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Author Topic: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.  (Read 37327 times)

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Offline Rich_S

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #540 on: February 18, 2018, 09:50:10 pm »
Come on guys! Man up and get on with some modelling - I want to read more! 😎
(*assumes dats and rich_s are guys*..)

Donald

  :hmmm:  Last time I checked, I was still a guy  :confused1: :laugh:
Cheers,
Rich S.

Offline dats475

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #541 on: February 18, 2018, 11:17:45 pm »
Donald!!  :laughabovepost:
How are you doing?  :wave:
I read that you've been busy with your life and family but how's it going these days?
Donald, Rich is a real man but let me get this straight.
I'm more like a Neanderthal man kind of man, you know.
So if you ask me "Am I a man?". Then the answer is yes and no.
Precise answer would be "A primitive man"!!

Anyway, I started working on lights again but not real progress so far.
I'm going to use key chain flashlights to light up my buildings but I need to modify the flashlights.
It doesn't stay lit unless I keep pressing a button.
So I need change to a slide switch (or something).
eBay sells mini switches from China for cheap but I have to wait at least a month.
So, I tried to scavenge a switch from my daughter's old unwanted toy.(with her permission.)
I dissected a toy and found out that it wasn't a typical slide switch.
It's a totally useless!
Well, I'll find something for it soon.

Ms. piggy, I'm sorry.

Ok, this is my question:
Why this one doesn't have a resistor? Or I should ask if I want to add one more white LED to this, do I need to add a resistor to the additional LED?


By the way, today I found out that if I stick a magnet to small screwdriver, I wouldn't loose small screws and it makes very easy to screw them back.



Andy, you're right!
I like the size of cable lights but some places need to be more brighter.
If I want to look right, probably  I have to combine cable lights and mini LEDs.

(Rich, I know. I messed up this ground throw as well.)

Dats - A living Neanderthal man. Cool!!
Best regards with my annoying moving signature.
  :drool: Dats  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxMwG2GNX3Va9AFLRaNH5xw

Offline Rich_S

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #542 on: February 18, 2018, 11:59:18 pm »


Ok, this is my question:
Why this one doesn't have a resistor? Or I should ask if I want to add one more white LED to this, do I need to add a resistor to the additional LED?


Dats


Hi Dats, why no resistor? It looks like the batteries are in series and I'm going to guess each battery is rated at 1 volt, so 3 one volt batteries in series would be 3 volts and that LED can handle 3 volts DC. You would only need a resistor if you added another battery, you do not need a resistor if you add another light.

Stated in another way, a battery is a power source. A light is a load on the battery. Too many batteries supply too much voltage and current to the light, burning it out. But the only thing that can happen with too many lights is they'll make the battery go dead faster, i.e. they'll use up all the batteries voltage. 

« Last Edit: February 19, 2018, 12:11:04 am by Rich_S, Reason: Hit the save button at the wrong time (rotflol) »
Cheers,
Rich S.

Offline mr magnolia

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #543 on: February 19, 2018, 12:09:24 am »
Hey dats and Rich - itís 10 past midnight here - so just a quick comment - you donít need to keep the magnet on the screwdriver - just stroke the magnet a few times in one direction down the screwdriver shaft and it will remain magnetised!

Thanks for the info update  - Iím sorry for your daughter..

Speak soon! (guys)

Donald
🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Offline Webbo

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #544 on: February 19, 2018, 03:23:30 am »
Hi Dats or should I say Fred Flintstone

You have 3 button cells there so I would guess that your power supply will provide something like 4.5 volts. If so this is going to be insufficient to run 2 LEDs in series. My guess is that the resistor in the circuit must be incorporated into the LED assembly as the circuit must have a resistor somewhere. If you want to run another LED you can either wire it in parallel with an extra resistor or you can increase the voltage of the power supply. Typing this stuff on my phone which is marginal operation for me.

