Hello,
could I fit the Peco 9ft Chassi to the 2mm Association Mineral Wagon kits, which could be bought at the N gauge Society Shop?
yours
Markus
I've simply put n-gauge axles (Parkside Dundas) into the 2mm SA chassis and they run fine...
Assuming however your aim is to avoid having to assemble the etched brass 2mm chassis, IIRC the Peco chassis is a bit longer over headstocks so you will need to trim/file the side members of the peco chassis kit before assembly which could be a chalenge to keep it even and square...
Paul
Hello Paul,
thank you for your answer. The problem is that I'm not a member of the 2mm Association, so I could only
purchase the body kits for from the N Gauge Society Shop.
Markus
Quote from: McRuss on November 16, 2012, 07:56:24 AM
Hello,
could I fit the Peco 9ft Chassi to the 2mm Association Mineral Wagon kits, which could be bought at the N gauge Society Shop?
yours
Markus
I did this a few years back with no particular problems. Now that I have changed to using 2mm 2FS track/wheel standards I have simply popped some suitable 2mm wheelsets in them. They don't look too bad either way. However there is no doubt that the 2mm etched chassis looks far better under these bodies, although I don't know how you would use Parkside Dundas wheels in them as the axle lengths are wrong, (15mm when the chassis needs 12.25mm ones).
Unless you already have the bodies to build I would say the latest Farish 16T minerals are better. The new bodies are to scale and only fractionally bigger than the 2mm 16T ones while the chassis is very good, miles better than the Peco.
Izzy
I have bought the etch to convert the 2mm society 16 ton mineral wagon to the top flap door version.
These look like letter boxes, but they are not symmetrical, one of the long sides being thicker than the other.
Does anyone know whether the thickest side should be at the top or the bottom ?
Thanks in advance,
Joe
Quote from: McRuss on November 16, 2012, 07:56:24 AM
Hello,
could I fit the Peco 9ft Chassi to the 2mm Association Mineral Wagon kits, which could be bought at the N gauge Society Shop?
yours
Markus
Hi
Yes it is possible and I have done this for around twenty mineral wagons. As has been mentioned by others you will need to shorten the chassis length.
One thing to be aware of is that there will also be a difference in size so don't mix for example Peco and 2mm mineral wagons of the same type in the same train.
Cheers
Paul
Quote from: joe cassidy on July 05, 2022, 02:12:44 PM
I have bought the etch to convert the 2mm society 16 ton mineral wagon to the top flap door version.
These look like letter boxes, but they are not symmetrical, one of the long sides being thicker than the other.
Does anyone know whether the thickest side should be at the top or the bottom ?
Thanks in advance,
Joe
Hi
Thick bar at the top.
Cheers
Paul
Thanks a lot Paul.
I built some a few years ago using the Peco 9ft steel chassis. There is more here: https://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?p=123318#p123318 (https://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?p=123318#p123318).
Peter
I thought I would let you know about my experiences with the 2mm Association BR diagram 1/108 16 ton mineral wagon kit.
I ordered 10 kits, expecting them all to be the rebodied version, without the top/cupboard door.
I received 5 kits for the rebodied version and, unexpectedly, 5 kits for the original version, the existence of which I was unaware and is not mentioned on the 2mm Association shop website.
The main difference between the original and rebodied versions is not the presence/absence of the "cupboard doors" but the square section that forms a "rim" on top of the wagon sides.
On the rebodied version this is continuous, around all 4 sides of the wagon, but on the original version the rim stops over the side doors.
You can buy etched "cupboard doors" from the 2mm Association shop to backdate a rebodied wagon to an original version but, for this to be convincing, you need to firstly reduce the thickness of the rim above the doors by filing/carving.
I hope someone might find this useful.
If you do buy the 2mm Association kit, don't forget to order the buffers at the same time !
Finally, I would like to thank the guys who run the 2mm Association shops - they are more efficient than some of the boxshifters.