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Author Topic: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)  (Read 5619 times)

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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #345 on: August 11, 2018, 04:49:29 pm »
@Leon
If you are using the Kato connectors to plug into Kato equipment, I would drill the holes to take the 1cm connectors intact, it would be a lot easier than 'faffing about' pushing wires out of connectors and then trying to get them back in place! The holes would be easy enough to cover over or you could 'plug' the hole once the connector is pushed through the baseboard. I have cut off the majority of my Kato connectors, as I have the wires wired to individual switches or 'choc-block' connectors, so I therefore only need holes in the baseboard to take the size of the wires.  Hope that all makes sense.


Leon, I agree with David.  By the way, you can often get away with drilling a smaller hole for the power feeds.  The 'Power Unijoiners' are not that big, nor is the little connector that plugs into the 62mm feeder track.  For the turnouts, you will need to drill a 10-12mm hole but this will be completely hidden by the track base.  I regret that I never had any success pushing the wires out of the Kato connectors and have resorted, on occasion, to the 'choc-block' connectors that David mentions.

John
'Why does the Disney Castle work so well?  Because it borrows from reality without ever slipping into it.'

(Acknowledgement: John Goodall Esq, Architectural Editor, 'Country Life'.)


The Table-Top Railway is a train set trying and failing to be a model railway.

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Offline Leon

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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #346 on: August 11, 2018, 05:07:35 pm »
@Leon
If you are using the Kato connectors to plug into Kato equipment, I would drill the holes to take the 1cm connectors intact, it would be a lot easier than 'faffing about' pushing wires out of connectors and then trying to get them back in place! The holes would be easy enough to cover over or you could 'plug' the hole once the connector is pushed through the baseboard. I have cut off the majority of my Kato connectors, as I have the wires wired to individual switches or 'choc-block' connectors, so I therefore only need holes in the baseboard to take the size of the wires.  Hope that all makes sense.


Leon, I agree with David.  By the way, you can often get away with drilling a smaller hole for the power feeds.  The 'Power Unijoiners' are not that big, nor is the little connector that plugs into the 62mm feeder track.  For the turnouts, you will need to drill a 10-12mm hole but this will be completely hidden by the track base.  I regret that I never had any success pushing the wires out of the Kato connectors and have resorted, on occasion, to the 'choc-block' connectors that David mentions.

John


I am 100% Kato track system, so if I don't receive more convincing advice from others in the next day or two, I'll be drilling the holes to take the connectors. Thanks to David and John for their experiences and advice. I WAS rather apprehensive about removing the wires from the connectors.

After a good night, and my previous message, I'm fretting about the tight fit at the top of the layout. *sigh* Alas, it's just not possible to have everything the way we want it. My Biss River station prevents the sloping hill over the tunnel that I'd hoped for. Passengers on the platform will be looking at an almost vertical wall. I'm afraid if I bring the line forward, everything in the middle of the layout will be too crowded - with farm house and buildings across the street from the station! It's tight as is, but at least I can separate the two features with scenery. Everything beyond the Biss River Station is imaginary, anyway, so why am I worrying?

Leon

Leon
« Last Edit: August 11, 2018, 05:11:25 pm by Leon »

Offline Leon

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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #347 on: August 12, 2018, 03:57:58 am »
I'm a bit confused about glueing models. Can I use the same glue for both card and plastic? Elmer's is supposed to be good for foam and corrugate board, so I'm assuming it's ok for Metcalfe kits, but I'm not sure if it works for plastic kits.

Leon

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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #348 on: August 12, 2018, 06:45:29 am »
I'm a bit confused about glueing models. Can I use the same glue for both card and plastic? Elmer's is supposed to be good for foam and corrugate board, so I'm assuming it's ok for Metcalfe kits, but I'm not sure if it works for plastic kits.

Leon
For plastic kits I use Humbrol Liquid Poly.  You just paint it on with the enclosed brush and it literally welds the pieces together.
With kind regards
Laurence
My personal website is a bit of a mish mash
www.innovationgame.com

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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #349 on: August 12, 2018, 05:22:07 pm »
I'm a bit confused about glueing models. Can I use the same glue for both card and plastic? Elmer's is supposed to be good for foam and corrugate board, so I'm assuming it's ok for Metcalfe kits, but I'm not sure if it works for plastic kits.

Leon
For plastic kits I use Humbrol Liquid Poly.  You just paint it on with the enclosed brush and it literally welds the pieces together.

