Bodgers and fiddlers

[dodger]

Whilst I run about 90% ready to run. Kit building is confined to plastic or whitemetal loco and rolling stock bodies, certainly not brass of scratch building. I even converted a Langley class 4 4-6-0  to fit on a Poole 2-6-4T chassis to make a Class 4 2-6-0 at a time when nothing else was available. Some Poole built stock has been repainted as the livery I wanted was not available  at the time.

My first interest and probably the reason I still have a model railway is designing and building my own control systems including track circuits, train stops and automatic operation including points and signals.

I therefore consider myself as a modeller and not a trainset operator.

Dodger

[DesertHound]

Dodger, you said ...

I therefore consider myself as a modeller and not a trainset operator.


I think as long as you enjoy whatever it is you get from the hobby, it doesn't really matter what you are categorised as. Even if people are just train operators, that's fine too. Like I said before, a train operator could turn into a modeller, or a track designer one day etc.

I'm too not really a modeller, but someone who loves repairing old Poole locos. It's great I think that this hobby (like many others I guess) is open to whatever you want to get out if it.

Cheers

Dan

[Stevie DC]

Back when I started modelling in N gauge, I had a go at scratch building my own loco bodies using a variety of materials, metal, plastic and even cardboard (actually my most successful scratch builds were in card) as there isn't a great range of rtr for the 1930's LNER modeller. However, shortly after this Farish released it's new V2 and the new standard was set was far above my own modelling abilities.

Personally, I like to try and keep everything to a similar standard so for a time I didn't do any modelling. Then I read about 3D printing and spent some time learning CAD and waiting for printing to catch up with the level of detail I was incorporating in my designs. One thing has led to another and now I sell some of my 3D prints, mainly items that interest me but other prototypes are slowly appearing too.

With it now possible to easily create transfer artwork and print it using a home computer/printer, the standard of finish can be brought very close to that now achieved by rtr manufactures - have a look at some of the stuff created by Thebrighton in the workbench thread.

I'm very much in the using a rtr chassis camp so I still bodge and fiddle in this department to get locomotives I want. I would still consider myself a modeller, however I now employ other tools in my modelling.

I think any kit building, bodging and fiddling will always result in a model with some compromises being made, the same is still true of the rtr manufactures. Despite the level of detail achieved, there are still compromises to be able to mould details, fit chassis, etc present, just the level of compromise has decreased dramatically over the last ten years or so.

I think there will always be a situation where a person would like a model that nobody makes, then it would be a case of scratchbuild/bodge or go without - hopefully many will choose the former! I do think that everyone should have a go at making some bits for themselves (I'm concentrating on buildings personally now) or at least some painting, you can't surprise yourself if you don't try!

Anyway, I'm rambling so will get my coat! 

[dodger]

Back when I started modelling in N gauge, I had a go at scratch building my own loco bodies using a variety of materials, metal, plastic and even cardboard (actually my most successful scratch builds were in card) as there isn't a great range of rtr for the 1930's LNER modeller. However, shortly after this Farish released it's new V2 and the new standard was set was far above my own modelling abilities.

Personally, I like to try and keep everything to a similar standard so for a time I didn't do any modelling. Then I read about 3D printing and spent some time learning CAD and waiting for printing to catch up with the level of detail I was incorporating in my designs. One thing has led to another and now I sell some of my 3D prints, mainly items that interest me but other prototypes are slowly appearing too.

With it now possible to easily create transfer artwork and print it using a home computer/printer, the standard of finish can be brought very close to that now achieved by rtr manufactures - have a look at some of the stuff created by Thebrighton in the workbench thread.

I'm very much in the using a rtr chassis camp so I still bodge and fiddle in this department to get locomotives I want. I would still consider myself a modeller, however I now employ other tools in my modelling.

I think any kit building, bodging and fiddling will always result in a model with some compromises being made, the same is still true of the rtr manufactures. Despite the level of detail achieved, there are still compromises to be able to mould details, fit chassis, etc present, just the level of compromise has decreased dramatically over the last ten years or so.

I think there will always be a situation where a person would like a model that nobody makes, then it would be a case of scratchbuild/bodge or go without - hopefully many will choose the former! I do think that everyone should have a go at making some bits for themselves (I'm concentrating on buildings personally now) or at least some painting, you can't surprise yourself if you don't try!

Anyway, I'm rambling so will get my coat! 

I quite agree with your thoughts and philosophy. I was wonder what the finish on 3D printed steam locos was like, is must fettling required to produce a good paint finish?

Dodger

[Stevie DC]

I quite agree with your thoughts and philosophy. I was wonder what the finish on 3D printed steam locos was like, is must fettling required to produce a good paint finish?

Dodger

It still depends to an extent. With FUD, in all cases, it will normally take two or three passes with some 600 grit wet and dry to remove all traces of the printing process. Using a fast drying car primer this can normally be done within a few hours. I wouldn't rate it as being particularly difficult, just a bit of attention as to where needs a little work.

The printing process (even on existing machines) is being refined all the time and the quality seems to be getting better and better. It's not quite at a level where the print can be used as is IMHO but it is very very close now... Personally, I'll take this as I believe that the finished article is better than any other kit type (unless it is taken from a printed master), other than if you've got the skill to do an etched kit justice (but I would say this wouldn't I!  )

Edit: Oh, and a good clean before any paint is applied to the model (as per any kit) to remove manufacturing residues...

