Quote from: Grassyfield on Yesterday at 11:29:18 AM

Quote from: steadfast on Yesterday at 08:28:12 AMRTR models are not varnished in the factory. They are painted, then tampo printed with the livery details.

Thinners can remove the tampo printing (handy for renumbering or rebranding) so I always seal with a coat of varnish before weathering.

Oil paints and enamels are very different beasts. Both use an oil based carrier, but they behave in different ways - I recommended some research into oil paint weathering via Google and YouTube if this is something that you want to try. The beauty of oils is their slow drying time and the ability to blend them nicely.

Enamels can be used for weathering too, as can acrylics but each have pros and cons and different ways of working. Again, YouTube and Google well worth a look, especially some of the foreign and non railway modelling. The aircraft and military modellers do some amazing techniques.

I've just found this as a good starting point explaining about washes.
https://youtu.be/hYHF8xKj1Ug?si=JwdvIqWoIYLFbADj

Jo

I thought and ahve herd that the locos do have a factory finish on them  to protect to them handling are u sure about that, i guess RTR means ready to run.

Factory finish refers to the paint and printing on the model. If they were varnished, you wouldn't be able to renumber locos by scratching the number off with a fingernail or cocktail stick. Bachmann printing comes off particularly easily, whilst Dapol is the opposite extreme and can be harder wearing than the surrounding paint. On various makes of models, I have never had to sand through varnish to renumber. Additionally, I've had thinners accidentally remove the tampo printing when weathering, so it's definitely not sealed with varnish.

Jo

Quote from: Grassyfield on Yesterday at 11:26:51 AM

Quote from: steadfast on Yesterday at 08:28:12 AMRTR models are not varnished in the factory. They are painted, then tampo printed with the livery details.

Thinners can remove the tampo printing (handy for renumbering or rebranding) so I always seal with a coat of varnish before weathering.

Oil paints and enamels are very different beasts. Both use an oil based carrier, but they behave in different ways - I recommended some research into oil paint weathering via Google and YouTube if this is something that you want to try. The beauty of oils is their slow drying time and the ability to blend them nicely.

Enamels can be used for weathering too, as can acrylics but each have pros and cons and different ways of working. Again, YouTube and Google well worth a look, especially some of the foreign and non railway modelling. The aircraft and military modellers do some amazing techniques.

I've just found this as a good starting point explaining about washes.
https://youtu.be/hYHF8xKj1Ug?si=JwdvIqWoIYLFbADj

Jo

I dont get it, would i use enamel thinner on oil paints or only on enamel paints?.

Me personally I use white spirit for enamels, and Sansodor (a low odour turpentine style thinner) for oils, but you can use white spirit with oils, like in the video I linked previously.

Sansodor is a gentler solvent than white spririt, so less risk of attacking underlying finishes. I've seen people on YouTube using it to clean up after using enamel washes, so works with them too.

Whilst oils and enamels both use oil based products as their carriers, they are very different products.

Jo

Quote from: Newportnobby on Yesterday at 11:44:36 AMFor me, the best era of Jethro Tull with this super concert finishing with their signature "Wind Up/Locomotive Breath/Dambusters March". I saw them 3 or 4 times at this point, and also with the "Broadsword" tour and the "A" tour but always considered this the best........

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLeVVPJRFgUTPF_pvfa3-Gd0ptojgL30wN

I saw JT three or four times when I was MUCH younger but mainly because my mates dragged me along.
They were a band I never took to at all I'm afraid.
Each to their own though.

Quote from: Newportnobby on Yesterday at 11:44:36 AMFor me, the best era of Jethro Tull with this super concert finishing with their signature "Wind Up/Locomotive Breath/Dambusters March". I saw them 3 or 4 times at this point, and also with the "Broadsword" tour and the "A" tour but always considered this the best........

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLeVVPJRFgUTPF_pvfa3-Gd0ptojgL30wN

Good memories, my first year of Uni

For me, the best era of Jethro Tull with this super concert finishing with their signature "Wind Up/Locomotive Breath/Dambusters March". I saw them 3 or 4 times at this point, and also with the "Broadsword" tour and the "A" tour but always considered this the best........

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLeVVPJRFgUTPF_pvfa3-Gd0ptojgL30wN

Quote from: steadfast on Yesterday at 08:28:12 AMRTR models are not varnished in the factory. They are painted, then tampo printed with the livery details.

Thinners can remove the tampo printing (handy for renumbering or rebranding) so I always seal with a coat of varnish before weathering.

Oil paints and enamels are very different beasts. Both use an oil based carrier, but they behave in different ways - I recommended some research into oil paint weathering via Google and YouTube if this is something that you want to try. The beauty of oils is their slow drying time and the ability to blend them nicely.

Enamels can be used for weathering too, as can acrylics but each have pros and cons and different ways of working. Again, YouTube and Google well worth a look, especially some of the foreign and non railway modelling. The aircraft and military modellers do some amazing techniques.

I've just found this as a good starting point explaining about washes.
https://youtu.be/hYHF8xKj1Ug?si=JwdvIqWoIYLFbADj

Jo

I thought and ahve herd that the locos do have a factory finish on them  to protect to them handling are u sure about that, i guess RTR means ready to run.

Quote from: steadfast on Yesterday at 08:28:12 AMRTR models are not varnished in the factory. They are painted, then tampo printed with the livery details.

Thinners can remove the tampo printing (handy for renumbering or rebranding) so I always seal with a coat of varnish before weathering.

Oil paints and enamels are very different beasts. Both use an oil based carrier, but they behave in different ways - I recommended some research into oil paint weathering via Google and YouTube if this is something that you want to try. The beauty of oils is their slow drying time and the ability to blend them nicely.

Enamels can be used for weathering too, as can acrylics but each have pros and cons and different ways of working. Again, YouTube and Google well worth a look, especially some of the foreign and non railway modelling. The aircraft and military modellers do some amazing techniques.

I've just found this as a good starting point explaining about washes.
https://youtu.be/hYHF8xKj1Ug?si=JwdvIqWoIYLFbADj

Jo

I dont get it, would i use enamel thinner on oil paints or only on enamel paints?.

Quote from: Ensign Elliott on July 24, 2024, 06:21:24 PMI do quite a bit of weathering, for myself and commissions for customers and generally don't tend to use any varnish at all.

I generally use a mix of airbrushed acrylics, enamel streaking products and panel liners applied by brush and the various powders here and there to finish off. I find the matt airbrushed paint usually provides a good enough "key" for any powders to adhere too. As long as the model isn't handled continually or roughly, I've never felt the need for varnish over the top. Any varnish often tends to alter the finished colour of the paint or powders.

The exception is on full resprays, re-lining or renumbering projects where thin a coat of gloss varnish initially applied will help the decal adhere to the model. A coat of satin or matt varnish once the decal has been applied will then help to reduce the chance of the decal peeling or rubbing off due to handling.

So do you weather over factory finish?, also what do you use for panel lining a wash? and what kind of paint.

Yep, G'day from Australia, mate, and welcome to the NGF! 

Was it a Kato #4 point?

Drifting off topic, welcome to the forum, John.
How about a post in the 'Introduction' section to tell us what you're up to in N?