Engine Running In And Keeping Them In Good Order

Started by UPINSMOKE, February 14, 2015, 11:24:03 PM

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UPINSMOKE

I have several new engines and a couple of s/h ones to run on my layout. Just wondering how long all of you run the engines for and any other tips you may have for keeping them in good order. I think I read somewhere to run them 1/2 hour in each direction.

But would be interested to know your views please.
Growing old is mandatory, Growing up is optional

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DELETED

#1
I always check mechs for debris, add a tiny bit of oil, run slow speed for about 10mins each way then about 20 mins at good speed after that. I have only a circle test track, every 30-40 mins or so I pick up loco (re-check), turn it around and repeat.   I usually plug in an ammeter after about 10 mins (takes me that long to find it LoL).  I'm done after about 2.5 hours.  A good loco works straight off every time IMO, a rough one is still rough after an hour -I usually see it as 2h off my locos' lifespan, but proves a point.

...My locos are in a  display case, I pick a different one each week or so and run it for half an hour each way.  I've had them seize up before if I leave it 6 months.

oreamnos

Rule of thumb is that if something runs well as soon as you take it out of the box when new, it will continue to.  When I buy something I oil it slightly and run it for at least half an hour in both directions around a small tail chaser with 8.5" Kato Unitrack "Compact" curves and when I change direction I do that buy turning the loco around on the track, not running in reverse.  This gives the bogies and gears a chance to mesh with the bogies turning in the opposite direction compared to when run the other way round and also might shine light on problems not evident earlier.

I try to just grab a few things out of my collection and run then for a while each weekend.  I suspect that means everything gets run for a little bit every few months.  Every now and then this turns up minor gremlins, which are a surprise because I don't put anything away back in its box unless it is running well - or if it's not, with a note in the box telling me what the problem was.

Biggest thing to keep in mind is that the enemy of good is better.  It wasn't easy for me to learn!  Got a loco that has a minor little running quirk but otherwise is perfect?  Let it be.  Unless it is truly a fix that is obvious and well within my skills, I've finally learned to just live with truly minor niggles.  This is after writing off several locos I wrecked (usually because of clumsiness) while trying to get them to run just a tiny bit better.  I guess at least I have a spare parts bin because of these "efforts."

Matt

DesertHound

#3
Wise words from Matt there. The run in times suggested above seem reasonable to me.

As for "gremlins" and getting locos to run better, it all comes down to your levels of confidence and willingness to investigate. As Matt says, you can make things worse and I guess it's a case of "how much worse do you want to make them before you make them better?"

If I had spent 100 quid on a new super detailed loco I'd be reticent to fiddle with it. Being only interested in Poole stock I'll strip them down for fun, even for the most minor of squeaks, but then that's my hobby. I'd err on the side of caution with newer start and if you want to get your hands dirty stuff off with an old cheapo  ;D

Edited to add that if something really doesn't sound right when you're running it in then just as likely it won't improve with running in, but might actually become worse. Use your judgement to decide whether it should be run further or not. Running in with a problem can lead to other problems.

Dan
Visit www.thefarishshed.com for all things Poole Farish and have the confidence to look under the bonnet of your locos!

Newportnobby

I reckon running in and physically turning round the loco part way through the process is important. It's why some folks have built a figure of eight testbed track.
I've also found that some Dapol locos can be horribly noisy at first but then quieten down but after a 'huge' amount of running i.e. anything between 2 and 4 hours :o

DesertHound

Quote from: newportnobby on February 15, 2015, 11:31:42 AM
I reckon running in and physically turning round the loco part way through the process is important. It's why some folks have built a figure of eight testbed track.
I've also found that some Dapol locos can be horribly noisy at first but then quieten down but after a 'huge' amount of running i.e. anything between 2 and 4 hours :o

Wasn't it your test track Mick that had the locos also running upside down and through an IPA bath?  :laughabovepost:
Visit www.thefarishshed.com for all things Poole Farish and have the confidence to look under the bonnet of your locos!

Newportnobby

Quote from: DesertHound on February 15, 2015, 11:39:06 AM
Quote from: newportnobby on February 15, 2015, 11:31:42 AM
I reckon running in and physically turning round the loco part way through the process is important. It's why some folks have built a figure of eight testbed track.
I've also found that some Dapol locos can be horribly noisy at first but then quieten down but after a 'huge' amount of running i.e. anything between 2 and 4 hours :o

Wasn't it your test track Mick that had the locos also running upside down and through an IPA bath?  :laughabovepost:

That was Bealman in the Southern Hemisphere, and the worrying thing was his IPA was actually Indian Pale Ale :-X

Les1952

I would echo any statement saying "run them regularly".

I've been getting the trains sorted out for Hawthorn Dene at two forthcoming shows and have found that locos which have lurked in the stockbox since September, and in some cases longer if not needed, have suffered a tendency for lubricant to turn to cheese, or something of similar consistency.

In future everything will get a refresher of about 5 to 10 mins on the test track every three months or so.....

All the very best
Les

jonclox

Quote from: newportnobby on February 15, 2015, 11:31:42 AM
I reckon running in and physically turning round the loco part way through the process is important. It's why some folks have built a figure of eight testbed track.
I've also found that some Dapol locos can be horribly noisy at first but then quieten down but after a 'huge' amount of running i.e. anything between 2 and 4 hours :o
:-[ Guilty as charged regarding a figure of 8 running in board. See
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=25607.0
The idea being that running stresses are imposed on any loco on every curve and alternatively.
I had hoped to have it fully up and in use by now but ill health has got in the way.
Buying a loco for an unbuilt layout and just keeping it in its box for months/years seems a total waste. Every one needs to be regularly even if only for a short time just to keep lubricants in any form of good order. I do wish at times that I would follow my own advice given here but I am prepared to clean through and re lubricate any long term stored loco before running it  :-[
John A GOM personified
N Gauge can seriously damage your wealth.
Never force things. Just use a bigger hammer
Electronically and spelling dyslexic 
Ruleoneshire
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=17646.0
Re: Grainge & Hodder baseboards
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29659.0

Newportnobby

Over lubrication can be as bad as under lubrication IMHO.
Buying a loco for an unbuilt layout and keeping it in its box for months/years is, to me, no different from purchasing a loco a dealer has had for years and then running it. This is providing, of course, that any running in/lubing instructions are followed as the transit grease (if used by the manufacturer) will still be in the loco.

