What are you modelling?

Started by guest2, November 26, 2010, 09:20:15 AM

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Newportnobby

Hi Bullmastiff1 and welcome to the forum :wave:
Track is track, regardless of whether you operate DC or DCC. I know next to nothing about DCC but if you want lights on locos permanently on you'll need to ensure all the track is powered including sidings, loops etc.
I'm sure more expansive advice will be along shortly.

Bullmastiff1

Thank you all for your replys , could you please inform me  Is there any company making a Gresley n1 locomotive ready made.
Thanks in advance.


Bullmastiff1


Rockhopper

My layout is based somewhere in in the lower West Highlands, Mid to late 80's mainly.

I wanted to choose an area that could double up as the West Highland and north Northumberland as far as backscene/scenery goes.  This is to allow me to run either 80's WH diesels or disels/units typically seen in the North East of England in the late 80/early 90s.

watfordmet

I'm not modelling in any era. So far I've 2 pacers. Blue 35, Blue 66, Class 122 DMU, 2 x 20's (1 Blue and 1 railfreight run in pairs) Cornonation class, 57xx , Network 47, Network 50, and a 37.

I'm looking forward, to a 40, XC 170 and DCC fitted 153 plus a few others and one a LMS steam train, in memory of my father. He loved the LMS .

Bullmastiff1

Hi everyone I am starting to model again after a long time, I have bought a ready made track layout I would like to know what controller for twin tracks do i need and also the power clips and wires between controller and track, also would it be better to buy dcc than dc, can dc locos run on dcc controllers? many thanks in advance.Mick.

P.S - as you can tell, i am very new to forums. thank god for my daughter

Newportnobby

Heck Mick - so many questions in such a small post and there aren't easy answers to many of them.
Here's my contribution.............
If you plump for DC I'd suggest either a Gaugemaster twin track or Morley twin track controller. To power the rails either solder wires to the sides of the rails or use pre-soldered fishplates available from Peco and other sources. You cannot run DC locos with a DCC controller without fitting a chip to the loco unless it's 'DCC Fitted'. Whether it's better to go DC or DCC from the start is really a matter of choice. I know very little about DCC so will let others guide you

Bullmastiff1


Bullmastiff1

Hi what would be a good used n gauge controller to begin with double track.Thanks in advance .Mick.

crewearpley40

At £80 morleycontrollers.com Zero 2 , gaugemaster or a hammant morgan duette

Bullmastiff1

Hi all

I'm still quite new to this and was wondering if anybody could help.
How do you put n gague power clips on to an existing track without removing the actual track from the board?

I bought the board with existing power clips, but they do not work, so have removed them - am now looking to replace them.

Thank you all in advance.

Mick

37214

Quote from: Rockhopper on January 31, 2020, 08:57:55 AM
My layout is based somewhere in in the lower West Highlands, Mid to late 80's mainly.

I wanted to choose an area that could double up as the West Highland and north Northumberland as far as backscene/scenery goes.  This is to allow me to run either 80's WH diesels or disels/units typically seen in the North East of England in the late 80/early 90s.

Sounds very much like my own plans for a layout; mostly Class 37's and 26's with a few DMU's.

The Q

Just for something different,  I'm building a T84 radar to go on the layout, Just wondering if i could hide a wireless micro camera inside.  That would amuse the punters at a show..

DarrwestLU6

Quote from: Bullmastiff1 on March 10, 2020, 03:05:13 PM
Hi all

I'm still quite new to this and was wondering if anybody could help.
How do you put n gague power clips on to an existing track without removing the actual track from the board?

I bought the board with existing power clips, but they do not work, so have removed them - am now looking to replace them.

Thank you all in advance.

Mick

Hi Mick - sorry I missed this it was back in March - did you fix the problem? I was going to say for in situ track it's going to be tough to fit clips that will work reliably, your best bet is to solder power feeds on the outer edges of the rail then drill some holes and drop those feeds through the baseboard. But you do need a soldering iron, which you can pick up cheap. If that is not an option then the only other thing that I can think would be electrically sound would be to rig up a screw that tightens on the outside of the rail, but that would look very ugly. Wires would be much easier to hide.
Hogwarts to King's Cross - My layout under construction: http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=43358.msg536504#msg536504

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