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Author Topic: Atso-Cad Models: Revised Thompson L1, Hawkesworth County and other bits  (Read 1382 times)

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Offline Atso

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Cab roof details added.

Yes, but that is far from all...

Offline PennineWagons

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How about a game of spot the difference (from the last picture)?



The two thingies hanging off the underside of the running plate are more detailed, and there's an extra whatsit underneath the cab. (One trusts that you are suitably impressed by my ready command of steam loco technical terminology.)
PW

Offline Hailstone

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Nice to see you are back on the County Steve, I note that the cut out in the right hand splasher is missing where the reversing rod meets the weighbar shaft, I like the sand boxes roof vents and vac pump.
footstep on right hand of buffer beam and Chimney next?

All the best,

Alex
« Last Edit: May 10, 2018, 12:57:15 am by Hailstone »

Offline Atso

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The two thingies hanging off the underside of the running plate are more detailed, and there's an extra whatsit underneath the cab. (One trusts that you are suitably impressed by my ready command of steam loco technical terminology.)
PW

The 'extra whatsit' under the cab are the sandboxes, as to what the cylinder under the splasher is, perhaps somebody better versed in Swindon practices can identify it (edit: ignore this Hailstone had already identified it!).

Nobody has noticed the additional details on top of the boiler/firebox - due to the complex shapes of these areas, I spend quite a while arguing with my CAD software regarding how to render these (or rather working out the softwares 'logic').

Offline Atso

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Nice to see you are back on the County Steve, I note that the cut out in the right hand splasher is missing where the reversing rod meets the weighbar shaft, I like the sand boxes roof vents and vac pump.
footstep on right hand of buffer beam and Chimney next?

All the best,

Alex

Thanks Alex,

I've not done the cutout on the splasher yet as there isn't a lot of material to remove there! I'm thinking about the workaround but it'll probably be a case of thickening the splasher (making it wider that it already is) so that a representation of the cutout can be incorporated.

The footstep on the buffer beam has got me scratching my head at the moment as I'm trying to decide how this can best be represented. On the prototype it is made out of sheet material and is very thin and, therefore, vulnerable on the model. The ideal solution is to just ignore it and leave it off but I (and I doubt you) would be very happy with this.

Chimney will get sorted but I thought I'd concentrate on some other areas for awhile and come back to it.  :)

Offline Atso

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I've lined the bufferbeam of the V1. However, as this is really general finishing now, I'll move this side of the test build to the 'workbench' section of the forum.

However, a quick peek here:


Offline Hailstone

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Nice to see you are back on the County Steve, I note that the cut out in the right hand splasher is missing where the reversing rod meets the weighbar shaft, I like the sand boxes roof vents and vac pump.
footstep on right hand of buffer beam and Chimney next?

All the best,

Alex

Thanks Alex,

I've not done the cutout on the splasher yet as there isn't a lot of material to remove there! I'm thinking about the workaround but it'll probably be a case of thickening the splasher (making it wider that it already is) so that a representation of the cutout can be incorporated.

The footstep on the buffer beam has got me scratching my head at the moment as I'm trying to decide how this can best be represented. On the prototype it is made out of sheet material and is very thin and, therefore, vulnerable on the model. The ideal solution is to just ignore it and leave it off but I (and I doubt you) would be very happy with this.

Chimney will get sorted but I thought I'd concentrate on some other areas for awhile and come back to it.  :)

I think you are right Steve, If anything I would prefer the body without the step, and add one bent up from thin brass (I have just had a look at some photos) it might even be worth having a chat with Peedie models to see if they would etch one as a detail extra in the way they did for the western pattern smoke deflectors for the Dapol
Britannia.
In any case I have stopped work on my County in anticipation of you making this a full product, and am now working through some of the whitemetal kits I have been acquiring. you can see the first one to be done on my workbench thread.

Regards,

Alex

Offline Atso

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Thanks Alex,

Given the need for a brass safety valve housing, I'm considering making this a 'proper' kit. I've got several wagons on the go which will eventually be a mixture of cast resin, etched and turned components so it may well be that the County joins these instead of the Shapeways shop.

