Having hard time getting track plans as a complete noob.

[Grassyfield]

I'm really confused with curve easements...say i want a half circle connecting to a straight for a loop using peco, am i going to be able to make that half circle  a better more correct easement with flex track, or can i get the exact same correct easement with settrack using bigger radius for the start of bothh ends?.


Thank you very much .

[PLD]

I'm really confused with curve easements...say i want a half circle connecting to a straight for a loop using peco, am i going to be able to make that half circle  a better more correct easement with flex track, or can i get the exact same correct easement with settrack using bigger radius for the start of both ends?.


Thank you very much .

To be honest, if you are concerned about prototype fidelity of curve easements etc, sectional track systems aren't really the right option for you...

[Grassyfield]

I'm really confused with curve easements...say i want a half circle connecting to a straight for a loop using peco, am i going to be able to make that half circle  a better more correct easement with flex track, or can i get the exact same correct easement with settrack using bigger radius for the start of both ends?.


Thank you very much .

To be honest, if you are concerned about prototype fidelity of curve easements etc, sectional track systems aren't really the right option for you...

Yeah i think you're right, thanks.


Is it most common to do most or all the curve in flex track, or to combine some of it with the set? or cut the flex in to some sections, because if it's a small radius im not sure how well that works with it using a single track for most or all of it.. Cheers man

[ntpntpntp]

@Grassyfield as per my earlier photo of the return loop, you'll get a smoother transition / easement curve using flexi track than you will using larger radii of sectional track. 

As @PLD says if things like transition curves are high on your list of features then going with Streamline points and flexi are the way to go.   

On the other hand, as you're a self-confessed a newbie I'd still recommend playing with something like Unitrack to begin with, while you work out a track plan which suits your available space. You're bound to change your mind a few times and Unitrack is better suited to repeated changes than Peco Setrack (and definitely better suited than Streamline)      Your baseboard size at 3x5 will require quite tight curves which are easier to create using sectional track than trying to fight with flexi. To be honest a small baseboard such as 3x5 isn't very condusive to incorporating flowing trackwork and transition curves.

This is all Streamline code 55 at the front, code 80 in the storage yard, but is almost 13' long and 38" total depth.

[Grassyfield]

@Grassyfield as per my earlier photo of the return loop, you'll get a smoother transition / easement curve using flexi track than you will using larger radii of sectional track. 

As @PLD says if things like transition curves are high on your list of features then going with Streamline points and flexi are the way to go.   

On the other hand, as you're a self-confessed a newbie I'd still recommend playing with something like Unitrack to begin with, while you work out a track plan which suits your available space. You're bound to change your mind a few times and Unitrack is better suited to repeated changes than Peco Setrack (and definitely better suited than Streamline)      Your baseboard size at 3x5 will require quite tight curves which are easier to create using sectional track than trying to fight with flexi. To be honest a small baseboard such as 3x5 isn't very condusive to incorporating flowing trackwork and transition curves.

This is all Streamline code 55 at the front, code 80 in the storage yard, but is almost 13' long and 38" total depth.

Interesting, i could make it slightly bigger to incorporate a better easement. Is it normal to use a single flex track for the whole half, or better do it do it some sections? or combine little bit of settrack. Epic photos also!!. Cheers.

[ntpntpntp]

Is it normal to use a single flex track for the whole half, or better do it do it some sections? or combine little bit of settrack.

Yes I would always recommend using a single length of flexi track around an entire curve if you can, otherwise you end up with problems at the joints.  People find they have to solder the joints and joiners to create a strong joint that will flow with the curve and not dog-leg. Soldering track joints is not something I'm keen on doing, I prefer to allow joints to expand a little with temperature.    Hence the comments by myself and others suggesting use sectional track for tight curves, they're pre-moulded and pre-stressed so you don't have to fight against the curve as you do with flexi track.

In my photo above, the hidden tight curves at each end of the layout are formed from single pieces of flexi either side of the natural join where the baseboards split at the backscene. That's different to my return loop board which uses sectional track to get round the full balloon shape.

PS - no need to quote entire posts, just quote the post  into the editor and delete stuff to leave just the text you're actually replying to?

[Grassyfield]

My bad , and thank you appreciate your help alot.