Webbo

Offline dats475

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #545 on: February 19, 2018, 11:14:07 pm »
Hi guys

Rich and Webbo thank you very much for the battery info.
As usual, I haven't think how to light this up throughly.
I want all of my buildings to be removable.
(In my standard) it makes somewhat complicated.
I'll think about it more while Im in the bathroom.

Donald, I need to see your updates!!
And say hello to your family.
My daughter is just fine..... I think.

Ok, I added a few more cable lights.
I need to add more lights on the blue building's doors.

I'm lighting those with a flashlight which you can see in the middle.  (Orange one)
Eventually I'll hide a LED light inside of each building.
That's the plan. Actually it's more like a dream than a plan.
See what happens.

Dats
P.S. Webbo, I'm not cute as Fred Flintsone. More like a hairy grotesque ape man who always have a fly or two flying around. That kind of  type. Wearing no clothes either.
« Last Edit: February 19, 2018, 11:16:59 pm by dats475, Reason: P.S. added for accurate description of me. »
Best regards with my annoying moving signature.
  :drool: Dats  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxMwG2GNX3Va9AFLRaNH5xw

Offline texhorse

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #546 on: February 20, 2018, 12:40:29 pm »
Dats, can you put some clothes on before you start adding your comments on the forum please?  I'm sure there's a rule about that somewhere!!!  In the meantime, I think I've gone blind!   8)

The buildings are looking better with more lights on Dats!  Tucker still says that although he can eat his sandwich now, he forgot where he put his chocolate milk down, and he spilt it!  More lights needed, he said....

Andy, the suave, sophisticated man.
UK
Montrose and Highland Railroad



Offline dats475

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #547 on: February 23, 2018, 10:12:34 pm »
Hi guys

You're right, Andy.
No clothes posting is rude.
I go commando instead.  :claphappy:  :thumbsup:

Ok, I decided to use a Viper5000 ($0.99 battery box) to lighting up two buildings.
And I sort of finished installing them.

Modifying a key holder flashlight.
I connected a resistor first but came out too dim so I removed it.
According to internet, button cell is 1.5v and AAA is 1.5v.
I thought I can use a LED with the Viper 5000 without a resistor and it worked (so far.)


Modified flashlight tacked in.


Installed wiring through layout benchwork.
I used nails as connecting terminals so I can unhook and remove those buildings.


A Viper5000 installed on fascia.
Now I can control it from a flip of switch.
Please ignore a red wire sticking out on the right. The wire is connected to my zephyr and I'm too lazy to reconnect it through underneath of layout.


And lights are on.
Need lights on roofs and make covers on left building door lights.

Question1: As you can see, I used nails as connectors. Do you think batteries electricity would melt pink insulation foam and even catch fire?
Question2: In the future, I'd like to use Tamiya connectors or Dean connectors.
Do they work on my situation?
Question 3: Can I use a Tamiya or Dean connector for connecting an extension module to existing a yard module. I'm using an old Digitrax zephyr. Those connectors would adequate for the purpose?

I still have to figure out how to lighting up background flats buildings on my extension section but I'm tired of looking at tangled plastic cables so I might take a break from the project.
Probably I'll aimlessly do something else on layout for awhile.

By the way, you can bend optic cables with a hair dryer and you can secure them with hot glue. Surprisingly the hot glue wouldn't melt the plastic cables!

Dats

   
« Last Edit: February 23, 2018, 10:37:00 pm by dats475, Reason: Forgot to mention plastic optic cable handling. »
Best regards with my annoying moving signature.
  :drool: Dats  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxMwG2GNX3Va9AFLRaNH5xw

Offline Rich_S

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #548 on: February 23, 2018, 11:38:16 pm »
Hi guys

Question1: As you can see, I used nails as connectors. Do you think batteries electricity would melt pink insulation foam and even catch fire?
Question2: In the future, I'd like to use Tamiya connectors or Dean connectors.
Do they work on my situation?
Question 3: Can I use a Tamiya or Dean connector for connecting an extension module to existing a yard module. I'm using an old Digitrax zephyr. Those connectors would adequate for the purpose?

