what are people doing on their layout right now

Started by B1 61126, August 16, 2011, 07:59:35 PM

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Kevin R

Bought my first loco, dcc controller and track last week now planning my base boards so that they can be demountable

Dorsetmike

I've got to the stage of hunting down shorts and bad rail joins on my new layout. Does anybody else have trouble with Peco rail joiners, I'm wondering if Xuron cutters maybe distort or otherwise make fitting joiners a PITA. I've started to chamfer the rail ends a bit with the disc in the minidrill.
As things progress on the layout I keep getting "new ideas" to alter the original plan, I've figured out where I can use a scissors, (yeah I know it'll be a pig to wire up)
I wish the Kato turntable was a little smaller, it tends to make a 2 or 3 road shed  look ridiculous, but it's motorised with it's own controller.
Cheers MIKE
[smg id=6583]


How many roads must a man walk down ... ... ... ... ... before he knows he's lost!

KevTheBusDriver

Quote from: Dorsetmike on December 10, 2020, 07:24:40 PM
I've got to the stage of hunting down shorts and bad rail joins on my new layout. Does anybody else have trouble with Peco rail joiners, I'm wondering if Xuron cutters maybe distort or otherwise make fitting joiners a PITA. I've started to chamfer the rail ends a bit with the disc in the minidrill.
As things progress on the layout I keep getting "new ideas" to alter the original plan, I've figured out where I can use a scissors, (yeah I know it'll be a pig to wire up)
I wish the Kato turntable was a little smaller, it tends to make a 2 or 3 road shed  look ridiculous, but it's motorised with it's own controller.
Peco rail ends: I always use a swiss file to chamfer ALL parts of the rail ends (bottom, top, sides) and usually don't have much trouble. I personally wouldn't like the idea of a disc in a minidrill - far too risky! Take care!

KevTheBusDriver

The block of flats is more-or-less there...

This is a model of Booth House, Teddesley St Walsall, named after William Booth (Salvation Army). Erected circa 1968, it was demolished in about 2008. I delivered papers to it in the 70s! Similar blocks still exist in the Walsall area. An identical called O'Hare house was next to it but I don't have space on the layout for that one!

Greygreaser

Quote from: Dorsetmike on December 10, 2020, 07:24:40 PM
I've got to the stage of hunting down shorts and bad rail joins on my new layout. Does anybody else have trouble with Peco rail joiners, I'm wondering if Xuron cutters maybe distort or otherwise make fitting joiners a PITA. I've started to chamfer the rail ends a bit with the disc in the minidrill.
As things progress on the layout I keep getting "new ideas" to alter the original plan, I've figured out where I can use a scissors, (yeah I know it'll be a pig to wire up)
I wish the Kato turntable was a little smaller, it tends to make a 2 or 3 road shed  look ridiculous, but it's motorised with it's own controller.
Mike I bought a number of pieces from Station Road Baseboards and I'm pretty sure they do a turntable and components you can make your own to suit your space/layout. Somewhere I've seen a motor too for driving the tt electrically.
You're scaring me with the rail joiner issues as I've bought a load of Peco ones 🥴🥴🥴
Trying to send a few picks of the point work attempts





A jack of all trades is a master of none, but often times better than a master of one.

manicmick

Is the problem with Peco rail joiners that they fit Streamline track but if you are using older rails, they do not fit. I have just been using some old track for some sidings and have had the same problem
Mickl

Dorsetmike

@manicmick  that sounds like a strong possibility; I've had some success with opening out the "jaws"with one of those pins with multicoloured heads they use for noticeboards etc, sometimes works sometimes doesn't. I've also managed a few times to align rails and then solder with no joiners.
Cheers MIKE
[smg id=6583]


How many roads must a man walk down ... ... ... ... ... before he knows he's lost!

manicmick

I also resorted to a soldering iron. The height of the 2 types of rail differs slightly and I have used solder to even these out
Mick

joe cassidy


Newportnobby

Peco SL-310 rail joiners fit code 80 (set track and streamline) and code 55 track. I suggest if you do open them up slightly to fit then crimp them afterwards with pliers.

Dorsetmike

Not only do I crimp them when I get them on, I also solder them on the outer side
Cheers MIKE
[smg id=6583]


How many roads must a man walk down ... ... ... ... ... before he knows he's lost!

Greygreaser

Looks like I sent the same pic twice - it was my birthday this week😊😩
Here's the third bit

A jack of all trades is a master of none, but often times better than a master of one.

talisman56

Quote from: Newportnobby on December 11, 2020, 12:25:09 PM
Peco SL-310 rail joiners fit code 80 (set track and streamline) and code 55 track. I suggest if you do open them up slightly to fit then crimp them afterwards with pliers.

Yes they fit, but although the heights of the tracks are OK, in my experience the undersides are at a different level. I need to put a shim underneath the code 55 to make everything straight and level...
Quando omni flunkus moritati

My layout thread - Hambleside East: http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=18364.0
My workbench thread: http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=19037


Bad Raven

Quote from: Newportnobby on December 12, 2020, 02:52:19 PM
I don't mix track codes :no:

I usually don't have much choice, for example, having a dock area means minimum Setrack radius mixed with the more prevalent Finescale track and larger radii.

Incidentally, I modify all my Setrack min radius turnouts to reduce the insulfrog distance.  I pull out the two rails from the plastic frog, create slots to a point at the frog, cut and grind/file two new rails to a correct angle join and slide them back in all the way into th eextended slot till they meet.  Greatly improves the running of small (dock) tanks over them.

Today?  I printed a Loco body and opened out its inside (plastic is much easier than diecast metal).  I now have room for a small Zimo 616 decoder, stay alive and a couple of Tantalums on the tiny Minitrix chassis.   Yes, it'll be a fair bit lighter, but all I need is the ability to pull a pair or so wagons at once for some road running into the DC docks border (an "exchange" track section that will be switchable DC/DCC), and out onto the DCC tramway.
Dave

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