[Grassyfield]

@ntpntpntp This seems like it is easy to know but i cant figure it out. How do u know at what point you are going to tight exactly?. Also with kato unitrack, that has easement tracks and is easy to put together, and you can still ballast over the bed to give it a realistic look etc, but you mentioned they joined parts can be a bit loose. Can this be fixed by just having the tracks glued down nicely?, thank you.

[ntpntpntp]

You mean too tight for flexi track? You can certainly bend the stuff down to 9" radius (and probably less) but it becomes harder to get a smooth curve and you may need to make a few extra cuts in the sleeper webbing. The tighter you go the more the inner rail becomes longer than the outer rail and will need cutting back to length.  With the code 55 flexi there are apparently some arrow markings underneath which indicate which way the stuff is designed to bend down to the tightest radii, but to be honest I never took any notice and just used the track as it comes. I don't think the code 80 flexi has similar markings or design restrictions. 

I must admit I'm not familiar with the Unitrack easement pieces and I don't have any. I just took a quick look at a youtube video and they seem to be intended for transition into and out of super-elevated curves?

Yes I found with Unitrack that the ease of rapid assembly/disassembly with the special Unijoiners means those joiners can be a little loose and create joints with slight height mismatches.  It's only a tiny amount and probably doesn't bother many folk who use the system, but to me it's noticeably worse than I see with a tight fit track system such as Peco and most other brands. I've had models get stuck at the rough joints due to low hanging brake shoes or sanding pipes. I'm sure the Unitrack joints can be perfected if the track is properly and accurately secured to a base (either by screws, glue, or double-sided tape).   

[Newportnobby]

Haha my bad... So i want the size to be 3x5 just like this size on this video here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvinQ1kwzMY&t=621s just the size though i want same lay out.

Sorry, but I read this as you wanting the same track plan as in the vid which prompted me to suggest Unitrack would be the easiest option.
Why? Because Kato do the necessary scissors crossing and also do the elevated track sections contained in the plan.

If the track plan is not what you're after then just ignore this post.

[Steven B]

@Grassyfield buy yourself one of these track-packs
Peco ST-300 - 1st Radius set-track starter set
Peco ST-301 - 2nd Radius set-track starter set

Then add one or two of SL-300 and a medium radius point (e.g. SL-396 or SL-E396).

Once you've got them, have a play before deciding what to do next.

Steven B

[Grassyfield]

@Newportnobby It's no problem Sir, i should be more clear. I was actually thinking about those exact tracks at first, but then i decided ill just do roughly the same size as that layout with peco, but now im not too sure really what to do really. I would love to just buy that track and follow that but couple of comments have put me off it, although i understand it is possible to probably get around most of these things. Like covering the bed with ballast and gluing every thing down in a permanent way so there is no looseness at all or height difference with the rail.


@ntpntpntp Excuse me NTP - if was to use unitrack like im saying in permanent way where its only connected together once and is brand new track, do u think what your saying is more unlikely?. Thank you!!!!

@ Steven B Thank you so much i will look in to that now.

[Bealman]

You know what? Just start building like I did.

Otherwise your life goes by 

[ntpntpntp]

Excuse me NTP - if was to use unitrack like im saying in permanent way where its only connected together once and is brand new track, do u think what your saying is more unlikely?. Thank you!!!!

It's not so much whether the Unitrack is brand new, I'm sure it's just a case of being aware of the difference in design and taking care when securing the track to the board.  As I say, the slight bumps I find in the joints probably don't bother most people but because I only use Unitrack for temporary set-ups for servicing and testing I'm observing the loco closely and I do notice it compared to my Peco or the Fleischmann, Minitrix, Ibertren track of which I also have examples in complete train sets.  When I set up one of those sets on a table-top they are always smooth and tight joints.

Don't be put off Unitrack just by what I'm saying, it's still a clever system worth you buying and playing with some to get a feel for it and whether or not you might prefer it to Peco etc.  The good thing is if you decide Unitrack isn't for you then I get the impression it holds its value as used track better than other brands due to the robustness.  So often you see second-hand Peco etc. and it's got bent joiners, broken sleepers etc. where it was pinned to a board, old ballast etc. stuck to it.  That's a reason I won't buy second-hand track (especially pointwork) other than boxed unused/surplus stuff that I can be sure hasn't been messed with.

As @Bealman says, go buy some track and have a play

[Grassyfield]

Awesome, well that's all my questions i can think of haha, you have all been extremely kind and helpful, thank you all so much for all your time it has really helped a large amount.

Cheers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!