[dude2112]

  I had always wanted to start in N-Gage when I started modelling but my local shop sadly had her indoors running it when ma lady and I went in...
She told us that the best sets to buy were Hornby...... Sadly knowing no better we bought into that and ran out of room 12 months later ( that's on an 8 ft by 7 ft  layout btw ).
Now I know better and am currently planning the same boards, maybe even 8x8 by 2ft wide for my N-Gage layout... the RTR models are fantastic as stated on this thread so I am concentrating more on the scenic side of this hobby which are also getting better every day.....

[Stevie DC]

In case anyone is interested, I came across my cardboard concept model of a J6 running on a Union Mills 39 wheelset. Everything (including the chassis) was made out of cardboard soaked in car board resin! I never did finish this as I really wasn't happy with it and still (c. 6 years later) haven't gotten around to designing a 3D printed replacement...

Seen here along with a (much used on here) photo of my N2 to show the difference in the standards achievable between my own scratch building efforts and my 3D printed ones...





The N2 is the close thing to a J6 I currently have, hence the comparison...

[fisherman]

My best  effort   so  far has  been  to  coax a Langley  Std 5 kit onto  a B1 chassis.

It would be  great if someone  released an 0-6-0 chassis / motor with  decent  spoked  wheels.

I would also love  to  see a10ft  wagon chassis  with  NEM pockets to make kit building and  coversion easier

[Roy L S]

In case anyone is interested, I came across my cardboard concept model of a J6 running on a Union Mills 39 wheelset. Everything (including the chassis) was made out of cardboard soaked in car board resin! I never did finish this as I really wasn't happy with it and still (c. 6 years later) haven't gotten around to designing a 3D printed replacement...

Seen here along with a (much used on here) photo of my N2 to show the difference in the standards achievable between my own scratch building efforts and my 3D printed ones...

Wouldn't the J6 be a perfect first venture into the kit market using the readily available UM tender-drive. If Mr Heard could be persuaded to look at a suitable chassis for a range of kits then even easier!

Just a thought........

Roy

[fisherman]

...I do  fancy having  a  go  @  the  GEM S&D 8f....


got a Grafar  8f  for the chassis too.....

just need some time!!!

[Les1952]

I'm dyspraxic, which means I have difficulty seeing and reproducing straight lines.  I also suffer from Repetitive Strain injury and my right wrist is in a splint for much of the time.

With these problems I can only admire the efforts of 2mm finescale modellers, and others who can make perfect little gems.  However it is no use telling me that I can aspire to making such masterpieces- medically I will never be able to do so.

I can. however, paint, line and weather stock.  I can also bodge conversions and I can build layouts that exhibition managers seem quite happy don't detract from the quality of their shows.



An example of bodging- a pair of UM J25s.  Each has been chipped for me- I can't solder reliably to the accuracy needed not to melt a decoder.  Each has had a repaint- the back one twice, someopne will remember an LNER J25 on Trevor Webster's Parnhams with the fireman sitting in the tender reading a newspaper.  Each has been weathered and the cabs glazed.  Each has had the tender swapped for a Midland type and I've altered the top to look more like an NER type, and when the locos are moving across the front of a layout they look the part.  The front one had its chip fitted in the cab, which offends me.  I've hidden it with a home-made tarpaulin- just paper.

Each to their own strengths.
Les

PS  Come and see these running at Grantham Railshow on the first weekend in September.

L

[belstone]

Love that cab sheet. Very North Eastern.

[Wingman mothergoose]

I'm dyspraxic, which means I have difficulty seeing and reproducing straight lines.  I also suffer from Repetitive Strain injury and my right wrist is in a splint for much of the time.

With these problems I can only admire the efforts of 2mm finescale modellers, and others who can make perfect little gems.  However it is no use telling me that I can aspire to making such masterpieces- medically I will never be able to do so.

I can. however, paint, line and weather stock.  I can also bodge conversions and I can build layouts that exhibition managers seem quite happy don't detract from the quality of their shows.



An example of bodging- a pair of UM J25s.  Each has been chipped for me- I can't solder reliably to the accuracy needed not to melt a decoder.  Each has had a repaint- the back one twice, someopne will remember an LNER J25 on Trevor Webster's Parnhams with the fireman sitting in the tender reading a newspaper.  Each has been weathered and the cabs glazed.  Each has had the tender swapped for a Midland type and I've altered the top to look more like an NER type, and when the locos are moving across the front of a layout they look the part.  The front one had its chip fitted in the cab, which offends me.  I've hidden it with a home-made tarpaulin- just paper.

Each to their own strengths.
Les

PS  Come and see these running at Grantham Railshow on the first weekend in September.

L

That shot of that layout looks really familiar, have you sold stuff on eBay recently?

Chris

[Les1952]

That shot of that layout looks really familiar, have you sold stuff on eBay recently?

Chris

Yes- much of the stuff I wasn't going to convert to DCC or which didn't fit either the time period or the area.  More to come in the Autumn.  This bit of the layout is the easiest to take photos on, all I have to do is remember to switch the power off first....



Another bodge, and less obvious.  60051 BLINK BONNY started out as a Lemberg, but has the tender from a Gladiateur to give a New Type tender behind banjo domed engine.  More recently I've made a Gladiateur by renumbering a Scotsman- purchased from Dr Al on eBay, I'm sure he'll be horrified....



All the very best
Les

[Stevie DC]

Great work there Les! Never one to turn down the chance to see some A3s in action - even if they are in the wrong livery/period!  I've got a few to do myself, Humorist is a must in 1930's condition (double chimney and LNER livery!). I'm also tempted to try and backdate one into original Gresley A1 condition...

Crossed topics I know, but the only thing that really gives that Minitrix break composite away (other than the slightly faded look - prototypical) is the lack of the waist lining. Otherwise it really looks the part in front of those Dapol Gresleys.  Did you repaint that one? If so cracking job!