Wood glue instead of nails/screws?

[Grassyfield]

Just thinking of using some thing like a strong wood glue for the framing underneath the baseboard to stop it warping and to have space underneath for every thing. Looks like some good glues out there just wondering what you all think.

[Bigmac]

yep--what i did.  In fact--no wood at all--just 9mm ply board and strips left over cut to make battens. glued together with a few short screws to hold till fully hardened.  Then remove screws and re-use.

Good glue is tougher than the ply.

[Bazza]

Just thinking of using some thing like a strong wood glue for the framing underneath the baseboard to stop it warping and to have space underneath for every thing. Looks like some good glues out there just wondering what you all think.

I'd recommend gluing and screwing. These days you can get screws that don't need a pilot hole and self countersink. They take seconds to drive home with a power driver.

[ntpntpntp]

I mostly glue and screw as that's what I was taught as a kid in the 70s, but a lot of the time gluing alone would be perfectly sufficient.  When I'm working on larger baseboard builds I often run out of clamps so using screws after gluing holds it together and I can use the clamps for the next joint

I've never liked using simple nails.

[dannyboy]

I have to admit that I am a 'gluer and screwer'. 

[Grassyfield]

Interesting. I guess ill screw and glue. I was going to just use screws at first so glad i asked.

With the self countersinking screws is tehre any particular technique to getting it in?. And if im using normal screws how do you go about doing the pilot hole, do you 2 sizes? and is it important to make it the same lengeth as screw or just some of the length and the screw will do the rest?.

Do you think Gorilla aliphatic pva wood glue is good enough?. Thank you very much!

[emjaybee]

ALWAYS glue & screw.

Don't EVER use 'No More Nails'.

[emjaybee]

Interesting. I guess ill screw and glue. I was going to just use screws at first so glad i asked.

With the self countersinking screws is tehre any particular technique to getting it in?. And if im using normal screws how do you go about doing the pilot hole, do you 2 sizes? and is it important to make it the same lengeth as screw or just some of the length and the screw will do the rest?.

Do you think Gorilla aliphatic pva wood glue is good enough?. Thank you very much!

If you use Spax, Reisser Cutter, or similar screws, you'll save a lot of time.

If going through MDF, ALWAYS pilot drill & countersink. Through 5-12mm ply, just drive in.

I usually go 20mm longer than the ply I'm going through, unless going into end grain, then I'd go 30mm longer. Screw sizes 3, 3.5 or 4 at a push (modern sizes, rather than traditional screw sizing).

[ntpntpntp]

Interesting. I guess ill screw and glue. I was going to just use screws at first so glad i asked.

A problem with only using screws is joints may twist a little.  Make sure you have suitable clamps to apply pressure to the glued joint and hold the alignment while you drill and fit the screws. 

I use mitre clamps like these, which are good for forming right angles and also for clamping ply to battens.  Avoid really cheap clamps (I've seen versions where the screw thread is too large and fouls the wood), invest in decent quality tools.

https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-mitre-clamp-75mm-104862



Bar clamps are also useful
https://www.amazon.co.uk/WORKPRO-Quick-Release-Woodworking-Woodworker-Metalworker/dp/B0932WDQ9Z

if im using normal screws how do you go about doing the pilot hole, do you 2 sizes? and is it important to make it the same length as screw or just some of the length and the screw will do the rest?.

For long screws between two thick pieces of wood I'll try and use 2 sizes of pilot hole: all the way in with a bit the same size as the core of the screw (leaving material for the thread to bite); a second larger size hole (same size as the screw thread) into the first piece only.  Finally I use a countersink bit before screwing in.  If the screw is into the face of ply siding I countersink enough so the screw is below the surface and can be covered with filler before painting.

Do you think Gorilla aliphatic pva wood glue is good enough?.

I normally use "own brand" PVA wood glue from a DIY store (I use the same stuff diluted down for ballasting and scenery), but my son picked up a tube of Gorilla wood glue for his project and I "borrowed" some a few times.  It was good stuff

[Bealman]

All good advice (another glue & screw man) 

[The Q]

Gorilla glues are a good premium brand. But generally I use 5 ltr containers of Screwfix PVA. Properly clamped up while setting, it will rip off the top surface of plywood, rather than fail itself.

When attaching wood to ply I normally glue and screw. But the current baseboards I cut from ply with a mini jigsaw, in the format like laser cut tongue and slot boards they are all PVA glued.

The back scenes are integral to the baseboards and are part  of the carrying case, they have triangular wooden corner inserts for strength, just glued and clamped.

The leg hinges have wooden backers so are screwed through the ply to the wood, while the PVA was still wet, the backers were clamped at the same time.

Oh I designed and built a 16ft plywood sailing boat, no screws, just tongue and slot, all joints were just glued and clamped. Admittedly with epoxy glue, but it still depends the glue attaching to the surface of the ply. Been racing that for 25 summer Sundays a year for 3 years now.

[RBTKraisee]

My recent cabinet was entirely 12mm ply and I prefer the ol' pilot-hole approach before screwing everything together. I *will* glue it all together whenever I finish making modifications, but right now I can still use it even without the glue.

I also got a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig for a few joins and I'm SERIOUSLY impressed with how easy it is to use, and how good a job it did even in my inexperienced hands. I had a difficult edge joint on the rear wall of my cabinet that I would never have attempted without the Kreg! Here:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kreg-KPHJ320-Pocket-Hole-Jig-320/dp/B07VQ9S57K/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2GLW9WEKT1QVT&keywords=kreg%2Bpocket%2Bhole%2Bjig&qid=1703209991&sprefix=kreg%2Bpocket%2Bhol%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-6&th=1

Best of British with your project and Merry Christmas!

Ross.

[Grassyfield]

Thanks guys, appreciate the advice very much. Merry Christmas all.

[JasonBz]

Interesting. I guess ill screw and glue. I was going to just use screws at first so glad i asked.

With the self countersinking screws is tehre any particular technique to getting it in?. And if im using normal screws how do you go about doing the pilot hole, do you 2 sizes? and is it important to make it the same lengeth as screw or just some of the length and the screw will do the rest?.

Do you think Gorilla aliphatic pva wood glue is good enough?. Thank you very much!

If you want to countersink the screws you can get yourself a countersinking pilot hole drill specially for that task, they are not very expensive.
Gorilla glue is pretty good, but Titebond is better.

[Grassyfield]

Iv finished it. Been almost 24 hours so im thinking should be ok to move around now even though its says 24-48 hours utill its completely hard. I tried using self driving screws at first, and yeah all i can say is self driving my ass in regards to these particular screws i was sweating so much trying to get them in the wood. Any way quickly made pilot holes as quick as i could and got the screws in, although they are not completely flat with the surface.