Coupling in public

Started by spot, March 29, 2015, 11:21:30 PM

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steve836

Quote from: PostModN66 on March 30, 2015, 08:17:16 PM
Quote from: steve836 on March 30, 2015, 08:06:11 PM
On my layout I want to run long trains in fixed rakes mainly, with shunting being limited to one or two shorter trains on the branch line. To this end I want to be able to run the fixed rake trains reliably without regularly leaving half the train behind (sods law applies so they usually separate in the tunnels ).
The other day, while looking at flea bay, I saw a loco, purporting to be N scale, with 3 link couplings. For my purposes this would appear to be the way forward for me. Does anyone know where these are available from?

Steve - 3 links are generally scale type couplings, which in N gauge would be super-fiddly, one for real finescale purists.

If you just want to avoid accidental uncoupling there would be much easier ways, e.g. using the Dapol "hooks" (Not Easi-Shut/Fits)

Caz- I too am using standard rapidos, but find them unreliable.

I would be intrigued to know about N Scale 3 link couplings - I would imagine you would need a microscope to operate them, but maybe I have the wrong end of the stick.......... :worried:

Cheers  Jon  :)

I agree that they would be fiddly, but as I would only uncouple for maintenance I could live with that!  The locos I saw were advertised as N, but it might have been a mistake.
I was wondering if our friends in the 2mm soc had a supply.
KISS = Keep it simple stupid

PostModN66

........well,

I would stick a largish rare earth magnet at the desired point of uncoupling, and modify the coupler on the lead vehicle of the train to have a magnetic arm (or just use a Peco wagon with an Elsie coupling and the steel lift arm attached).

I would guess it would work 99.9% of the time.  I was planning to use exactly this method on my new shelf layout but have decided to go Dapol!

If you have missed my coupler mod, here it is again...(sorry if you have seen it a million times before), and you can see the principle in operation on my Lofthole videos (again sorry if these are a yawn!  :sorrysign:) though for Lofthole the magnets move up and down as the loco has to couple up again from the same end.






https://youtu.be/lRa9gqsSMp4

Cheers  Jon  :)
"We must conduct research and then accept the results. If they don't stand up to experimentation, Buddha's own words must be rejected." ― Dalai Lama XIV

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PostModN66

Quote from: steve836 on March 30, 2015, 08:26:05 PM
Quote from: PostModN66 on March 30, 2015, 08:17:16 PM

Steve - 3 links are generally scale type couplings, which in N gauge would be super-fiddly, one for real finescale purists.

If you just want to avoid accidental uncoupling there would be much easier ways, e.g. using the Dapol "hooks" (Not Easi-Shut/Fits)

Caz- I too am using standard rapidos, but find them unreliable.

I would be intrigued to know about N Scale 3 link couplings - I would imagine you would need a microscope to operate them, but maybe I have the wrong end of the stick.......... :worried:

Cheers  Jon  :)

I agree that they would be fiddly, but as I would only uncouple for maintenance I could live with that!  The locos I saw were advertised as N, but it might have been a mistake.
I was wondering if our friends in the 2mm soc had a supply.

Found this on the web........is this what you saw?

http://mathiesonmodels.com/2mm-3-link-couplings.php

Cheers  Jon  :)
"We must conduct research and then accept the results. If they don't stand up to experimentation, Buddha's own words must be rejected." ― Dalai Lama XIV

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spot

There's much useful material, thank you all for your thoughts. The 3-link coupler on the Mathieson Models website had caught my eye and makes sense if I ever get to converting the default Rapido coupler. I'm coming to the opinion that what I want to achieve with a layout is something to photograph and film, with the intention of learning how best to fool a TV or photo viewer as far as scale is concerned. I'm pretty sure this must involve swapping Rapido couplers out once the layout is tested.

I had an initial look at the DCC protocol and it's flexible enough to address one end of a wagon and toggle it between couple and uncouple states. I've not found an electro-switchable coupler though. Working that way would remove the need for decouplers pre-positioned on a track, magnetic or otherwise.
Nullius in verba       ☎ |||||||||||

acko22

Jon,

That diagram you have put for converting the couplings it brill it all makes sense now :)  :thankyousign:

Looks like I have some drilling to be getting on with  :worried:
Mechanical issues can be solved with a hammer and electrical problems can be solved with a screw driver. Beyond that it's verbal abuse which makes trains work!!

PostModN66

#20
Quote from: acko22 on March 30, 2015, 09:41:58 PM
Jon,

That diagram you have put for converting the couplings it brill it all makes sense now :)  :thankyousign:

Looks like I have some drilling to be getting on with  :worried:

Thanks Acko!

Just to be clear, I think the Dapol system is pretty good, though it does have limitations (particularly the "delayed uncoupling" feature).  I am going to use this on new layouts.

My "REMIT" method shown above was invented before the Dapol couplers were introduced, so pretty much we had to make the best of Rapidos, but in my opinion it is the best way of operating Rapidos (as Port Perran wants to do).  The mod I have shown assumes you are starting with a traditional sprung coupler box - if you have NEM couplers you need a different approach; and it might be easier to just go Dapol.

