Quotewho has a landline nowadays....

I only have a landline, I rarely make outgoing calls, probably less than 1 a month, I have mobility problems so rarely go out so I don't need a mobile phone. My late wife passed one of her mobile phones to me when she upgraded, I used it once in 6 months, then binned it when they wanted more money. (I don't have a TV either - they take up modelling time!)

Quotewho has a landline nowadays....

Me!   I've had a simple PAYG mobile for decades (not a smart phone as I hate those) but a £10 top-up lasts for many months as I just don't use it other than for incoming texts (payment verification codes etc.)      The reception indoors is so poor anyway, it has to sit on a windowsill.   I always use the landline

Quote from: Dorsetmike on January 12, 2023, 02:53:16 PM
(I don't have a TV either - they take up modelling time!)

Aarrgh  couldn't live without TVs all over the house

 

@Dr Al

I like seeing your modelling, as well as that of some others on the Forum who also have been quiet in recent months. You/they have given me inspiration and ideas in what and how I model. Please keep up the postings!

It could be, though, on people deciding what sort of 'modeller' they are. Some only want RTR, some will detail RTR, some like kit building for it's own sake, and any number of combinations in between.

Me-I like to detail RTR, kit build or convert RTR where feasible, and work within my limitations and knowledge-which has grown since becoming a member of the Forum and seeing just what can be achieved; and hopefully inspire others to think 'I could do that........but didn't know how to'

Martyn

Quote from: martyn on January 12, 2023, 04:33:16 PM


@Dr Al

I like seeing your modelling, as well as that of some others on the Forum who also have been quiet in recent months. You/they have given me inspiration and ideas in what and how I model. Please keep up the postings

If I could prolong the off-topic bit for a while... I entirely agree with Martyn - meant to say something like this in my last post but got distracted with the RTNR thing.

I find your loco build posts very interesting @Dr Al - please resume postings when you have time.  Interest might seem quiet, but that's because sometimes there's not a lot you can do to reply to one of your build/conversion posts except to say "Wow" or "Great Modelling", and too many of those posts make a thread a bit tedious.  If this forum's rating/response system was easier to see and use, like the RMWeb one, I'd respond that way but I've never been able to make the NGF one work. (No criticism of Tank and the gang - I know you're using a proprietary forum format to keep costs down & the forum is much appreciated.)

Actually, this is on-topic as a lot of Dr Al's posts are about improving UM locos.

Richard

[in the late 1960s, early 70s.  He was a real master at butchering RTR and kits into other things.  An easy one was the Triang L1 into a 2P, although Hornby as it became had produced one by the time I was ready to have a go myself.  Hence years ago a Std 5 made by shortening a minitrix Brit body and marrying in to a Farish B5 chassis.  Or a much cut down Farish 61XX married to a minitrix Ivatt tank with simplified valve gear - a very presentable 55XX.  I sold both!
[/quote]

Shame you did in some ways - of course they might be overshadowed by a modern RTR, but they would clearly have been something unique, that would have been interesting to see!

Cheers,
Alan
[/quote]

It is a shame I did not have the camera equipment to photo some of my creations.  I was using my phone for the Journal Article!  I sold all the GWR stuff c 2003/4 when I had sold the layout - Abersoch .  It appeared in the RM for a short mid age article and was at Aly Paly in 2001.  That included the Manor, and 2 moguls from PD March.  A Langley Collett Goods as well as some of my own creations. The Std 5 was sold just after I bought the farish offering.  I have another on order with TMC for weathering.  When I had the 61XX body cut into 4 pieces I did doubt my sanity!  But the resulting 55XX was pleasing.  More recently Dapol offered it and if I had still been modelling in Wales rather than Scotland, I would have had one.  Of course I make no pretence that my butchering produces other than what is at typical viewing distances, a recognisable representation.  As well as some fun working out what might look presentable.  I have had a comment along the lines of "where did that K4 come from"!

Yes we do diverge on the cost related issues.  I have just paid £133 for Firth of Forth, a superb offering from Dapols new release of Brits.  What to do with my first release, Tornado (yes  that name was given to a BBrit).  Sell it or use the chassis for one of Rudi's 3D Clans?   Decisions.  But apart from being wary financially (which you might expect from a retired accountant with some Scottish blood in my veins!),  It certainly does not sit well with me that to "make" a J36 or K2 would cost as much to build from a 3D print when I am doing for myself the work which others have done on the Brit.  Or the weathered Class 24 I bought at the same time.   

