Never mind the detail - what about the detail packs?

[Newportnobby]

My excuse for not fitting loco lamps or discs is I like to run varying trains with a wide variety of motive power, keeping to the prototype where possible. Some of the disc codes changed in 1969 but it doesn't affect my transition era. I might consider making some discs but would only affix them with Tacky Wax or something similar.

[martyn]

NPN;

I'm fortunate enough to have sufficient locos to enable me to have 'spares' for each type of train I run, eg express passenger, local passenger, various classes of freight.

I did try tacky wax when running the locos solely on my own layout, with some success, but when they get used for exhibitions, its impossible to avoid losing them. I accept that on occasion on exhibition use it does lead to the wrong headcode lamps, but I still try and get it right........I have also altered the 4-character diesel blind-type headcodes to depict various classes of trains. Most people wont notice or know........

Bob; I use gel superglue nearly all the while now when just needing a 'spot' of glue; I only use normal superglue if a long joint/seam is required.

Martyn

[Mustermark]

I'm not one to tot up the numbers of minute details (avoiding the 'derogatory term' to stay on the right side of NPN; I might be overweight, but call me 'chubster' in jest, it still has derogatory overtones and we ought to be a little sensitive to certain terms in our modelling world), but I do like to have details that only I know are there, such as signs in the subway of my station where no one will ever again be able to see them. Each to their own... preference or ability.

Although I agree that front vac pipes are not so noticeable from normal viewing distance, I do like to fit such details to some/many of my locos. I think that an out-of-scale rapido coupler is ugly on the front of my beautiful Dapol Western as it pulls my Blue Riband MkIs... so I pull it off. But there's no denying that it looks a little bare after that, so the bits bag comes out. And why not? If I can be bothered to spend an hour of my relaxation time getting frustrated by my ever-decreasing dexterity.

I use superglue gel that gives a little more time and control, having dry-fitted the part first to check no trimmimg is needed. But first I put a blob of blu-tak on the other end, so if it pings the carpet monsters can't eat it, but it's not in the way of the fitting.  It's a faff with fine tweezers and some very strong '2.5' reading glasses on top of my normal glasses.

My main peave is that the loco instructions never seem to include a simple diagram for what goes where, and I have to first spend an hour on t'internet trying to find a photo from the front with sufficient visibility and light (with the help of 'exposure' control in my photos app) to discern the positions of the various size/shapes of tiny plastic pipe.

But once it's done, there is a sense of satisfaction from a) the achievement; the triumph over the challenge of the minute task, and b) knowing that, with no ugly coupler, what isn't necessarily visible from 6 feet away actually matches the level of detail of the rest of the 'state-of-the-art' train.

[Jonas]

For me it's about making models look as realistic as my abilities permit so I always fit the supplied detail to one end and leave a Rapido on the other. It's always annoying when buying second hand to receive a loco with no detailing pack so I make sure to hoover up any spares I come across!

[Dr Al]

I always fit as many of the details as possible, those that will clash with couplings are modified where possible to clear, and only left off if they simply cannot be fitted due to a gross clash. Almost all detail bits on steam, and a fair few pipes on diesels can be fitted fine in this way. Often you can be shrewd about glue application - for instance on diesel beams, often the hole goes right through, so you can insert the part dry, and apply a larger dot of glue to the back side of the bufferbeam where it is invisible, leaving a pristine application on the visible side.

I do absolutely concur with theBrighton's comments before - though won't dredge up more - but it does look ridiculous when you see photos of locos with gaping holes in their bufferbeams where a coupling hook should be, and stranger and lacking consistency if it's on a loco that has had other work done to it like a repaint, weathering or the likes.

Even these small detail additions separate a loco from everyone elses - whilst some can be difficult to fit, that's part of the satisfaction of being a modeller, and doing stuff for yourself. If it is a real problem, consider getting someone else to batch fit the details to your models in blocks.

From the secondhand I've bought, it's clear the vast minority of folk bother to fit these - so those who do, keep it up!

Cheers,
Alan

[Farmer chap]

Totally agree with Dr Al in post 34.

Using a magnifying illuminated lamp makes all the difference in my limited ability to fit these parts.

Biggest problem I have is finding decent clear photos of the positioning but maybe that's part of the enjoyment and

a good way to waste time!!

Ian.

[Dr Al]

Biggest problem I have is finding decent clear photos of the positioning but maybe that's part of the enjoyment and

Flickr is a good online source - often their images aren't shown by Google image search. I've never not found a suitable reference photo on flickr for these kind of things.

Better to use period pics though rather than preserved as some preserved locos have additional air brake pipes fitted that weren't there originally.

Cheers,
Alan

[silly moo]

These last few posts with the useful advice have encouraged me to have another go at fitting some details.

You might be able to hear the swearing from Africa   :'(

[austinbob]

Maybe you're right. Might have a crack at it after my next eye test and new glasses.
I wonder how long it will take to fit details to 80 locos. Oh.. And the carpet monster would have a field day!!!
 

[LAandNQFan]

And the carpet monster would have a field day!!!

Starve the carpet monster by fitting little parts inside a large clear plastic bag.

On the subject of extra detail only I know about: I made a model of the old chapel in Pencader for Peter Blair's railway.  His widow donated it to Pencader for their museum - inside the old chapel!  When I visited the museum recently I astonished the curators by taking the roof off the chapel to reveal a fully fitted interior.  They had no idea, but now that the chapel has a model of itself inside itself, should I alter the model's interior to show a model of itself inside itself inside itself?

[port perran]

Reminds me of the model village in Bourton on Water (I think it is anyway) where there's a model of the model village, in a model village in the model village itself.

[lil chris]

You might be able to hear the swearing from Africa   :'(
[/quote]

Do not make the mistake I made then, I seem to recall I made a video and left some swearing on if you turned the sound up. I am presently trying to detail my union mills 3f i will see how it goes with my eyesight. Like the tip about blue tack, i might try that.

[Newportnobby]

And the carpet monster would have a field day!!!

Starve the carpet monster by fitting little parts inside a large clear plastic bag.

Tried that and nearly suffocated
Yeah - it's an old one but so am I

[dannyboy]

 

[scruff]

I like to see a C-37 with the plows fitted, in my mind it's what they should have
and if I fit the plow, and remove the front coupling, then why not fit the air pipes etc ?

BUT

that is my choice.
I have no less respect for someone who takes the loco out of the box and runs it, than for the 'rivet counter' who spends hours detailing their loco with every detail possible.

running trains is FUN, or at least IT SHOULD BE !

so if you want to take the loco / coach / wagon out of it's box and run it, and it gives YOU pleasure, that is fine by me.

so, please, give up on the derogatory comments, it's a hobby, for fun, and if you can't cope with that, then I feel sorry for you.

rant over

i added a few details to a class 37....

The ploughs took a bit of butchering as I wanted to keep both couplings..

Cheers
Mark