Hey everyone. I am very new to model trains and I just have some basic questions if that is ok? I have had a search on the internet but I have to be honest I am not really sure what I am searching for as I still don't know the terms used in model trains!
How do you couple and uncouple trains/carriages?
What do 0-4-0, 2-6-4 and numbers formatted like this mean?
What brands of N gauge track are reliable and give you good options. So far I can only find UniTrack and Peco (I had to google Peco to find the answer to join the forum!)
Can someone point me in the direction of any N-Gauge superstores? I figure I will be be able to learn a lot just be searching through products and working out what they do from there. I mean I had no idea you could motorise points!
I am brand new to the world of model trains and while I have some experience in model making, this is all a bit foreign to me!
Where I am currently at:
I have build the space for my layout which I am now planning. (So I need to pick track!)
I have a DCC controller from Bachman on the way.
I have a train on the way, it is DC but I also have a DCC chip that I am going to install the chip in it.
I've decided on an era but not a theme for my layout.
Sorry to be such a pain, I just find that the information available is either all in technical language which I don't understand yet or focused on HO scale (which I found out is the same as OO)
I am very eager to learn.
Quote from: louder on February 26, 2017, 02:28:07 PM
How do you couple and uncouple trains/carriages?
Lots of alternatives, but virtually all UK stock will be supplied with Rapido couplings that are meant to be coupled and uncoupled manually. Alternatives from Dapol and Peco offer semi-automatic coupling.
Quote from: louder on February 26, 2017, 02:28:07 PM
What do 0-4-0, 2-6-4 and numbers formatted like this mean?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whyte_notation
Quote from: louder on February 26, 2017, 02:28:07 PM
What brands of N gauge track are reliable and give you good options. So far I can only find UniTrack and Peco (I had to google Peco to find the answer to join the forum!)
All the track sold is reliable, but they offer different advantages. Peco Setrack has a fixed geometry that makes it easy to build ovals, sidings and so on. Kato Unitrack is pre-ballasted and very reliable when it comes to electrics, but it doesn't look as realistic as Peco Streamline, which takes more work to put together but looks nicer.
Quote from: louder on February 26, 2017, 02:28:07 PM
Can someone point me in the direction of any N-Gauge superstores? I figure I will be be able to learn a lot just be searching through products and working out what they do from there. I mean I had no idea you could motorise points!
There really aren't any "just" N gauge stores out there, but places like Hattons, Rails, Osborns, Kernow, Model Railways Direct -- among others -- have big selections at competitive prices. That said, many of the smaller stores are well worth visiting, online or otherwise. Kent Garden Railways, for example, has a lot more N than its name might suggest!
If you're completely new to the hobby, joining the N Gauge Society is a no-brainer. For £21, you get six issues of an excellent magazine, a handbook containing a couple hundred pages on N gauge modelling aimed very much at beginners and intermediate hobbyists, as well as access to a special store which has their own exclusive products (including some excellent kits aimed at beginners that come with everything you need, including transfers).
Cheers, NeMo
Cheers, NeMo
Very good advice from Nemo there :thumbsup:
You have a local model club who recommend you visit at least 3 times before joining so popping along to see them may answer many of your questions...........
http://www.chestermodelrailwayclub.com/index.htm (http://www.chestermodelrailwayclub.com/index.htm)
I put together a basic guide in getting started and it may help you avoid some pitfalls...........
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=35556.0 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=35556.0)
Don't be afraid to ask questions on the forum as it will save you time, money and angst I can assure you!
Thank you for this information. So is it possible to mix set track and streamline? now I understand what the ST and SL stand for in the product names.
I've noticed in both SCRAM and AnyTrack, not all track pieces listed on Peco's site are on the system, is that normal? I have found some very good 2x4 layouts online which I am going to play around with in AnyTrack.
I have now found the Peco PL-10 motor switches and the little turnout box which look really fun, however obviously they do stick under the baseboard which isn't ideal but that is a solution.