Laurence, thank you very much! I think Humbrol is a British company, so the prices here are about double. Do you think this Testors product is about the same thing? It's less than the price of Humbrol and I'm at the point of watching my expenditures - still a lot of track to buy! https://www.hobbytown.com/liquid-plastic-cement-1oz-by-testors-tes3502xt/p524859?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkP2MofTn3AIVAVuGCh0SnQarEAQYAyABEgKf3PD_BwE

You've chosen to use the liquid, brush on, as opposed to the tube. Is there more than personal preference in your choice; i.e. quicker drying?

Leon

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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #350 on: August 12, 2018, 07:07:03 pm »
Pleased to endorse Laurence's recommendation on Humbrol plastic glue.

The brush applicator allows accurate placing of the glue over what can be a 'risky' squeeze of a tube!

Humbrol works quite quickly - about half the time of your plastic cement shown in your link according to Humbrols info:

https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/liquid-poly-28ml-bottle.html

Either product, I would think, will last a last a long time so doubt if you'd be breaking the bank with whatever choice you make.

HTH

Dave G

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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #351 on: August 12, 2018, 07:27:36 pm »
Testors liquid cement is fine - all Testors products are fine IMHO. The Plastruct and Tamiya liquid cements on the same page under 'Related Products' are fine too. The Tamiya is my personal preference, mainly because I find the square bottle very stable - spillages have the potential to be disastrous.

Which ever liquid you choose, please do heed the warnings about ventilation and ignition sources.
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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #352 on: August 12, 2018, 07:48:28 pm »
Which ever liquid you choose, please do heed the warnings about ventilation and ignition sources.

I AM a little concerned about the solvent in the glue. I've previously had some serious reactions to inhaling that stuff. I work in a basement room without adequate ventilation for using any kind of chemical, so I suppose I'll have to do my gluing on the deck (outside). Not the best solution, but plastic parts will probably not blow away.

Leon

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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #353 on: August 13, 2018, 02:00:18 am »
I continue to be confronted with new discoveries and challenges. Checking out Metcalfe's webstie, I discovered that they figure the average platform to be 4 inches. I've figured 1 1/2 inches for mine! I might be able to find a half inch, but I can't get close to 4 inches. I have the Peco platforms, and at their widest they are 2 1/4 inches and removing the smaller of the three sections, they fit my layout. I'm not sure where that leaves me with the Metcalfe kit, but my presumption is that there is much flexibility - otherwise, I'll be selling a kit and replacing it with Peco.

Leon

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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #354 on: August 13, 2018, 06:27:59 am »
I continue to be confronted with new discoveries and challenges. Checking out Metcalfe's webstie, I discovered that they figure the average platform to be 4 inches. I've figured 1 1/2 inches for mine! I might be able to find a half inch, but I can't get close to 4 inches. I have the Peco platforms, and at their widest they are 2 1/4 inches and removing the smaller of the three sections, they fit my layout. I'm not sure where that leaves me with the Metcalfe kit, but my presumption is that there is much flexibility - otherwise, I'll be selling a kit and replacing it with Peco.

Leon
With the Metcalfe kits, you can cut the platform surface to any width and shape you want.  All you need to remember is that you need to allow 10-12mm for the width of the carriage from the track centre, except on curves, but the instructions show how to make curves to fit the track.
With kind regards
Laurence
My personal website is a bit of a mish mash
www.innovationgame.com

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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #355 on: August 13, 2018, 09:07:39 am »
I continue to be confronted with new discoveries and challenges. Checking out Metcalfe's webstie, I discovered that they figure the average platform to be 4 inches. I've figured 1 1/2 inches for mine! I might be able to find a half inch, but I can't get close to 4 inches. I have the Peco platforms, and at their widest they are 2 1/4 inches and removing the smaller of the three sections, they fit my layout. I'm not sure where that leaves me with the Metcalfe kit, but my presumption is that there is much flexibility - otherwise, I'll be selling a kit and replacing it with Peco.

Leon

I looked at the Metcalfe website, Leon, and it appeared to be using a three inch wide platform in 'N' as an example of how long a platform the kit would make (seven feet).  I agree that three inches is on the generous side for 'N' so I looked at the '00' platform kits on the website and these suggested a three inch width as well!  I then looked at the package for my 'PN1 10 Red Brick Platform' kit.  On the back, it suggests a platform eight feet long by two inches wide or an island platform five feet long by three inches.  If you look on the back of your own kit, hopefully you will see this.