Dats
 

Hi Dats,

Answer 1: You're in luck, Pink Insulation foam does not conduct electricity, plus I don't think 1.5 Volts DC and milliamps of current is enough to melt foam.
                 Short answer, your safe.

Answer 2: Anything that makes a solid mechanical connection works great, that includes just twisting the wires together (but don't do that, it looks messy and they can fall           
                 apart.  I personally like Fastenal (disconnect) connectors. You use to be able to get them dirt cheap at Radio Shack, now you have to find an online shop that sells
                 them. When purchasing Fastenal connects, make sure you get both the male and female connectors. But yes, Dean's connectors will work just fine.
                  https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/58574?r=~%7Ccategoryl1:%22601280%20Electrical%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl2:%22601347%20Terminals%20and%20Wire%20Connectors%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl3:%22601349%20Disconnects%22%7C~

Answer 3: Yes, kind of the same answer as question 2. Remember, you'll dealing with low voltage (12 - 16 volts) and low amperage measured in the milliamp range. The only
                 time you can quickly generate very high amperage to the point where you can start welding parts together, is when you have a direct short. My Digitrax Empire
                 Builder passes the quarter test every time and your Zephyr should as well. What's the quarter test you ask? Place a quarter across both rails with the Zephyr
                 turned on and the circuit breaker should immediately trip. https://dccwiki.com/Quarter_Test   

 

 
Cheers,
Rich S.

Offline dats475

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #549 on: February 24, 2018, 12:24:36 am »
Hi Rich

Thank you for the information and links.
I've asked Tamiya and Dean connectors and sound like I know something about it.
But I didn't even know their existence until a couple of days ago.
I need a connector that I can connect and disconnect easily.
Can Fastenal connector work the same?
I searched on the web for a youtube video of how to use the connector but I couldn't find it.

Also, I've been wondering that the old Zeyphr has a circuit breaker built-in or not for a long time.
I don't see any information on Zephyr's manual.
When I experience a short, the screen a goes crazy and it doesn't immediately shut down.
Do you think it has a breaker?  :confused2:

Anyway, I like the fact the lightning system cost me only $1.98 total.
And of course, a labor of love. (my labor of love worth just about 2 Euro, I think.)
But those tangled wires are just pain in the neck to deal with.
Although hot glue made it quick process to install, got to be simpler and better way to do it.
The chance of me finding the way is a same chance as a monkey can figure out an automatic space trajectory of a Moon trip.

Dats
 
Best regards with my annoying moving signature.
  :drool: Dats  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxMwG2GNX3Va9AFLRaNH5xw

Offline maridunian

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #550 on: February 24, 2018, 08:32:00 am »
Anyway, I like the fact the lightning system cost me only $1.98 total.
 

Great project, well explained. I really loved the fact this is an after-everything's -built add on. My layout's on a solid base board with no wiring below (it's under the scenery -not really recommended...) but this has got me thinking about what I might retrofit.

Thankyou Dats!

Mike
« Last Edit: February 24, 2018, 08:33:45 am by maridunian »

Offline Rich_S

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #551 on: February 25, 2018, 12:48:06 am »
Hi Rich

Thank you for the information and links.
I've asked Tamiya and Dean connectors and sound like I know something about it.
But I didn't even know their existence until a couple of days ago.
I need a connector that I can connect and disconnect easily.
Can Fastenal connector work the same?
I searched on the web for a youtube video of how to use the connector but I couldn't find it.


Hi Dats, Here are the Fastenal connectors I use for my Digitrax system.



Whats the difference? Well Deans plugs usually have two wires in one connector and with Deans plugs you usually have to solder the wire to the plug bus. Fastenal connectors are crimp type connectors, no soldering required, but they only come in single wire connectors, so you need two connectors for each wire, a male and female connector.