So with the ST/SL track I can cut sections to size to fit my needs?
Set track is code 80 so will mix with code 80 flexitrack/points but I wouldn't recommend mixing code 80 and code 55.
Quote from: louder on February 26, 2017, 07:45:41 PM
Thank you for this information. So is it possible to mix set track and streamline? now I understand what the ST and SL stand for in the product names.
Up to a point, yes, you can mix them. Peco Setrack and Peco Streamline both use the same sized rail (called Code 80 rail) though their Streamline 'Finescale' range embeds that rail a bit deeper into the plastic than their standard Streamline range, giving a more authentic appearance. Basically, this means that while all three will connect happily enough, only Code 80 Setrack and Streamline connect without any differences in rail height, whereas Streamline 'Finescale' track will not connect smoothly without some adjustment made for the differences in rail height.
Quote from: louder on February 26, 2017, 07:45:41 PM
So with the ST/SL track I can cut sections to size to fit my needs?
I don't think there's any point to cutting Setrack. You might as well use it as it is, or combine it with code 80 flexitrack if you want fewer joins between sections of track. Code 80 flexitrack combines well with Setrack points and crossovers.
If you choose to do the whole layout in Streamline, I'd strongly recommend going for 'Finescale' Streamline. Because the rail is embedded deeper in the track, it not only looks better, but it also proves to be more durable and reliable.
Cheers, NeMo
I use Anyrail and haven't noticed any bits missing from the library. Could be wrong though. Don't forget there are 2 libraries for Peco. Code 55 and code 80.
:beers:
Ah right thank you,
I think the bits I believed to be missing were marked F...which obviously now I know is finescale! Awesome :)
So one last question for tonight, what is electrofrog and insulfrog, I assume frog is something to do with the track, relating specifically to points, from what I can find its the little bit of track that crosses over. So I would guess one of powered and one isn't. How do I know which I want and where? I am DCC if that changes anything.
I am going to pop to my local model shot tomorrow and speak to the guys there, apparently one of them is in the model train club and is happy to show a few bits and talk me through some products. :)
I must say, everyone is very helpful and nice. Thank you all so much.
Insulfrog is plastic at the V, whereas electrofrog is metal. Metal is better, allowing the loco wheels to maintain electrical contact and run through slowly without stalling. However electrofrog needs a little more thought when it comes to wiring and considering possibility of short circuits - nothing you can't learn though!
You're doing the right thing going to talk to a guy and hopefully being shown some of these things with an opportunity to discuss and learn. good luck!
If you'll be going down the DCC route, you be best off using electrofrog points.
What era do you want to model?
Quote from: louder on February 26, 2017, 08:09:46 PM
So one last question for tonight, what is electrofrog and insulfrog, I assume frog is something to do with the track, relating specifically to points, from what I can find its the little bit of track that crosses over. So I would guess one of powered and one isn't. How do I know which I want and where? I am DCC if that changes anything.
Insulfrog is easier to use, but very short wheelbase locos (such as shunters) may have problems crawling at low speeds across the plastic insulating bit (though if properly laid and kept clean, this problem may be more theoretical than actual).
Electrofrog gets the power to short locos even at very slow speeds, but the price you pay is significantly more complicated wiring otherwise short-circuiting is a problem.
DCC does have specific requirements so far as wiring goes; I'll let others answer that (I use DC for reasons of cost and simplicity).
Cheers, NeMo
PS. Unitrack points let you switch between insulating and electrically live frogs, as you prefer. They also allow you to isolate the siding coming off the point, or not, as you prefer. For this reason, even as a running-in track for new locos, there's a lot to be said for beginners buying some Unitrack and 'playing trains' for a while as they experiment with track design, wiring, DCC, etc.