Have fun.  That's what our hobby is about.
Colin

Quote from: Chris Morris on January 06, 2023, 04:40:24 PM
If anyone is interested Footplate models of Kidderminster have a secondhand Dukedog for sale - £93. I spotted it in a cabinet today. I told the owner it was now a collectors item so he might put the price up!

Well they did have,doesn't look like it's been used.
Thank you for posting your message!
I just need the find a Dean goods and the Collett 2251.

Perhaps sadder than the end for Union Mills there is a whole bunch of CJM stuff on ebay if anyone wants...

Quote from: Dickydcc on January 14, 2023, 08:43:26 PM
Perhaps sadder than the end for Union Mills there is a whole bunch of CJM stuff on ebay if anyone wants...

Chris' son Matt is clearing out lots of modelling bits and pieces - decals, etches etc.

Qu.  Has Colin finished altogether or will he supply spares and assemblies like a tender drive/chassis?

Quote from: Greygreaser on January 16, 2023, 10:04:21 PM
Qu.  Has Colin finished altogether or will he supply spares and assemblies like a tender drive/chassis?

It is my understanding that he was looking to retire, and at 78 who can blame him.

From what I have read the speed with which word got round and he sold his remaining stock was unexpected, and he does have some sorting out to do but I don't think there are any plans to make/source anything new. So, it will just be a case of what he finds as he winds things down. I think the question of tender-drives has been asked already by someone on this Forum and he has said he doesn't have any left.

Roy

Quote from: Dr Al on January 06, 2023, 04:38:02 PMMotors were until more recently a standard 10-15 can motor size - China 3 pole type jobs, which can be got direct from China pretty easily. More recent is a smaller 8x15 (or 8x12 possibly) motor of a similar style.

Keeping these running won't be a problem - there's also Tramfabriek's coreless motors, which can definitely fit (they have a 1015 replacement, for example).

Does anybody have a link to where I could buy replacement motors, in both the larger and smaller sizes please?

I've two UM locos to repair and they both look to need motors so i bought these from eBay seller bee_studio in PRC. They came in 2 weeks and cost(inc a bit for postage) £6 for the coreless and £4 for the brushed. Buying just two the cost is below the vat/customs threshold so you only pay postage.
Coreless is 12mm Diam by 15mm long, dual end 1mm shaft, without any screw holes so will use epoxy glue for fixing.
Brushed is 12mm Diam 10mm 'thick' and 15mm Long, dual 1mm shaft, 2 screw holes at 8mm centres. Given the screw holes might not correspond this might also need gluing.
Max speeds at 12v look similar to the Tramfabriek motors but I might still need gears and I think some medical grade tubing to cut up for tyres. Think there's a size which is sufficiently undersized to 'grip' when stretched but not too thick to enlarge the wheel diameter.
I'll be posting my results after I've got all the layout electrics functioning.
Hope this helps?

I've put "N Drive" 1015 motors in a couple of Voyagers, they were dirt cheap, and performed better than the Farish originals. Would go coreless these days though. FWIW the VAT threshold is £135, so whilst yes, 2 motors is under it, twenty is as well 

That's useful, thanks.

The screw hole centres look to be 8.5mm apart on the larger 1015 motors.

Has anybody had any luck sourcing the smaller motor?

The dimensions are approx. 12.0mm (l) x 9.5m (w) x 7.5mm

Screw hole centres 7.5mm apart

Shafts at either end 7mm

Quote from: Greygreaser on December 07, 2024, 08:34:49 PMI've two UM locos to repair and they both look to need motors so i bought these from eBay seller bee_studio in PRC. They came in 2 weeks and cost(inc a bit for postage) £6 for the coreless and £4 for the brushed. Buying just two the cost is below the vat/customs threshold so you only pay postage.
Coreless is 12mm Diam by 15mm long, dual end 1mm shaft, without any screw holes so will use epoxy glue for fixing.
Brushed is 12mm Diam 10mm 'thick' and 15mm Long, dual 1mm shaft, 2 screw holes at 8mm centres. Given the screw holes might not correspond this might also need gluing.
Max speeds at 12v look similar to the Tramfabriek motors but I might still need gears and I think some medical grade tubing to cut up for tyres. Think there's a size which is sufficiently undersized to 'grip' when stretched but not too thick to enlarge the wheel diameter.
I'll be posting my results after I've got all the layout electrics functioning.
Hope this helps?

A coreless motor still has brushes, what it doesn't have, unlike a can motor is an iron core, or poles in the commonly accepted sense. A brushless motor is something different entirely.