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Author Topic: My new locomotive works...  (Read 27953 times)

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Offline Caz

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #405 on: June 22, 2018, 08:05:31 pm »
Every modellers nightmare, hang in there and let's hope the treatment gives you a little more control.   :thumbsup:

Offline Atso

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #406 on: June 30, 2018, 06:07:50 pm »
Fingers crossed that the treatment works.

I've been playing around with test printing the revised/updated L1 body.



This has been done on my B9 Creator. Usually, I don't like printing tank engines as, due to the way the printer works, I have to accept a loss of detail on the surfaces that are supported (i.e. the back of the bunker and rear spectacle plate). The loss of detail is complete and is usually accompanied by some serious warping which makes the print unusable as a model.

The solution is obvious, print the loco body in several pieces. However, whenever I've tried to do that in the past, keeping the mating surfaces of a sufficient quality where they are supported has proven impossible as well. It was a conversion with Alan Butler of Modelu that changed this. Alan uses the next version up from my printer and showed me some prints (locomotive parts) that he done with the mating surfaces printed straight off the printers build plate. Now, in theory, this shouldn't be possible but I thought I'd give it a go on my earlier machine.

It works but I've had to do some serious playing around with the printer to get the resin vat, build plate and Z axis lead screw all parallel with each other - I'm not quite there yet but getting close! You can see when I'd made the join at the front of the tanks but only because of the chip in the footplate valance! Unfortunately, to print commercially from my machine would not be cost effective at c. 15 hours print time (and another six hours for post curing) for one L1 but it makes the development side of things a bit easier.

Online CarriageShed

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #407 on: July 04, 2018, 12:41:23 pm »
The solution is obvious, print the loco body in several pieces....

No idea if this is a reasonable alternative for 3D printing, but what about a plain, recessed rear panel to keep the body structure sound and solid, and then an overlay with the rear detailing on it that is glued in place by the customer? If that's a viable idea then it combines the option of printing in several pieces to retain full detailing, but still leaves you with a strong body.

Feel free to shoot me down in flames :)

Offline Atso

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #408 on: July 04, 2018, 04:02:32 pm »
No idea if this is a reasonable alternative for 3D printing, but what about a plain, recessed rear panel to keep the body structure sound and solid, and then an overlay with the rear detailing on it that is glued in place by the customer? If that's a viable idea then it combines the option of printing in several pieces to retain full detailing, but still leaves you with a strong body.

Feel free to shoot me down in flames :)

Hi CarriageShed,

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, this would be practical due to the time taken to print on my machine - at 15 hours per L1, how do I value the machine's time to make it viable? The second issue is that the resin I use only really sticks to itself (and Araldite but not as well) which would make things difficult to glue together.

The L1 is destine to go on Shapeways but I have been experimenting with resin casting as well.

Offline Atso

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #409 on: July 06, 2018, 12:04:37 pm »
Hi all,

I've been considering what to do for the chassis for my A5 for some time now. Back in my earlier days modelling in N gauge I built up a collection of old Farish chassis (Poole and early Bachmann), coupling rods, etc. Unfortunately none of these provide the correct 6'6 by 6'6 wheelbase that the A5 requires.

Therefore, I've printed up a jig for the wheelbase (this really could've been made out of some plastic) and set about cutting two 2.5mm sections out of one of the old blocks using a piercing saw (the A3/A4 type I think). I then put some Araldite onto the joints and placed everything in the jig for about an hour before taking it off an placing it on the flattest surface I could find. This is the result so far:



Next up will be to do the same with some old coupling rods (soldered rather than epoxied!) for which I'll print up another jig (or drill some holes into a piece of wood and use 1.5mm rod to get the alignments). I'm looking to use some newer 4MT wheels I've got along with a 0.2MOD worm and wheel (40 tooth) along with a Lawton 8mm motor. Heaven knows if all this will work but it's not really costing anything to have a go.

Offline Atso

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #410 on: July 06, 2018, 09:12:50 pm »
A bit of progress on the A5 chassis. I've added a couple of strips of 0.25mm nickel silver to the sides to add some additional strength to the glued joints. I've also had a go at cutting some coupling rods to length.



Amazingly, this Heath Robinson contraption works and rolls very freely!  :o :o :o The nickel silver sides will be trimmed once the epoxy has had a chance to hardened properly.

I have hit one minor snag though. The gear I was planning to use has turned out to be a 45 tooth 0.2MOD not a 40 tooth. This means that the outside diameter of the gear is 9.4mm while the slot in the chassis is only 8.75mm! I'll be having a go with the dremel once all the epoxy holding things together has hardened.

Offline JohnBS

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Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #411 on: July 09, 2018, 12:27:05 pm »
Steve,
You're having fun with the old Farish chassis!
I've tried something broadly similar :
   First set out the new wheel centre(s)
   Then file a large groove in the underside of the blocks sufficient to take a  length of 1.5mm bore brass tube.
   File down the tube until you reach the bore
   Then Araldite in place, using 1.5mm rods and a sheet of glass to check alignment
For reinforcement and for cosmetic reasons, I add shims of 10 thou nickel-silver to each side, shaped to represent the springing and hangers (only worth it if you have open-spoked wheels)
If you are using the ordinary Araldite (slow cure) and metal to metal, then a spell in the oven will speed up hardening.
It is generally no problem to grind/file out the worm gear slot - I have had to do this frequently to fit Ultrascale gears.
Hope that this helps.
Best wishes,
John
« Last Edit: July 09, 2018, 01:24:34 pm by JohnBS »
For more information see my blog: http://ashburton-and-totnes.blogspot.co.uk

 

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