G'day from Australia, louder, and welcome to the NGF! :thumbsup:
Lots of good advice above. Have fun!
i s there a local Model Railway club ?- well worth joining
http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/other/clubsheader.php (http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/other/clubsheader.php)
Go to some shows, and look at layouts / talk to operators. There are often layouts under construction on show, and they can give valuable help.
http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/events/exhibitions (http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/events/exhibitions)
( the find by post code option is very useful)
take your time. get a circle of track + siding and have a play ( I recommend Kato Unitrack of course). get a feel for the loco /couplings and the track setup.
expand it without fixing it permanently - so you can see how a final layout could look / perform.
don't set it in stone (- ie fully ballasted/sceniced) until you feel confident.
is your DC loco "DCC ready" ie with a DCC socket already fitted? if not, you will have a DIY job ahead, the Forum history usually has links to "how do i fit DCC to an XXXX".
prepare to ditch the Bachmann DCC controller ASAP - limited functions, and useability. see DCC section for tons of advice ( usually conflicting!)
Good luck and remember Rule 1!
Thank you all. :)
After venturing to the model shop I have returned with some code 55 flex track that will be sacrificial while I work out what is possible and what looks good in the space. I've started planning (you can see where I am up to in the layout section of the forum) and I even got a carriage to roll around the track and test corners with to see what looks and works best. I also have some underlay to test clearance height for something like a tunnel. They also gave me a Peco N adage planbook. It is for setrack but its got lots of other useful information and it was very kind of them.
Lots of really good information here.
The era I am going for is 1945 - 1970s DB electric trains with some diesel shunters. A family friend is German and seeing as I think the 40s-50s period of design is lovely and want trains with overhead wiring they fit the bill!
After looking at controllers I don't think there is a massive amount I will need that the Bachmann one can't do really. I think at most I will have 3 trains as the space is so small. The only change I would make is going wireless but the cost is quite prohibitive, plus then I would have to look into DCC points and well, one thing at a time for me.
The train isn't DDC ready but I have found a few tutorials online. The model shop offers a DCC service for £35, inc the price of the decoder and he did say I could watch the process is I wanted to.
The largest issue I have is what to do next. Part of me wants to buy some track and just play with my train when it arrives, but then with me leaning towards code 55 thanks to the help of people on here, it's not just as easy as buying what I need and clipping it together. So do I spend £50 on a setrack pack just to get playing? I can't seem to find a way to temporarily hold down SL Code 55.
It's going to be another week till I can get my first train moving on the track but that's ok, perhaps I could come up with a theme.
Sounds like the shop was very helpful to you.
I fear that's the problem with flexi track (regardless of code) in that you can't just connect bits of track and be up and running in no time as you need track cutters (Xurons), a set of small files, packs of metal and plastic fishplates, Tracksettas and summat to hold the track in place. It does not help the impatient :no:
If you're going to buy an oval of track to watch a train going round it won't hurt to get set track as you'll need an oval of track to run DCC ready locos in before fitting a chip to them and this can be kept separate to the layout proper. I still advise you not to buy set track/insulfrog points.
Hi Louder,
If you not on a tight budget and can afford to buy a circuit of track to play around with that's not a bad way to go. You could even make a little layout as a practice piece - add some scenery, try ballasting the track etc. If you want to run a DC loco and don't have a DC controller you can run it round with batteries; a 9v battery is OK although the train might go a bit quick!
take a look at this iconic layout (although a British feel)
Cheers Jon :)
They were very good, I am thrilled with my tiny carriage, pushing it back on forth on the track.
This might be stupid would I need track to run DCC ready trains before chipping them? I will look into it. I fear I may just end up playing with trains the entire time!
That is a really lovely little layout...there is space on a shelf (30cm x 68cm) for a small shunting yard (a straight track with a point)...with manual points. I could ballast track. I am oddly excited to ballast track. I am concerned about modelling terrain I must admit. Thankfully layout is restricted in size thanks to the dining room so there won't be a massive amount of terrain. I would like a station and some kind of shed but other than that I am not even sure what i am going to use as grass so it's just not a bit rectangle of flat green stuff.
