Double header trains

[kdcliff]

I have an analogue layout with a mainline station. I would like to occasionally run some trains pulled by two locomotives. Is this possible? I have checked the separate speeds of three GF locomotives and they are equivalent. However, these locomotives have no coupling at the front of them. Is it an easy matter to connect two locomotives so that they can be run together?

[ntpntpntp]

Well you've checked for reasonable speed matching and that's a start (and it is important to ensure a good match to avoid straining the mechanisms).

If the loco doesn't have a front coupling, is there provision to fit one - eg. an empty coupling pocket?   If not then you'll have to consider whether you could fit such a pocket and coupling yourself?

Which locos are they? Can you post photos of the fronts?

[Gizzy]

When you say connect together, do you mean electrically, with wires?

Or mechanically with couplers....

[kdcliff]

I would like to couple the locomotives together - but there is no existing mechanism (see photo) at the front of the locos.

[ntpntpntp]

@kdcliff   Ah ok so it's a loco with a leading bogie, definitely not designed to have a front coupling.   

Probably your best bet is to fashion some sort of vertical hook coupling from stiff wire or brass strip and glue it to the underside of the bogie, but be aware that as the bogie isn't designed to take any "pull" it's possible that it may derail as the two locos run.  I'm sure you won't be the first to have fitted such a coupling hook.

There is a precedent for having a simple hook as opposed to a standard Rapido coupling: some Union Mills locos have a vertical hook fitted on the front  (similar to the hook found on some small Arnold locos)

[kdcliff]

Many thanks for the information. I feel it is a little beyond my current capabilities to attach a 'coupling' mechanism of my own making and one that wouldn't cause any trouble as the locomotive makes it way across many points and crossovers on my layout. I may come back to it one day when I've got a spare loco that I don't mind wrecking if it goes wrong. Meantime I'll simply enjoy standard train configurations. It was just a thought...

[Chris Morris]

Most recently produced steam outline locos have a front coupling or at least a housing. Speed match doesn't have to be exact but it should be reasonably close.

[Bealman]

That is a very impressive video. Thanks for posting! 

[jpendle]

Most recently produced steam outline locos have a front coupling or at least a housing. Speed match doesn't have to be exact but it should be reasonably close.

Huh, it's easy with kettles. Diesels are much harder as, for most,  you can't tell at a glance which is the front end 

I'll go away now and have a lie down. 

John P

[Chris Morris]

Most recently produced steam outline locos have a front coupling or at least a housing. Speed match doesn't have to be exact but it should be reasonably close.

Huh, it's easy with kettles. Diesels are much harder as, for most,  you can't tell at a glance which is the front end 

I'll go away now and have a lie down. 

John P

I can tell the front of my diesels easily - its the end with no coupling and a few pipes dangling. Except for the ones I use for double heading.

[Newportnobby]

Huh, it's easy with kettles. Diesels are much harder as, for most,  you can't tell at a glance which is the front end

I just have a dummy class 35 and a dummy class 122 I can use for double heading in the case of diseasels or for failed diseasels being hauled by steam

Speed match doesn't have to be exact but it should be reasonably close.

For some reason I have it in my head 'tis better for the slower loco to be pushed than to be pulled but is this right please?

[ntpntpntp]

For some reason I have it in my head 'tis better for the slower loco to be pushed than to be pulled but is this right please?

Neither is at all good, but if absolutely necessary I would lead with the faster loco so that couplings are kept taught and  you're lightening the load on the slower loco (which might allow it run just that little bit faster).   If you lead with the slower loco and the train loco is a kettle with a front bogie then even more likelyhood that bogie won't track well as it's trying to push some weight.

[thebrighton]

Rather than trying to match loco speeds there are plenty of non working locos out there. Strip the electrical bits out and leave a free rolling loco to fill the role.

[honk843]

I feel it is a little beyond my current capabilities to attach a 'coupling' mechanism of my own making

Have you thought about buying a recent bogie for say a black five? It would just screw in. You could use the coupling provided and get larger bogie wheels to boot.

[RailGooner]

Most recently produced steam outline locos have a front coupling or at least a housing. Speed match doesn't have to be exact but it should be reasonably close.

Huh, it's easy with kettles. Diesels are much harder as, for most,  you can't tell at a glance which is the front end 

I'll go away now and have a lie down. 

John P

I can tell the front of my diesels easily - its the end with no coupling and a few pipes dangling. Except for the ones I use for double heading.

I've always understood that for diesels the end nearest the exhaust is the front - a translation of the chimney being at the front of a steam loco.