Also, I've been wondering that the old Zeyphr has a circuit breaker built-in or not for a long time.
I don't see any information on Zephyr's manual.
When I experience a short, the screen a goes crazy and it doesn't immediately shut down.
Do you think it has a breaker?  :confused2:

Dats


From the Digitrax DCS50 Manual.
27.2.1 The Quarter trick
Take a quarter or screwdriver blade and
go around your layout creating electrical shorts by laying the quarter/screw-driver blade across both rails every 10 feet.
Your DCS50 should shutdown when the short is present. You will see walking ďoĒs on your display to indicate a short circuit shutdown.
When the short is removed, the booster should return to normal operation. If the unit does not see a short or it does not return to nor-
mal operation after the short is removed, then you need to add more feeders.




Cheers,
Rich S.

Offline dats475

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #552 on: February 26, 2018, 05:20:18 pm »
Hello :laugh3:

Rich, I'm embarrassed. It was there all along!  :doh:
I did the test but it came out "walking c' instead of walking 0.
I'm not sure it was completely shutting down or what.
It buzzed and walking c and start buzzing and walking c. It repeatedly doing this.
I believe I have enough feeders attached already. My layout is tiny so if I feed more wires, it'll be a feeder in every inch!!
Well, it works perfectly when playing with trains so I'll leave it alone for now.

Anyway, I'm vaguely thinking about learning hardwire a decorder on non-DCC ready locomotive.
I have an old Bachmann F7.
I wanted to repaint it to bloody nose scheme and put on a decoder for a long time.
I didn't have a chance to do it but Captain Andy theTexhorse came to the rescue again!!
He kindly sent me this.

Originally he sent it to me so I can change my GP9 to a rebuild GP9E number.
But I'm kind of scared of doing this right away.
Since my GP9 is one of main locomotives on my layout, I want to do a good Job on this.
So I'm thinking tackling Bachmann F7 first.

Now, my question of the day is "What's the difference between Digitrax DZ126 and Digitrax TL1?".
Looks like the size is almost same.
I like the TL1 because it's cheaper but I don't understand "1function" or "3(?) functions' stuff.
Can I use TL1 as a loco mobile decoder?

Thank you, Andy!
I'm excited (and scared) to change my GP9 and finally modifying F7!!!

Dats
Best regards with my annoying moving signature.
  :drool: Dats  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxMwG2GNX3Va9AFLRaNH5xw

Offline texhorse

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #553 on: February 26, 2018, 06:09:53 pm »
Dats, do not be afraid!  I've got you this far, I'll take you the rest of the way!

Renumbering a loco has to be one of the easiest jobs you can do!

Andy
UK
Montrose and Highland Railroad



Offline Rich_S

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Re: The Closet Branch - A layout in my closet.
« Reply #554 on: February 27, 2018, 12:03:31 am »

Anyway, I'm vaguely thinking about learning hardwire a decorder on non-DCC ready locomotive.
I have an old Bachmann F7.

Now, my question of the day is "What's the difference between Digitrax DZ126 and Digitrax TL1?".
Looks like the size is almost same.
I like the TL1 because it's cheaper but I don't understand "1function" or "3(?) functions' stuff.
Can I use TL1 as a loco mobile decoder?

Dats


Hi Dats, From what I can see on the Digitrax Website, the TL1 is designed to control one light only, no motor control, plus it has a built in transponder.

For your locomotive, you'll need the Digitrax DZ126. I've installed a few of the Digitrax DZ126 decoders. Just take your time, and make sure you insulate the motor from the frame and insulate the decoder from the frame. 

May I also recommend you get a roll of 1/2" wide Kapton Tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-Yds/dp/B006ZFQNT6/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519688987&sr=1-4&keywords=Kapton+Tape+1%2F2%22+x+36+yds

One roll will last you a life time.

Use the Kapton tape to insulate where you solder the decoder wires onto the motor.



Now the bad news. If you have the same Bachmann Plus F7A I had, "yes had" I sold mine because I didn't think there was enough room to install a decoder in the locomotive. If you have an unpowered F7B, you might have to place the decoder in the B unit and run the wires through the door windows into the A unit?  That maybe an option?


Cheers,
Rich S.

 

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