Track expansion??

Started by bbdave, January 19, 2012, 03:39:40 PM

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jonclox

Quote from: Boosh on February 09, 2012, 12:02:15 PM


That's interesting Jon, having been a delivery driver taking glass to a company that fabricates uPVC windows, I think that getting a framework fabricated from PVC extrusion to your specification is definitely possible- it would just be a case of finding a local double glazing fabricator and talking to them.

It sounds like a good idea to me, PVC is a very stable material, although I'm not sure if it would bow over time under the weight of a layout?
I was thinking more of buying basic lengths of extrusion from them, cutting to shape and size then 'liquid' welding it together as plumbers weld water pipe joints. bracings etc could be added where needed in that case (maybe)
John A GOM personified
N Gauge can seriously damage your wealth.
Never force things. Just use a bigger hammer
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Ruleoneshire
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=17646.0
Re: Grainge & Hodder baseboards
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29659.0

polo2k

Quote from: newportnobby on February 09, 2012, 12:23:39 PM
Certainly food for thought :thumbsup: Just one drawback - getting the salesman out of your house after 5 hours ::)

Theres a knack to it. Eggs and ale before they arrive. 5 Hrs should be plenty of time to get things in motion
Cheers
-Ash-



The only way to guarantee failure, is not to try

kirky

Quote from: jonclox on February 09, 2012, 11:17:09 AM
This thread has got me thinking (a risky thing to do for me). Ive done no research but offer this idea to be thrashed about (if its worth it)
The threads thrown up the idea of using softboard 'plastic' etc instead of wood as a base the will remain 'stable' under various conditions as opposed to woods movements. Even allowing 'expansion gaps' where the boards join......presumably to absorb movements in the framework
So..........
Why not use 'plastic'/softboard etc on edge or 'plastic extrusion' as used in double glazing etc. as a basic framework to build it all on.
We know that fluids that 'weld' the 'plastics' together are available so would making baseboards like this be a way out out of the problem?
As I say Ive done no research into the idea but ask would that help us out of our problems?
Hi Jonclox
My mate decided he would try and build a baseboard using 'Forex' (this might not be the actual name but its as near as I can remember) which is a plastic that is used in creating signs by printing companies. We had a load of free off cuts that we tried to use. After he eventually found a glue that would weld the sheets end on (I think it was 10 mm thick) he made an 'egg box' construction with single unsupported spans of a 300 mm max length,which basically means it was made into foot square sections. But even with such a short section, it was nothing like rigid, it very wobbly, and although it could have been much stiffer with a top board on, for open board construction, completely unsuitable, in my opinion anyway.
Having said all of that, this was plain board,(imagine a piece of very thick plasticard).This would not be the same in any way with an extruded section ofplastic, which I imagine would be much stiffer.
We no longer have the sample as it got dumped in the club move last year, so no photos I'm afraid.

Cheers
Kirky
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Bikeracer

Some window and door extrusions are also reinforced with either a steel or aluminium insert,uPVC window frames are welded together and I think getting a joint accurate enough for glue to work might be a problem,plus plastic expands and contracts more than wood.It obviously doesn't absorb moisture but it is less stable temperature wise than wood.



Allan
I'm not a complete idiot..some bits are missing.

jonclox

Quote from: Bikeracer on February 12, 2012, 07:23:49 AM
Some window and door extrusions are also reinforced with either a steel or aluminium insert,uPVC window frames are welded together and I think getting a joint accurate enough for glue to work might be a problem,plus plastic expands and contracts more than wood.It obviously doesn't absorb moisture but it is less stable temperature wise than wood.
Allan
Fair points especially the point about it expanding a large amount.
Never mind it was just an idea from me
John A GOM personified
N Gauge can seriously damage your wealth.
Never force things. Just use a bigger hammer
Electronically and spelling dyslexic 
Ruleoneshire
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=17646.0
Re: Grainge & Hodder baseboards
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29659.0

polo2k

nickle silver framed boards anyone? ;)
Cheers
-Ash-



The only way to guarantee failure, is not to try

jonclox

Quote from: polo2k on February 13, 2012, 06:21:31 PM
nickle silver framed boards anyone? ;)
Hall marked stirling silver would be classier than nickle silver  :thumbsup:
John A GOM personified
N Gauge can seriously damage your wealth.
Never force things. Just use a bigger hammer
Electronically and spelling dyslexic 
Ruleoneshire
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=17646.0
Re: Grainge & Hodder baseboards
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29659.0

polo2k

still an expansion differential though, unless you use stirling silver rails!
Cheers
-Ash-



The only way to guarantee failure, is not to try

jonclox

Quote from: polo2k on February 14, 2012, 12:03:21 AM
still an expansion differential though, unless you use stirling silver rails!
Well would that be wrong?
John A GOM personified
N Gauge can seriously damage your wealth.
Never force things. Just use a bigger hammer
Electronically and spelling dyslexic 
Ruleoneshire
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=17646.0
Re: Grainge & Hodder baseboards
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29659.0

polo2k

Quote from: jonclox on February 14, 2012, 09:15:41 AM
Quote from: polo2k on February 14, 2012, 12:03:21 AM
still an expansion differential though, unless you use stirling silver rails!
Well would that be wrong?


... after you
Cheers
-Ash-



The only way to guarantee failure, is not to try

Flakmunky

You are all looking at this the wrong way round... Rather than ever more fanciful construction techniques, you need to stabilise the environment your layout is in with heating / ventilation / air conditioning depending on where the layout is located.

The best place for your layout is indoors, in the spare room, a short distance from the tea making facilities. :)


EtchedPixels

Quote from: Flakmunky on February 26, 2012, 08:17:26 AM
You are all looking at this the wrong way round... Rather than ever more fanciful construction techniques, you need to stabilise the environment your layout is in with heating / ventilation / air conditioning depending on where the layout is located.

And then when the power goes off one day or the boiler fails, or the aircon goes pop your layout breaks.

I think I prefer to allow for a bit of contraction of the wood thank you 8)
"Knowledge has no value or use for the solitary owner: to be enjoyed it must be communicated" -- Charles Pratt, 1st Earl Camden

Flakmunky

#42
EP - I was joking re aircon...

But seriously, in your spare room I don't think you need to worry too much about expansion... Even if your boiler does break down!

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