Hi @louder (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=5980) , I'd recommend buying a small oval Kato Unitrack starter set with controller. You can set it up on practically any surface, even (though I wouldn't do it myself) on the carpet. And it'll pack away in to a shoebox. It's possibly the quickest route to getting to play with your trains running and provides a means for testing/running-in locos while you're working on your scenic layout.
I agree with @RailGooner (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=5427) - get a circuit of Unitrack for your test oval, it's better than Peco Setrack for quick'n'dirty temporary set-ups: more robust and not so fiddly rail joiners.
I've used Peco code 55 for over 20 years but I keep a box of Unitrack for table-top testing of new locos. Yes you should test and run-in "DCC-ready" locos on good old DC before you fit a decoder.
So you're modelling German - excellent, same here (as you can see from my profile piccie). What loco are you getting for your first? Have to have a classic BR 103 electric, you can just about justify it at the very end of the period you're focusing on!
Ok so, avoid set track at all costs. Good to know! In the setrack book there is a rather track heavy shunting yard shelf layout I was tempted to adapt for practice but I shall avoid it. (You can find that here http://imgur.com/TiZHzqS (http://imgur.com/TiZHzqS) )
My first train is is the DB Class E41, BR 141 262-6 by Arnold in a beautiful cream and blue, really nice looking. It's not quite the DB Class 103 E 03 (look at me using train names!) in cream and red I was hovering over on eBay, nor E44 that peaked my interest in the German stuff but it's got a lovely shape to it. The carriage picked up today is a DB one, the box says Fleischmann 8163 K, not sure what the translates to (I still no nothing about carriages or rolling stock other than travelling on merseyrail :D) but its in that nice cream and red colour way and it has lots of square windows. There was a cheaper one with a brighter silver roof and much larger windows but that bright silver roof really turned me off. Sadly the loco won't arrive for another week or so as the guy hasn't posted yet and its 2nd class. There was a Class 103 in the store today but £75 seems like too much at the moment.
I do need to track down some matching carriages for my loco though, that would be nice.
So with the unitrack, what DC controller am I best looking at getting? I assumed I could just use the channel 10 on the Bachmann controller like it says on their tutorial.
There's nothing wrong with Set Track - It's just that it isn't so good for temporary setting up - Unitrack clicks together more securely. Set Track is fine when pinned down, and OK "ish" when set up temporarily on a table top.
Newport Nobby says to avoid the SetTrack points, and there is sense in this suggestion; you can substitute in wider radius Streamline code 80 points; these are a perfect match to the Set Track.
Be very cautious about using channel "10" - I am no DCC expert but there are videos on YouTube suggesting that this setting destroys N Gauge motors.
Cheers Jon
Quote from: louder on February 27, 2017, 04:39:40 PM
Ok so, avoid set track at all costs.
Not "at all costs", it's perfectly serviceable but as has been said the Set Track points are right on the usually recommended minimum radius. To be honest my entire fiddleyard uses Set Track points and generally they've been fine. Many continental models can cope with even tighter radius as the manufacturer's track systems include tighter radii in their systems (eg. Minitrix, fleischmann, Arnold).
Set Track curves can be a useful way of creating the hidden returns in tunnels etc. as they're easier to deal with than trying to bend flexi-track if you're not used to the latter. I built a return loop module last year using Set Track curves for convenience although my main layout uses code 55 flexi.
Quote
My first train is is the DB Class E41, BR 141 262-6 by Arnold in a beautiful cream and blue, really nice looking.
Very nice! As my layout is more modern time period I tend to know the locos as BR141 etc. rather than their earlier "E numbers"!
Quote
I assumed I could just use the channel 10 on the Bachmann controller like it says on their tutorial.
