Never mind the detail - what about the detail packs?

[bluedepot]

i fit the detail parts on about half the locos i have

some i leave with functional couplings at both ends for shunting purposes though

even if you just fit a few of the details and remove the coupling at one end it looks really good i think

if i can't fit all the detail parts after a few attempts i just leave them off

i've just added a snow plough to my class 33 and 27 as well

i don't have great eye sight and it can be frustrating.  a pin vice and small pliers have helped me - as well as a good light.  like everyone else i have lost some bits on the floor.

it's true that from normal viewing distance you can't really see the detail parts - but removing the coupling at the front end does make a difference.


tim

[Portpatrick]

I never put the details on.  Too fiddly for my eyes and clumsy fingers.  Too fragile once on - as in my view are some of the details factory fitted, especially when the items are handled at exhibitions .  And I really doubt how many are actually visible at normal viewing distances, whether at home or at exhibitions. But to those who can cope with them and are happy to make the effort, I salute you.

[railsquid]

I already have a little baggie of unidentified parts I've found around the layout which have fallen off non-modified stock somehow, so in no hurry to increase the potential supply. My priorities are constructing the layout and making sure the trains run (have a backlog of basis maintenance to work through before I worry about details...) But it's nice that the option is there for those who want it.

[railsquid]

I haven't even the nerve to glue the number plates on the Japanese locomotives I've acquired!

Having made a right mess on the side of one Japanese loco with plastic glue, I realised it would be better to use something else in future, probably tiny dabs of a locally-available PVA-like glue which would be enough to hold them in place but can be peeled off if it overflows, and allows later removal of the plates (which usually clip in place).

Applying number transfers (mainly a preserve of Tomix coaches and multiple units) is something I also haven't got round to doing...

[thebrighton]

No need to be so touchy.
It was said in jest but if it provokes a bit of debate then so be it.
Happy New Year to all including the rivet counters.

I am not being touchy, you are being insulting with your derogatory comment which you are continuing with. So you feel that is a satisfactory method to provoke debate? You may find it funny but I am sick of people using that phrase just because someone decides to take their modelling to the next level.
If you want to take something out of its box and run it that is fine and I am sure you get as much enjoyment out of it as I do scratch building etc. I just don't understand why you feel the need to poke fun as I certainly wouldn't.
I won't be bothering with this thread anymore so feel free to come back to justify your comments with further 'rivet' digs, I just won't waste time reading them.

[Skyline2uk]

I haven't even the nerve to glue the number plates on the Japanese locomotives I've acquired!

Having made a right mess on the side of one Japanese loco with plastic glue, I realised it would be better to use something else in future, probably tiny dabs of a locally-available PVA-like glue which would be enough to hold them in place but can be peeled off if it overflows, and allows later removal of the plates (which usually clip in place).

Applying number transfers (mainly a preserve of Tomix coaches and multiple units) is something I also haven't got round to doing...

Currently writing up how I do this, but my preferred glue for plates is Delux Materials Glue-N-Glaze

Gives working time before it sets and dries clear, excess can be removed with a cocktail stick.

Skyline2uk

[Newportnobby]

Let's just drop the 'rivet counter' please. It's not a term I am comfortable with but am also not happy to delete the posts for and against as some would consider it OTT moderation.
Any further posts containing the phrase will be deleted if I see them or they are pointed out to me.

[signalman1]

Let's just drop the 'rivet counter' please. It's not a term I am comfortable with but am also not happy to delete the posts for and against as some would consider it OTT moderation.
Any further posts containing the phrase will be deleted if I see them or they are pointed out to me.

Here Here big nobby, No need for pidgeon holeing on forums, 

[guest311]

I like to see a C-37 with the plows fitted, in my mind it's what they should have
and if I fit the plow, and remove the front coupling, then why not fit the air pipes etc ?

BUT

that is my choice.
I have no less respect for someone who takes the loco out of the box and runs it, than for the 'rivet counter' who spends hours detailing their loco with every detail possible.

running trains is FUN, or at least IT SHOULD BE !

so if you want to take the loco / coach / wagon out of it's box and run it, and it gives YOU pleasure, that is fine by me.

so, please, give up on the derogatory comments, it's a hobby, for fun, and if you can't cope with that, then I feel sorry for you.

rant over

[daffy]

I too am quite happy to dispense with the fitting of detail parts. Big hands and poor eyes make poor tools for such work. And as for rivets, well, I don't count 'em cos I can't see 'em!

But I have tremendous admiration for anyone who can add all the little details without making a mess like I would do.

[martyn]

For those of you who want Southern discs for headcodes, these are available from BH Enterprises as an etch; I use gel superglue to attach them to lamp irons (for my ER GE section steam!).

Prime with white primer, and job sussed; but it can be a bit fiddly getting them in place and square to the buffer beam.

Martyn

[austinbob]

Just out of interest Martyn, how much wiggle time do you have before that superglue sets?

[martyn]

Hi Bob;

About 20 seconds, which I find enough; hold the disc with tweezers, add a dab of glue with a pointed stick; place against the lamp iron, and there is enough time to get it straight. I also use this (gel) for fitting the loco pipes, steam and diesel, discussed in earlier posts; I do like fitting these, even though it means we have to turn locos on the table at James St after running in on a service; it also means the coupler is removed at the piped end.

If fitting headlamps, if possible, I drill the bottom and gel glue on to the lamp irons. Gel glue is useful in as much as it doesn't run by capillary action and get onto fingers and glue them to the model  See some photos of James St for the results (my locos are the one with headlamps/discs).

I like detailing locos and stock, but I'm useless at scenery.........

HTH

Martyn

[BramptonBranch]

Well in my humble opinion if you can count rivets in n gauge I envy your eyesight!!!!

Is pizza cutter wheels an offensive term? I prefer Old style..

[ten0G]

Until I have a layout, I don't know how much radius-restricted detail I can fit to my locos, and until I have decided on my rakes of coaches, I have refrained from fitting any details to them as well. 

Suffice it to say that once I have a working layout, I will try to fit the ever-growing mountain of detail packs ... eventually, depending on how well I can see by then!   

But generally, I appreciate a much detail as is possible.  The acquisition of some Union Mills locos in the future may require some extra attention when they arrive.