It looks like the website contains a slight error.  As Laurence helpfully reminds us, you can have whatever width you want.  I used 13/4".


Best wishes.

John
« Last Edit: August 13, 2018, 09:09:24 am by Train Waiting, Reason: Spacing »
'Why does the Disney Castle work so well?  Because it borrows from reality without ever slipping into it.'

(Acknowledgement: John Goodall Esq, Architectural Editor, 'Country Life'.)


The Table-Top Railway is a train set trying and failing to be a model railway.

I believe that train sets and model railways are fun.

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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #356 on: August 13, 2018, 09:10:45 am »
I continue to be confronted with new discoveries and challenges. Checking out Metcalfe's webstie, I discovered that they figure the average platform to be 4 inches. I've figured 1 1/2 inches for mine! I might be able to find a half inch, but I can't get close to 4 inches. I have the Peco platforms, and at their widest they are 2 1/4 inches and removing the smaller of the three sections, they fit my layout. I'm not sure where that leaves me with the Metcalfe kit, but my presumption is that there is much flexibility - otherwise, I'll be selling a kit and replacing it with Peco.

Leon

I looked at the Metcalfe website, Leon, and it appeared to be using a three inch wide platform in 'N' as an example of how long a platform the kit would make (seven feet).  I agree that three inches is on the generous side for 'N' so I looked at the '00'  :helpneededsign:platform kits on the website and these suggested a three inch width as well!  I then looked at the package for my 'PN1 10 Red Brick Platform' kit.  On the back, it suggests a platform eight feet long by two inches wide or an island platform five feet long by three inches.  If you look on the back of your own kit, hopefully you will see this.

It looks like the website contains a slight error.  As Laurence helpfully reminds us, you can have whatever width you want.  I used 13/4".


Best wishes.

John
Just as an aside, be sure that any buildings that you might want to add to the platform will fit width wise with plenty of room for passengers to pass without being hit by trains.
« Last Edit: August 13, 2018, 09:28:02 am by port perran »
It's you railway so build it as you want and run whatever you like. The only rule is - ENJOY :
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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #357 on: August 13, 2018, 04:23:51 pm »
Just as an aside, be sure that any buildings that you might want to add to the platform will fit width wise with plenty of room for passengers to pass without being hit by trains.

Martin, that's a very good point. Westbury (alias Wiltsbury) has numerous buildings on both platforms, plus the entry/exits to the subway. I stepped off Platform 2, when I was there, at 17 steps. Back in my Boy Scout days, a step was calculated to be about 2 1/2 feet. Someone can figure out the approximate scale width (I can't). I really don't have a viable alternative, if 2 inches isn't wide enough. There just isn't room for me to do much more. I'm about ready to draw a line and declare enough is enough and just build what I can and enjoy it. :) Life is too short, and at this point there isn't time to be a perfectionist.

John, I checked the back of the Metcalfe kit. My feeling is that three inches would be about right, but.... I don't give up easily, so I will probably reconfigure my track plan with AnyRail to provide a three inch platform - just to see what the overall impact would be. I might decide to re-interpret the goods station which could have been located on the NE side of the station, originally. It's photographed on the SW side in the 60s, but at some point the track on the NE side under the road was lifted and the tunnel removed. Martin hasn't been able to suggest what a double track on that side of the station (which also appears in a 60s photo) was used for. For my plan, it would work nicely for a goods station, providing room to widen the platforms!

Leon


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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #358 on: August 13, 2018, 04:29:35 pm »
Leon - if you look on the Metcalfe website, choose a building and click on the 'scale and size details' it shows you the footprint of the building e.g. the Wayside station is 60mm deep so wouldn't fit on your platform. This info might help or really depress you. Sorry!

https://www.metcalfemodels.com/product/pn138-n-scale-stone-built-wayside-station/

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Re: Westbury Junction 1938-42 (Perceived)
« Reply #359 on: August 13, 2018, 05:00:18 pm »
Hi Leon
Those double tracks you refer to allowed access to the up side goods sidings in the 50s and 60s. Goods traffic would use those rails to avoid clogging up the main passenger lines through the station.
I’m sure that “artistic license” would allow you to convert thar area to a goods yard.  Sounds a good compromise to me.
Martin
It's you railway so build it as you want and run whatever you like. The only rule is - ENJOY :
My Layouts -
Port Perran:- Trepol Bay:-

 

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