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Author Topic: LSWR Adams 395  (Read 4689 times)

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Offline Southernboy

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #15 on: February 21, 2016, 05:27:32 pm »
Just caught up with this thread - most impressive (and much of it beyond me!)

But out of interest, if I were to dip my toe-in-the-water: How do you go about gouging out splashers? Is there a particular tool to use for eg?

You also mention "...replacing the original castings with sheet metal replacements." For the uninitiated like me: How do you do that sort of thing / what tools are required?

Thanks,

Mark




Offline N-Gauge-US

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #16 on: February 21, 2016, 05:43:54 pm »
Wow! Looks amazing! It's really coming out nicely :) I can't wait to see what you do about the tender, as that is my biggest hang up with this model.  :greatpicturessign: :thankyousign:
Check out Avondale - My heritage railway themed layout :)

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29371.0

Offline Ricardus Harfelde

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #17 on: February 22, 2016, 12:10:05 pm »
I imagine you need good eyes and a steady hand to get to that standard

I make a lot of use of a daylight table lamp with a big 5in magnifying glass attached to it via a flexible stem. I find things awkward when I can't use this despite my use of a magnifying visor. Plus I try to do the fiddly bits with everything laid flat and held in place with masking tape



But out of interest, if I were to dip my toe-in-the-water: How do you go about gouging out splashers? Is there a particular tool to use for eg?

You also mention "...replacing the original castings with sheet metal replacements." For the uninitiated like me: How do you do that sort of thing / what tools are required?


I used a HSS  triangular scraper for gouging out the white metal from the splashers, I also made use of a Swiss Istor sharpener that I had for my gardening tools as it was roughly 2mm wide with cutting edges on either side so was just the right size for the job. I imagine an HSS graver would suit as well.

For construction I've been using the book “Scratch Building Model Railway Locomotives” by Simon Bolton (who wrote the Tilbury Tanks topic on this forum) as a guide. I've used 10thou nickel silver sheet, to cut this I use bending bars for the straight external edges & a piercing saw for curved & internal edges, which are then filed down. The soldering is done with an Antex 25W using Carrs 188 Sheet Metal solder & Red Label Flux for the larger filleted joints, & Carrs 179 Solder Cream for the smaller joins.

The spectacles were added to the cab front before it was soldered to the cab sides. This meant the rods (these were about 2in long) used could be laid on on the flat on a Tufnol block & placed in position with masking tape before soldering, which consisted of putting a small line of solder cream between the rod & the cab front & placing the tip of the iron about 1mm away on the surface of the nickel silver sheet. Once you get the hang of it it's a lot easier than one might imagine. It's the first time I've tried using nickel silver & it seems to be a lot easier to use than brass as it keeps the heat applied to a more localised area, so I was able to run solder up the inside of most of the cab front/side joint without the solder holding the spectacles in place melting

Likewise the lamp irons on the smokebox front were soldered using lengths of rod with solder cream on in the flat before attaching it to footplate (though one has since fallen off). I added a smoke box door sealing ring made out of 5 thou brass, this was cut to roughly the diameter required using scissors, a hole was drilled in the middle and it was placed on the mandrel of my mini drill and turned down to the required size using a file, and then soldered on.
Unfortunately at some stage the smoke box door shifted position as is not longer centrally located on this ring, but I think it will do


I can't wait to see what you do about the tender, as that is my biggest hang up with this model. 

You might have a long wait, I'll probably leave the tender to the autumn/fall so my poor wee engine will have to spend the summer hauling its monster tender around :)

Richard

Offline N-Gauge-US

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #18 on: February 22, 2016, 12:51:38 pm »
I can be patient! :)

Also, thank you for providing all of that wonderful 'how-to' information! I am carefully watching different scratch and kit building threads to learn some skills before I try my hand and this sort of this is incredibly helpful! The Tillbury Tanks topic is wonderful and if he has written a book, I will definitely buy it :) Thank you for bringing that to my/our attention!

Amazing work and thanks for the pictures and information!!!!