No, definitely avoid that. With DCC there is power in the track at all times and the small motor in an unchipped N gauge loco will be cooked over time (in fact quite rapidly with some of the modern coreless motors). Channel 10 uses "zero-stretching" of the DCC signal to make it appear like a positive or negative voltage is present and drive the motor, but you're really not doing it any favours. It's a facility which has fallen out of favour.
Here is the "Deansmoor" fiddleyard using Set Track, including the points.
They're fine - but for my next layout I will see if I can use less severe radii!!
Cheers Jon :)
Quote from: louder on February 27, 2017, 04:39:40 PM
Ok so, avoid set track at all costs. Good to know! In the setrack book there is a rather track heavy shunting yard shelf layout I was tempted to adapt for practice but I shall avoid it. (You can find that here http://imgur.com/TiZHzqS (http://imgur.com/TiZHzqS) )
My first train is is the DB Class E41, BR 141 262-6 by Arnold in a beautiful cream and blue, really nice looking. It's not quite the DB Class 103 E 03 (look at me using train names!) in cream and red I was hovering over on eBay, nor E44 that peaked my interest in the German stuff but it's got a lovely shape to it. The carriage picked up today is a DB one, the box says Fleischmann 8163 K, not sure what the translates to (I still no nothing about carriages or rolling stock other than travelling on merseyrail :D) but its in that nice cream and red colour way and it has lots of square windows. There was a cheaper one with a brighter silver roof and much larger windows but that bright silver roof really turned me off. Sadly the loco won't arrive for another week or so as the guy hasn't posted yet and its 2nd class. There was a Class 103 in the store today but £75 seems like too much at the moment.
I do need to track down some matching carriages for my loco though, that would be nice.
So with the unitrack, what DC controller am I best looking at getting? I assumed I could just use the channel 10 on the Bachmann controller like it says on their tutorial.
Unitrack starter sets include a PSU with appropriate connectors for the track. TRainTrax and Osbornes are good sources.
If you decide to move on, the PSU could be reused with code 55 or the sets have a good resale value.
http://www.traintrax.co.uk/starter-sets-gauge-c-10.html?osCsid=msaq4cuket1n0irr870b2n9nr6 (http://www.traintrax.co.uk/starter-sets-gauge-c-10.html?osCsid=msaq4cuket1n0irr870b2n9nr6)
http://www.traintrax.co.uk/unitrack-gauge-unitrack-track-sets-c-28_1.html (http://www.traintrax.co.uk/unitrack-gauge-unitrack-track-sets-c-28_1.html)
Failing that, many retailers sell the Farish DC unit which has been split from a train set. They are actually very good although have no separate outputs for accessories. They just power the track and do it well.
Just to explain -
DCC ready means the loco will have a blanking plate so it runs on DC. Once you have run it in to make sure it's OK with DC then you can remove the blanking plate and insert the chip of your choice.
DCC fitted means the loco comes with chip already fitted and this can be run in using DCC, although I believe some chips allow running under DC and DCC.
There - that's displayed the sum total of my knowledge of DCC and I dare say even that's wrong somewhere ::) :-[
I only know them in their E numbers due to wikipedia, I don't know what their numbers mean yet. I have no be honest. I am not a train person. I am learning about them as I go. I've found a few helpful websites but often I just browse the models, find one I like the look of, check the year and find out more info that way. I've always thought trains were interesting and I live very close to Chester station meaning I've grown up around them. My grandfather was a mechanic and I remember him building wind up kits of what I think were G scale trains.
I don't think I will ever be amazing knowledgable with trains but I know what I like so that is a start! The main issue is don't speak German, a little Dutch and Mandarin so I guess it's time to learn German!