With regard to etching, I do have some experience with this medium as well.  ;)


(Test built and photographed by Tony Wright)

I'll be adding this to my range of kits once I have a few more items available for relaunching the Atso-Cad Models webpage.

Offline Snowwolflair

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Thanks Alex,

Given the need for a brass safety valve housing, I'm considering making this a 'proper' kit. I've got several wagons on the go which will eventually be a mixture of cast resin, etched and turned components so it may well be that the County joins these instead of the Shapeways shop.

With regard to etching, I do have some experience with this medium as well.  ;)


(Test built and photographed by Tony Wright)

I'll be adding this to my range of kits once I have a few more items available for relaunching the Atso-Cad Models webpage.


Is this the first steps of "Revolution Too"  :D

Offline Atso

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I've been working on the rear pony for the V1/V3. On the prototype this is a radial truck but I don't think I'm going to try that in N gauge!

The pony truck was printed in White Strong and Flexible. This is about the only application where I think that this material is better than FUD/FXD as the part needs to have strength and flexibility but doesn't have to be very detailed. The axle holes were opened out using a 1.3mm drill to get a working clearance for the Farish axles while the hole to fit the pony to the rear lungs of the chassis was opened up to about 2.5mm using a square section file.



I made up the pickups out of some brass shim and soldered these to be piece of 0.25mm thick PCB (obtained from Eileens Emporium). I think soldered a couple of pieces of 0.35mm nickel silver wire to the PCB and used Araldite to attach the assembly to the pony truck. Once the Araldite had set, I trimmed the various pickups to length and fitted the wheels so that I could adjust the shim pickups. Once I'd done that I fitted the assembly to the chassis and gave it a test run.



All seems to be working well although the rear pony truck will need some kind of springing to ensure there is sufficient pressure on the wheels to guarantee pickup - I stuck a piece of lead to it for the testing. However, I do need to trim the rear overhang, where the coupling pocket can be fitted, back a little as it fouls on the rear bufferbeam at the moment.

Offline Dr Al

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Will this one end up available to buy on Shapeways?

Also, I saw your post on Facebook Re: D49, and reference to my two! I haven't made too much progress, but this is primarily due to my lacking of a B1 tender chassis to get the whole thing running - there's just been no wrecks about to pillage. I'm confident there won't be running problems once I get one - the front bogie will require a bit more modification to give enough side motion on curves.

The only problem I have had really is the tender body sides, which once the supports were removed, seemed hellbent on bowing outwards, enough that they couldn't be made straight again even with strengthening. I came to the conclusion the only credible solution was to remove them completely up to the lip and replace with thin brass sheet (which also will let me solder on attachment plates to allow a screwed attachment to the tender chassis. Cutting the sides out has proven tricky though as the material does seem brittle, so there's some repair work I'll need to undertake also.

The first loco itself is complete, primered and just needs final paint.

So if you see any junky Dapol B1s about, let me know!

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

Offline Snowwolflair

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I find a drill with a sharp burr used as a cutter is the best way to cut FUD if you can sacrifice one side of a cut.

Sawing can cause a split like a crack forming in glass.

Offline Dr Al

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I find a drill with a sharp burr used as a cutter is the best way to cut FUD if you can sacrifice one side of a cut.

Sawing can cause a split like a crack forming in glass.

This isn't FUD, it's a different material, from Steve's own printer.

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

Offline Snowwolflair

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I find a drill with a sharp burr used as a cutter is the best way to cut FUD if you can sacrifice one side of a cut.

Sawing can cause a split like a crack forming in glass.

This isn't FUD, it's a different material, from Steve's own printer.

Cheers,
Alan

It will be a UV cured acrylic which is very similar in brittleness.

Offline ten0G

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The County is being designed to fit the Farish Black Five chassis. This gives a good compromise between the wheelbase while obtaining the correct style of tender frames for the County. If all goes well, the body should fit the chassis without having to alter the metal block - although obviously, the Black Five's valve gear will have to be removed! I'll be adding a new cylinder block to replace the Black Five's one as well.

Could you please specify exactly what parts of the donor Black Five will be required for this conversion, thanks. 


 

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