Weathering Track

[NeMo]

I've committed myself (and happily so) to Unitrack, am I right in thinking that the electronic points are electrofrog?..........and therefore can I weather the track with my airbrush without worrying about the blade contacts on the points?

Unitrack #4 points can be configured to either electrofrog or insulfrog depending on what you want. There are two screws underneath the point. One sets to electrofrog or not, the other sets to power routing or not (in other words, whether electricity is sent in the direction of the point or not). So they're quite flexible and sophisticated (but there is apparently a mistake on the mouldings, so be sure to read this PDF on the Kato website).

However, experience with paint and glue has taught me that these can seep into the plastic case, shorting wires and/or jamming mechanisms. So, before adding extra ballast (which I think improves the look) I carefully built up a sort of rim around the point using UHU glue, just enough to stop any seepage.

Airbrushing won't be a particular problem because electricity isn't directed through the moving rails but through wires in the body of the point. But paint can jam the mechanism, so I think it's still a good idea to use masking tape to cover any flexible or moving parts while airbrushing.

Cheers NeMo

[Chinahand]

I pre-weather my track using Halford's Grey Primer and wood dye. You can see the detailed method and the results in my layout thread here. http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=5831.135

[NeMo]

I pre-weather my track using Halford's Grey Primer and wood dye. You can see the detailed method and the results in my layout thread here. http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=5831.135

Looks really nice. I take it the wood dye is what's making the sleepers looking so dirty and greasy?

Cheers, NeMo

[Chinahand]

That's right NeMo and the grey primer shows through to highlight the grain and give that 'silvered' effect you get on old, weathered timber.

[silverfox]

Thanks NeMo and Chinahand,

The points I'm using are all #6 as I understand they are less prone to problems, but they are just metal covers underneath?

Regards

Jason

[NeMo]

The points I'm using are all #6 as I understand they are less prone to problems, but they are just metal covers underneath?

I don't know the answer to this; haven't used #6s.

Apart from a more gentle curve, yes, they are better in the sense that the moving part of point tucks into the rail better, so there's less risk of derailments. The #4 points are generally very good, but you may find one or two pieces of stock won't go through them (mostly older stock, to be honest, but in my case including both of my Dapol 9Fs).

But in other regards the #4s are newer and technically superior, having the option of electro- and insulfrog, and the option of power routing or not; the #6s are, it seems from reading the Unitrack site, all electrofrog and power-routing (so basically like a typical Peco electrofrog point, which may mean you'll need to use insulated fishplates to achieve certain things).

Cheers, NeMo

[silverfox]

Thanks NeMo,

My trackplan is fairly simple and insulfrog points would work ok, therefore hopefully the weathering should prove straight forward from a conductivity angle if the power is routed inside the points.

Cheers again

Jason

[EtchedPixels]

reading the Unitrack site[/url], all electrofrog and power-routing (so basically like a typical Peco electrofrog point, which may mean you'll need to use insulated fishplates to achieve certain things).

The need for insulated fishplates is mostly a Peco-ism. Most other vendors who provide electrofrog points also fit internal switching. The Kato ones, and Fleischmann both have internal switching so you can treat them just like insulfrog points. It's Kato, and the first rule of Kato products is "it just works".

[Bealman]

All of this is turning me into a Kato believer! But it's too late now!!  :'(

[NeMo]

It's Kato, and the first rule of Kato products is "it just works".

So Kato is the Mac of the model train world? Peco would be Windows (works great, often looks great, but may need some fiddling). What would Linux be then??? 

Cheers, NeMo

[Bealman]

Hornby Dublo 3 rail. 

[tutenkhamunsleeping]

What would Linux be then??? 

FastTrack in 2mm FS.  Almost there, but still needs a soldering iron 

And I'd put Peco down as CP/M

[Bealman]

 

Now you people are goin' back to the computer jargon I do understand. Can a Commodore 64 be bought on fleabay?

[NeMo]

Now you people are goin' back to the computer jargon I do understand. Can a Commodore 64 be bought on fleabay?

Apparently so. Just looked! And for surprisingly healthy prices -- £50 seems typical!

What would Linux be then??? 

FastTrack in 2mm FS.  Almost there, but still needs a soldering iron 
And I'd put Peco down as CP/M

Cheers, NeMo

[Bealman]

Cool... but I'll put me moderator's hat on here, let's get back to topic.

Weathering track!