Would a controller like this work with the Kato track? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roco-10788-240v-12v-DC-Controller-adaptor-Hornby-R8250-alternative-NEW-UNBOXED-/292040102158?hash=item43fef2510e:g:DLQAAOSwa~BYTR6n (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roco-10788-240v-12v-DC-Controller-adaptor-Hornby-R8250-alternative-NEW-UNBOXED-/292040102158?hash=item43fef2510e:g:DLQAAOSwa~BYTR6n)
The basic oval with the controller http://www.traintrax.co.uk/20850-basic-oval-with-kato-controller-p-396.html (http://www.traintrax.co.uk/20850-basic-oval-with-kato-controller-p-396.html) is certainly something I am going to pick up. It does mean I don't need to chip the train straight away either. I have decided I will get the model store to do it, seeing as it is my only train at the moment I would hate to ruin it. I am currently looking at a few none runners on eBay of more modern trains so I can take them apart and see what makes them tick. I am looking for modern none runners as then there should be more documentation and they are more likely to have a single problem, rather than a few.
Thats a very cool 'fiddle yard', perhaps not the best name for that!
I am programmer by trade (at least that is part of my job) so I am quite intrigued by the DCC side of automation but that is much, much further down the line for me.
Sounds like you're getting a pretty strong handle on the hobby, louder. :thumbsup: :beers:
Quote from: louder on February 27, 2017, 04:39:40 PM
The carriage picked up today is a DB one, the box says Fleischmann 8163 K, not sure what the translates to (I still no nothing about carriages or rolling stock other than travelling on merseyrail :D) but its in that nice cream and red colour way and it has lots of square windows. There was a cheaper one with a brighter silver roof and much larger windows but that bright silver roof really turned me off.
The 8163K is a 1st Grossraumwagen (open coach in the UK parlance). I've found this database to be useful for looking model numbers, etc:
http://www.spur-n-datenbank.de/index.php (http://www.spur-n-datenbank.de/index.php)
The search doesn't seem to work so use the menu on the left. :)
I am really enjoying it. I am quite excited to get building really. There is a lot to learn and I know I will never know it all but I am enjoying trying. Everyone here is very helpful and encouraging. My other hobbies are rather different from this so it's nice to have such a supportive community.
I think I am going to pick up http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roco-10788-240v-12v-DC-Controller-adaptor-Hornby-R8250-alternative-NEW-UNBOXED-/292040102158?hash=item43fef2510e:g:DLQAAOSwa~BYTR6n (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roco-10788-240v-12v-DC-Controller-adaptor-Hornby-R8250-alternative-NEW-UNBOXED-/292040102158?hash=item43fef2510e:g:DLQAAOSwa~BYTR6n)
and
http://www.traintrax.co.uk/20865-outer-oval-track-master-p-266.html (http://www.traintrax.co.uk/20865-outer-oval-track-master-p-266.html) for my testing. :)
Quote from: louder on February 27, 2017, 09:39:23 PM
I am currently looking at a few none runners on eBay of more modern trains so I can take them apart and see what makes them tick. I am looking for modern none runners as then there should be more documentation and they are more likely to have a single problem, rather than a few.
On the other hand, if you investigate bargain Minitrix, Arnold or Fleischmann models from say the 70s & 80s they are simpler and easier to dismantle and work on if you want to learn. A bit like older cars are easier to service without electronics etc. all over them! Spares aren't necessarily a big problem, it depends on what's needed. Many of the models from that age are still good reliable runners just maybe lacking in a little fine detail.
One of my favourite old models is the Arnold ET420 multiple unit, I've got about a dozen of them and I still regularly run models made over 30 years ago on my exhibition layout even though the latest models have been completely re-tooled.
Here's one of mine that dates from the late 70s
(http://geocities.ws/fhdmrc/images/mbrlayout/et420doornkaat.jpg)
As you say, still looks good, doesn't it! :thumbsup:
That does look good! Nice overhead work as well, it looks fantastic.
Well I've ordered the DC controller so I just need to get my hands on some track. I might pop to the model shop tomorrow and get the track from there seeing as they were so helpful.
