the never ending battle for reliable running...

[EddieA]

For additional weight on models try getting hold of lead shot (as in shotgun) or even steel ball bearings will work. In either case PVA or suprglue will gold them

I seem to remember that there has been some correspondence previously both in magazines and on forums about PVA reacting with lead shot over a period of time causing damage?   

[EtchedPixels]

PVA and lead shot expands, certain people who filled locos with lead shot and PVA got nasty surprises when they ruptured  later.

Lead is best avoided for other reasons anyway (and if you do use lead its really important you make sure anyone buying it 2nd hand on ebay etc knows it contains lead). It's also quite hard to find sometimes since it got banned for fishing weights.

I mostly use scrap steel or mazak bits from things like dead loco chassis and peco wagon chassis.  One or two things have lead in them because there isn't enough room for anything else (M7 being a notable one) but in lumps so the worst it'll do is fall off.

[Sprintex]

Got my lead shot from a diving supplies shop 

To add weight to the HST dummy car I made up a little box out of card, filled it with shot then dripped superglue over it to bond it. Easily removable for servicing, etc without any mess


Paul

[H]

You can get lead on a roll that is for window stained glass glazing strips. It's available from DIY and hobby stores, can be cut with scissors and has a self adhesive side (with peel off paper) so you can built up several layers in to a suitable block. It's just the right size to fit in N gauge coaches and in the underframe compartment on Mk3 coaches.

H.

[longbridge]

Although I use lead as weights in my rolling stock I do not use glue at all.

Thankfully lead sinkers have not been banned in Oz so what I do is hammer a sinker of suitable weight and size flat, cut it to size with an old pair of scissors and hold it in place with Blu-tack, easily removable but holds well enough not to work loose.

[mr magnolia]

I have a sheet of lead that I intend to use to weigh my 04 down, but I've got to find a place to hide it!
I intend in due course to add weight to the wagons and coaches as per the NMRA guidelines

[EtchedPixels]

I have a sheet of lead that I intend to use to weigh my 04 down, but I've got to find a place to hide it!
I intend in due course to add weight to the wagons and coaches as per the NMRA guidelines

Not really much you can do there - only space is the cab and adding weight to the cab will reduce adhesion as right now its properly balanced.

Alan

[Dr Al]

I intend in due course to add weight to the wagons and coaches as per the NMRA guidelines

Why?

Unless you actually have running problems there really should be no need, and if you are running problems the first place to look is the track I'd have thought.

Cheers,
Alan

[Calnefoxile]

Unless you actually have running problems there really should be no need, and if you are running problems the first place to look is the track I'd have thought.

Cheers,
Alan

Got to agree with Alan here, if the stock runs fine on normal straight or curved track, but only stalls on the pointwork, then I would be looking at the pointwork.

A few things to look at, that I look at first are:

1. Is the point laid flat??
2. On the bottom of the point blades is a small lug, that slips under the outer rails, give that a tweak. Not too much as it is easily broken.
3. Clean the inner surfaces of the outer rails, and the surfaces of the blades where they contact the outer rails (but you've said you've done that)
4. Very, very gently, tweak the blades towards the outer rails with a pair of pliers. It doesn't take much tweaking to do this, just gently grip the blade rails with a pair of pliers and bend towards the outer rails, as I said it doesn't take much pressure to do this.

If after that lot you're still having problems, then I would be looking at which locos stall and exactly where they stall, they could be lifting slightly on the check rails, run a file between the check rail and outer rail.

Something else I've jujst thought of, if you've ballasted there might be a single grain of baalst between the check rail and outer rail thats lifting the loco slightly, running the file through as above, might be enough to clear it.

Anyway, good luck with that lot. If you're still having problems, then come back to us, someone else might come up with another possible answer.

Regards

Neal.

[mr magnolia]

I intend in due course to add weight to the wagons and coaches as per the NMRA guidelines

Why?

Unless you actually have running problems there really should be no need, and if you are running problems the first place to look is the track I'd have thought.

Cheers,
Alan

Oh just because I think that weighted wagons look better when they are running. Its only weight in the little loco that I'm thinking will improve power pick up.

[Bikeracer]

ok....



yet still i can't get slow running into my depot yard over a few points...

and to make matters worse i still get short circuits with my dmu and class 73, even though i have checked the back to backs using a gauge...


any ideas?


tim

Hi Tim,

Dunno if what I've found is any of your problem.

On my points which are Insulfrog,whether the Electrofrog are any different I don't know.I'm having problems with very slow running of my Dapol Class 26 when it comes to the part of the frog where it branches into two rails and they are separated with a very thin spacer at the point.

At normal speeds there's no problem,but when creeping over the points the bogey wheels momentarily short across both rails and the loco stops.
Remedies I've tried at the moment are easing the rails apart slightly and inserting a scrap of thin paper between the rail and the plastic spacer,painting both rails at the join for 3-4mm with permanent marker,both methods have worked about 90% of the time.

My next attempt will be to wrap a small piece of masking tape or insulation tape over the top of both rails.

Allan

[EtchedPixels]

Check the gauging on the wheels - this shouldn't happen unless one of the axles is way out of gauge

[Bikeracer]

Thanks Alan,I'll check that.

Not really sure why being out on the back to back measurement should do it,but I'll check anyway.

Allan

[jonclox]

Some months back I discovered

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=DLBD-38

and have used it sucsessfully ever sinse. The 'shot' is minute and easily held in place by a drop of superglue

[Flakmunky]

Not really sure why being out on the back to back measurement should do it,but I'll check anyway.

If the back to back is too narrow then if for example the point is set to straight ahead, the inside of the flanges could touch both the stock rail and the point blade for the diverging route, hence causing a short.