This thread has god a bit complicated because there are about three different interested parties - and the topic of coupling is complex with the various permutations, but hopefully we can get a good answer for everyone!  :D

Cheers  Jon  :)

"We must conduct research and then accept the results. If they don't stand up to experimentation, Buddha's own words must be rejected." ― Dalai Lama XIV

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acko22

Well I have a lot of couplings to sort out and it's the cheapest way so I won't argue.

Although I did spend 20 minutes looking at them and thinking I have been had here at there is not metal but a picture paints a thousand words!

:greatpicturessign:
Mechanical issues can be solved with a hammer and electrical problems can be solved with a screw driver. Beyond that it's verbal abuse which makes trains work!!

RussellH

Quote from: port perran on March 30, 2015, 08:13:29 PM
Does anyone know of a simple method of uncoupling (not involving magnets/electricity)  where you want the train to uncouple EVERY time using rapidos ?
I'm referring to a situation where you have a branch terminus with a run round loop. I'd want the train engine to uncouple every time just before the point for the runround loop. Then the train moves forward, the point is tripped (electronically) and the loco runs around its train ready for the return journey.

This will be close (but not fully auto like I think what your after) & works with any rapidos





Russ
Repairs - not everything has to be sent away - you can fix most thing's yourself. Ask and help will be provided.

Waiting for the RTR version? - why not try a kit?

My layout, Bridgebury Gate now has its own website...
www.bridgeburygate.com

and the 3DR shop where you'll also find the NGF MPV, assorted cabs etc...
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/3dr_designs_for_n_gauge

acko22

Russ,

Ok 2 questions one where do you get them from? and what mechanics go underneath to make it rise and drop?

Lets make it 3 does it work with the factory fitted dapol and farish rapido fittings?

Mechanical issues can be solved with a hammer and electrical problems can be solved with a screw driver. Beyond that it's verbal abuse which makes trains work!!

RussellH

Here's the underside...messy but functional. Pull the rod - raise the ramp.




I cant claim any part in this - layout arrived with them on. plan is to upgrade using micro servos to lift.

Simple to make as Iv added one so I know they can be done - just find square section tubes that will telescope one inside the other, solder a flat plate to the top to make the T piece/ramp. Add your choice of raising mechanism (can be anything you want). Simple to mount in the board - drill a suitable hole to one side of centre of the track (then it doesn't lift both couplers!) and gently tap the outer tube in.

Russ
Repairs - not everything has to be sent away - you can fix most thing's yourself. Ask and help will be provided.

Waiting for the RTR version? - why not try a kit?

My layout, Bridgebury Gate now has its own website...
www.bridgeburygate.com

and the 3DR shop where you'll also find the NGF MPV, assorted cabs etc...
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/3dr_designs_for_n_gauge

acko22

Russ,

While you won't take any credit that is genius in it's simplicity! Does it work on all your rapido type couplings?

I have to have an attempt now  :thankyousign:
Mechanical issues can be solved with a hammer and electrical problems can be solved with a screw driver. Beyond that it's verbal abuse which makes trains work!!

PLD

If you are starting out, stick with the Rapidos at least to begin with. They aren't perfect, but are (almost) universal, (mostly) compatible between different manufacturers and won't be an additional cost...

When you decide to move on to something better for automatic operation, firstly is your stock likely to be used with anyone else's (e.g. on a club or group layout)? if yes, then the best option is to adopt whatever they use for compatibility.

If not then look at what is available. - look at what you see used at exhibitions, and talk to the operators for their opinions.

There isn't really one perfect solution. All are a compromise of:

  • Operational reliability.
  • Robustness.
  • Ease of assembly/fitting.
  • Need for modification of stock to fit.
And what suits one person may not suit others...

acko22

Thank you guys,

Personally as Jon has shown there is an efficient and reliable way to uncouple rapido type and since that is the default type on models I will stuck with that.
And then for the stuff that will remain fixed rake they will be fitted with close couplings with the end sticking as rapido to allow locos to could as and where.
Mechanical issues can be solved with a hammer and electrical problems can be solved with a screw driver. Beyond that it's verbal abuse which makes trains work!!

RussellH

Quote from: acko22 on March 31, 2015, 06:14:41 PM
Russ,

While you won't take any credit that is genius in it's simplicity! Does it work on all your rapido type couplings?

I have to have an attempt now  :thankyousign:

Works on any rapido Iv got. Worth a go - wont cost much to try - couple of concentric square tubes and some solderable off cuts of sheet.

Good luck!

Russ
Repairs - not everything has to be sent away - you can fix most thing's yourself. Ask and help will be provided.

Waiting for the RTR version? - why not try a kit?

My layout, Bridgebury Gate now has its own website...
www.bridgeburygate.com

and the 3DR shop where you'll also find the NGF MPV, assorted cabs etc...
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/3dr_designs_for_n_gauge

Bad Raven

I had the situation of needing to decouple every time on my Cromford Wharf and Sheep Pasture Incline, pushing wagons onto the incline and extracting either the engine or other wagons not running that rake.

The easiest possible solution, and one that works every time, was a fixed ramp to lift one coupling half. If two wagons are going to run, the first recouples as they both pass the ramp. I tried transparent plastic but in the end shaped Plastrut wide enough only to operate the one half worked so well I left it.
Dave

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