Quote from: louder on February 27, 2017, 04:39:40 PM
Ok so, avoid set track at all costs. Good to know! In the setrack book there is a rather track heavy shunting yard shelf layout I was tempted to adapt for practice but I shall avoid it. (You can find that here http://imgur.com/TiZHzqS (http://imgur.com/TiZHzqS) )
My first train is is the DB Class E41, BR 141 262-6 by Arnold in a beautiful cream and blue, really nice looking. It's not quite the DB Class 103 E 03 (look at me using train names!) in cream and red I was hovering over on eBay, nor E44 that peaked my interest in the German stuff but it's got a lovely shape to it. The carriage picked up today is a DB one, the box says Fleischmann 8163 K, not sure what the translates to (I still no nothing about carriages or rolling stock other than travelling on merseyrail :D) but its in that nice cream and red colour way and it has lots of square windows. There was a cheaper one with a brighter silver roof and much larger windows but that bright silver roof really turned me off. Sadly the loco won't arrive for another week or so as the guy hasn't posted yet and its 2nd class. There was a Class 103 in the store today but £75 seems like too much at the moment.
I do need to track down some matching carriages for my loco though, that would be nice.
So with the unitrack, what DC controller am I best looking at getting? I assumed I could just use the channel 10 on the Bachmann controller like it says on their tutorial.
Don't use channel 10 on Bachman controller for DC. Even though it is the instruction manual Bachman will not accept any liability for the damage done. In DCC the track is fed by 14 volt AC not 12 volt DC. A rather expensive fizzing noise will be heard from the loco if you do.
If you are looking for a simple quick oval of track try the Kato starter sets, they have a 12 volt power supply and the Kato point controller fits directly to studs on the controller. You will get a quick to set up test track. For DCC you can just swap the controller for any DCC controller.
Would a controller like this work with the Kato track? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roco-10788-240v-12v-DC-Controller-adaptor-Hornby-R8250-alternative-NEW-UNBOXED-/292040102158?hash=item43fef2510e:g:DLQAAOSwa~BYTR6n (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roco-10788-240v-12v-DC-Controller-adaptor-Hornby-R8250-alternative-NEW-UNBOXED-/292040102158?hash=item43fef2510e:g:DLQAAOSwa~BYTR6n)
this should be fine with the Kato track. you will have to cut off the plug ( leave 2" of cable on the plug so that you can reconnect it if necessary!) to connect to the roco controller.
Thank you :)
My first locomotive arrived today! Very excited to open it. Just need the controller to arrive and pick up some track. Sadly my local store doesn't have any Kato stuff so I guess I need to pick it up online!
Update: Track ordered!
Does it matter which side of the track I set to be positive and which to be negative from the controller?
Quote from: louder on March 01, 2017, 01:02:20 PM
Does it matter which side of the track I set to be positive and which to be negative from the controller?
For DC it only matters with regard to the direction you expect the loco to move when you turn the controller knob. I think for the small scales usually the right rail is positive when looking forward (LGB G scale is the opposite!) If the loco doesn't go the way you want, swap the two wires over - it's no big deal!
[edit]
I expect most folk arrange things so that the direction switch left/right or the control knob left/right matches the way the loco moves when it's on the track nearest to the operator. Funnily enough I do the opposite, mine is set to match the direction the loco moves on the scenic part of my layout which is further away, and when in the fiddleyard directly in front of me the direction of movement is opposite to the switch! [/edit]
For DCC it doesn't matter because it's the decoder which is controlling the direction of travel. With DCC you can turn the loco 180 degrees and it will still go forward or backward according to how it's driven. With DCC you'll soon find you need to stop thinking "left or right" and always think "foward or backward"!
With either DC or DCC, it's important to make sure all the power feeds are arranged with the same rail connected to the same controller terminal or you'll get a short circuit.
Thank you :) My DC controller arrived today so I am just hoping the track arrives tomorrow and I will be able to have my little loco drive along :) My girlfriend caught me pushing the carriage along the little bit of flex track I already have haha.