4-4-0 Chassis with 9' driver spacing?

Started by Dorsetmike, August 03, 2020, 10:34:29 PM

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Dorsetmike

Does anyone know of a RTR 4 coupled chassis with drivers spaced 9'apart? I'm contemplating an ex LSWR Adams  4-4-0 (T3 or X6) if it has 6'7" driving wheels as well that would be a bonus. Not bothered about a motor, I'd be using a UM drive.
I've found where I stashed some Skinley drawings, as well as the X6 there are also T9, K10, 700, M7, and D15, 3 of which are now available RTR, plus a D15 "kit" is on the way from Worsley Works and I've already got a scratch built K10,so the Adams is next in line.
Cheers MIKE
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martyn

Mike;

The GER/LNER 'Clauds' had 7' drivers with nominally 8' coupled wheelbase.

However, I've just measured the driving wheelbase of the Union Mills model and its about 20-21mm.

Might be of use?

Martyn


Stevie DC

Quote from: Dorsetmike on August 03, 2020, 10:34:29 PM
Does anyone know of a RTR 4 coupled chassis with drivers spaced 9'apart? I'm contemplating an ex LSWR Adams  4-4-0 (T3 or X6) if it has 6'7" driving wheels as well that would be a bonus. Not bothered about a motor, I'd be using a UM drive.
I've found where I stashed some Skinley drawings, as well as the X6 there are also T9, K10, 700, M7, and D15, 3 of which are now available RTR, plus a D15 "kit" is on the way from Worsley Works and I've already got a scratch built K10,so the Adams is next in line.

Hi Mike,

The only things I can think of in N gauge with that wheelbase are the LNER six coupled locos. The Farish J39 and Farish/Dapol B1s have the correct spacing but will need chopping down to make into 4-4-0s. None of these have 6'7 wheels and the Farish B1 isn't split frame while the J39 and Dapol B1 are. Dapol A3 driving wheels should work with the Dapol B1. Jubilee/Scot wheels with the Farish B1 and maybe Fairburn tank wheels with the J39...

Dorsetmike

@martyn  a 9'wheelbase in N is about 18.5mm (9x2.0625) I have UM T9s, their 10' wheelbase is 20.625mm.

One way I thought of is to hack a UM T9, the wheelbase is set by grooves in the keeper plate, my plan of attack for that would be close one of the existing grooves with solder then cut a new groove (UM I believe are white metal so low temp solder should work) I would then need to lengthen the running plate and drop front and rear ends, shorten the smoke box, among other things!
Cheers MIKE
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How many roads must a man walk down ... ... ... ... ... before he knows he's lost!

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