UPINSMOKE

Hi thanks for the good advice all taken on board :thumbsup:

I have just been running in a Graham Farish Class 14 Diesel Shunter as per all instructions turning the engine round etc. But it all started really well and all seemed ok.

Running it with a few wagons tonight, and after about 1/2 hour of running in several direction it developed a high scream is all I can describe it as  :o :'(. I immediately stopped it and let it rest for a while, but now every time I try to run it the screaming starts again. Any suggestions on what may be the cause please .

I have noticed there seems to be perhaps something loose inside as I was inspecting it I could hear something moving around. Cannot investigate further as do not have any screwdrivers small enough as yet. Can anyone recommend a good set of screwdrivers I could get please or a link to such things.
Growing old is mandatory, Growing up is optional

Layout Southern Comfort - In-Progress:
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=23145.0


RussellH

Probably the motor bearing needing a tiny drop of oil.

http://www.bachmann.co.uk/pdfs/GF_Cl_14.pdf
shows how it comes to bits.

Apply a tiny drop of oil to the motor bearing adjacent to the worm gear and check before reassembly.

Iv seen cheapo set of jewellers screwdrivers in pound shops or ebay and search jewellers screwdrivers

something like this....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6pcs-Precision-jewellers-watch-screwdriver-mini-micro-set-laptop-mobile-glasses-/331467595844

Regards
Russ
Repairs - not everything has to be sent away - you can fix most thing's yourself. Ask and help will be provided.

Waiting for the RTR version? - why not try a kit?

My layout, Bridgebury Gate now has its own website...
www.bridgeburygate.com

and the 3DR shop where you'll also find the NGF MPV, assorted cabs etc...
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/3dr_designs_for_n_gauge

UPINSMOKE

Quote from: RussellH on February 18, 2015, 02:30:14 AM
Probably the motor bearing needing a tiny drop of oil.

http://www.bachmann.co.uk/pdfs/GF_Cl_14.pdf
shows how it comes to bits.

Apply a tiny drop of oil to the motor bearing adjacent to the worm gear and check before reassembly.

Iv seen cheapo set of jewellers screwdrivers in pound shops or ebay and search jewellers screwdrivers

something like this....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6pcs-Precision-jewellers-watch-screwdriver-mini-micro-set-laptop-mobile-glasses-/331467595844

Regards
Russ

Thanks Russ for the links I have ordered a set hopefully get them for the weekend. I would also like to thank everyone else for their useful advice. I do really like the forum for all the good advice that is given.
Growing old is mandatory, Growing up is optional

Layout Southern Comfort - In-Progress:
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=23145.0


Webbo

Here's my two bits worth on this issue.

Last June I purchased a newly released Farish class 55 (Pinza), but didn't get round to running it in until some months later. The loco ran beautifully at first, then after 15 minutes suddenly stopped. Got it going each time by switching power on and off, but the situation rapidly deteriorated. Back to Osborns it went. The replacement has run quietly and smoothly for my 2 hour running in period so the replacement loco appears to be fine. (The loco really is a little gem)

The point is that if I had left the dud in its box until my railway was complete, the year-long warranty period would have expired and no replacement would have been possible. So the running in period is essentially also a period when faults can be uncovered before it is too late for redress.

On the issue of leaving stuff in boxes for years without running, Mike Fifer has a few words on this issue:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlcdWhe6hn4

He tells us that over time a component in the grease evaporates leaving what he calls a wax-like substance which gums things up. Les1952 refers to this stuff as being like cheese. Sounds very believable to me.

When I run Mikes video, I get an ad at the beginning that eats into his presentation. But I can see all of it by rewinding the Youtube using the slidebar along the bottom. Does anyone know how to get rid of the ads that sometimes pop up on Youtube?

Ian

railsquid

Quote from: Webbo on February 19, 2015, 12:47:41 AM
The point is that if I had left the dud in its box until my railway was complete, the year-long warranty period would have expired and no replacement would have been possible. So the running in period is essentially also a period when faults can be uncovered before it is too late for redress.

This happened to me with a new loco I picked up when I was in Europe last year - it ran fine in the shop, but after I finally got home it did 10 laps of the track then stopped. Idiotically I lost the proof of purchase somewhere on my travels, but thanks to this forum was eventually able to diagnose the problem - defective motor - and source a new motor at about the same it would have cost me to send it back anyway.

Quote from: Webbo on February 19, 2015, 12:47:41 AMOn the issue of leaving stuff in boxes for years without running, Mike Fifer has a few words on this issue:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlcdWhe6hn4

He tells us that over time a component in the grease evaporates leaving what he calls a wax-like substance which gums things up. Les1952 refers to this stuff as being like cheese. Sounds very believable to me.

When I run Mikes video, I get an ad at the beginning that eats into his presentation. But I can see all of it by rewinding the Youtube using the slidebar along the bottom. Does anyone know how to get rid of the ads that sometimes pop up on Youtube?
There should be a little "X" at the top right of the ad - click on it and it will minimise.

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