Hello

For years I've had a junction where either the power cut out or a derailment. I've put it back together , with all of the track edges touching and no more gaps , and there is now a 1 inch gap. Do you know of   a manufacturer who has a produces a 1" piece of track. I'm using Peco code 80. I don't have a track cutter.

Regards

Peco in the settrack curved point set. May do it separately.

As a last resort if you have a larger piece you want to send to me I'll cut it down to whatever size you want. PM me if that's of use

Quote from: mojo on November 10, 2024, 05:58:12 PMPeco in the settrack curved point set. May do it separately.

The piece referred to is ST-43 and would be ideal at 22mm but it is not sold separately

Post a photo so we know exactly what the problem is? Eg. is it Setrack or Streamline (or are you trying to  mix the two ranges - they have different parallel track spacing).

Most people would simply buy and cut a length of track.  Doesn't have to be a whole yard of flexi, just buy a piece of straight Settrack and a pack of rail joiners.

You don't need specific "track cutters" (in fact I'm not a fan of them).  You can use a junior hacksaw with a fine tooth metal blade, an Xacto razor saw (again fine tooth blade for metal), or a cutting disk in a mini drill.  In short, tools which you'd expect a railway modeller to accumulate

If it's just one piece of track you can even use the edge of a small file to cut it.
Leave a litte space for small errors and file back to the correct length once the piece of rail is separated.

Jan

Very many thanks for the replies and advice.

 NTPNTPNTP - my layout is RTR and set track so no tools , so I guess that I have a train set not a model railway. But it keeps me amused.

Newportnobby ; Thanks, I'll sort out the size and will post a photo of the problem. The room is shared with my daughter's office so it may be a while.




Regards


Geoff

Hi Geoff,

I am cutting track at the moment , so if you carefully measure the exact length you need I am quite happy to cut a bit for you and pop a couple of joiners on so it will effectively be a little bit of set-track.

No charge ...... just happy to help.     

All best wishes

Kevin

 

If you do fancy having a go track cutting, I`ve got a few spare bits I`ll post if you PM me your address. A small file - emery boards will do - will tidy up the cut ends.

Hello Timbo66

That's very generous, but I have a few pieces of set track. But that's a good idea to have a practice run. I've now ordered a rasp file, but maybe also get some industrial gloves to protect my fingers.


Regards



Geoff

Quote from: geofff on November 12, 2024, 05:36:28 PMBut that's a good idea to have a practice run. I've now ordered a rasp file, but maybe also get some industrial gloves to protect my fingers.

If my definition of a rasp file is the same as yours, I think that will be too vicious. A junior hacksaw or fine razor saw followed by a fine cut file will be better, IMO.

Quote from: geofff on November 12, 2024, 05:36:28 PMI've now ordered a rasp file

Not the right tool for the job, a rasp is too coarse plus you need something to actually cut the rail. As I originally suggested (and Chris has seconded) you need a fine tooth junior hack saw or razor saw.

Thanks Chrism

I once got 11% in metal work test at school and I have not improved since. Thanks for the advice.


Regards


Geoff

For example this one (I'm not saying this is the cheapest option just one of the first that google found)  or a similar razor saw from another brand.

https://elementgames.co.uk/other-airbrush-items/x-acto/x-acto-extra-fine-razor-saw-set-carded


The important thing is the fine toothed blade intended for metal. You don't want the coarser tooth blades used for wood and plastic.

A set of small fine files to de-burr and square up the cut. I prefer sets with larger more comfortable handles
https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-needle-file-set-5-1-2-6-pcs/4474V

Quote from: geofff on November 12, 2024, 06:00:26 PMI once got 11% in metal work test at school and I have not improved since.

I didn't even do metalwork, but woodwork - and I rarely used a rasp for that.

For rail (any scale) a rasp is way too coarse and also has the wrong shape teeth - they are, generally, dug out of the base metal in a half moon shape, several teeth across the width and not meeting each other. They are intended for removing lots of material quickly, but roughly, and the job then needs to be finished off with something smoother.

A file, which has straight teeth running completely across the surface, is far more useful for most work in model making, not just for trimming rail ends - oh, and that rarely needs industrial gloves 

I only did metalwork at school to make new friends