Check out Avondale - My heritage railway themed layout :)

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29371.0

Offline Southernboy

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #19 on: February 22, 2016, 07:44:40 pm »
I'll second that 'thank you' for the detailed and helpful information. I'll be following this one, and good luck! :)

Offline Ricardus Harfelde

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #20 on: February 22, 2016, 08:55:03 pm »
Thanks think I'll need a bit of luck as something is bound to go badly wrong sooner or later. Still, I managed to replace the chimney today without total mishap, replacing the Drummond one with an earlier stovepipe version to give the loco a more antiquated look  I used an NBrass "tall chimney"  for this with the top flanged bits removed by turning in the micro drill, it's only in temporarily and needs some more work on the seating


Offline N-Gauge-US

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #21 on: March 10, 2016, 12:08:11 am »
Thanks think I'll need a bit of luck as something is bound to go badly wrong sooner or later. Still, I managed to replace the chimney today without total mishap, replacing the Drummond one with an earlier stovepipe version to give the loco a more antiquated look  I used an NBrass "tall chimney"  for this with the top flanged bits removed by turning in the micro drill, it's only in temporarily and needs some more work on the seating




Looking fantastic :)

On another note, on your advice, I ordered Simon Bolton's book and wanted to thank you, as it has arrived today and I couldn't be happier with it or feel more inspired by it :) Anyone else who wants to scratch build but hasn't a clue in the world how to do it could really benefit from the skills he demonstrates in it.
Check out Avondale - My heritage railway themed layout :)

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29371.0

Offline Ricardus Harfelde

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #22 on: March 10, 2016, 11:17:01 pm »
Thanks am glad you're finding the book a good read. One thing I like about it is that that is does not assume much prior knowledge on the part of the reader unlike a couple of other books I'd previously looked at.

Offline N-Gauge-US

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #23 on: March 11, 2016, 09:17:04 am »
Thanks am glad you're finding the book a good read. One thing I like about it is that that is does not assume much prior knowledge on the part of the reader unlike a couple of other books I'd previously looked at.

I totally agree. He seems to give a good basic introduction to every step and to the skills involved and has an easy and conversational tone that makes for enjoyable reading, compared to the dry style normally offered by such books. Thanks again for the recommendation. :)
Check out Avondale - My heritage railway themed layout :)

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29371.0

Offline bigbadbadge

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #24 on: March 26, 2016, 09:39:40 pm »
Hi what great work. This is a fantastic thread and very informative, maybe one day I will pluck up the courage to improve one of my locos, but am not that brave yet. 

Thanks for sharing the helpful info and keep up the good work

All the best

Chris

Offline Ricardus Harfelde

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #25 on: April 06, 2016, 11:44:22 pm »

Am now nearly ready to start painting. Most of the pipes and other details are just in place  temporarily and will be removed before spraying. One change I made was to completely remove the white metal for the centre splashers which extended all the way across on the UM original, this has opened up a lot more space under the boiler.

I did mean to have another go at shaping the main handrail, but inadvertently soldered it in place when using it as a guide to locate the handrail knobs for soldering so never mind

The chaps in the cab are from NBrass






Richard

Offline N-Gauge-US

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #26 on: April 07, 2016, 01:02:59 pm »

Am now nearly ready to start painting. Most of the pipes and other details are just in place  temporarily and will be removed before spraying. One change I made was to completely remove the white metal for the centre splashers which extended all the way across on the UM original, this has opened up a lot more space under the boiler.

I did mean to have another go at shaping the main handrail, but inadvertently soldered it in place when using it as a guide to locate the handrail knobs for soldering so never mind

The chaps in the cab are from NBrass






Richard


Golly that sure is turning out beautifully! Can't wait to see how she looks painted up :) Thanks for the update!
Check out Avondale - My heritage railway themed layout :)

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29371.0

Offline Caz

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #27 on: April 07, 2016, 08:07:19 pm »
That does look nice, well done that man.   :thumbsup:

Offline simon.bolton

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #28 on: April 09, 2016, 08:59:33 pm »
That is beautiful work Richard, a lovely little loco!

Simon

Offline Ricardus Harfelde

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #29 on: April 09, 2016, 10:26:06 pm »

Thanks Simon

It's my first attempt at doing anything more than minor detailing and as mentioned above I found your book to be very helpful as a guide on how to go about it

Richard

 

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