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Author Topic: LSWR Adams 395  (Read 4693 times)

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Offline Ricardus Harfelde

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #45 on: February 14, 2017, 09:11:32 pm »
Thanks Steve

Fortunately I got myself a couple of spare Mashima 1015 motors a year or so ago for future projects, didn't realise they were going out of production. I did have a look for something similar in the recent batch of "cheap Chinese motors on eBay", but couldn't seem to find anything, agree the performance is very good, not sure how the new UM motor fitted to the Dean Goods and Dukedog compares to it.

I did a trial fill of the tender body today with lead & brass and got the total weight to 30g, which is about half the UM weight of around 60g. It can handle about half a dozen wagons, but doesn't like gradients or 9in/10.5in  curves. I plan to bring forward a plan to extend the layout by about 4in on the rear & sides to allow me to have a minimum radius of 12in and remove the gradients which should be better

I was disappointed to hear about your J6 tender problems. Another job I've got going is a new tender body for the UM LNWR G2, I've made the body out of nickel silver and the plan is  to cut off the original tender body & stick the new one one top, keeping the UM whitemetal underframe and chassis including the original wheels. I was assuming this would have enough weight to run reasonably well, but your experience seem to suggest otherwise. Will have to see how it turns out I guess. I suppose the problem with doing it in whitemetal is that the tender will be about 1mm or so oversize in width & height

I did think about the wheels as although the body has many flaws the wheels do seem to let it down a bit. I did try a trial split frame loco chassis using 2mm Assoc wheels (described above) which ran OK on 9mm gauge track. However the problem I've got is that I'm gradually converting my Peco Code 55/80 mixture to Code 40 9.42 mm gauge with c 0.8mm (i.e. N/NMRA) clearances on the flange ways and that the chassis will run on one or the other, but not both. What I might do when I've got enough 9.42mmm gauge track down is to replace the loco chassis with the 2mm Assoc wheels one, while keeping the tender one with its Grafar wheels.

I did look on the BR Lines & Dapol spares websites to see if I could see any spokeless wheel, but couldn't seem to find any. I guess I'll just have to wait for you to produce some nice 3D printed brass ones as part of your product range  :)

Richard

Offline Ricardus Harfelde

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #46 on: March 25, 2017, 05:07:25 pm »
Have done some more work on the tender adding underframes and top. Have added some beading to the top of the flange, unfortunately I hadn't allowed for the height of this when making the flanges so the tender sides are now slightly higher than they should be. The beading also altered the flange curve at the front of the body. Also made a mistake in making the body 0.5mm too short so the tender sides have a different aspect ratio c.w. the prototype. I also set the distance between the underframes to suit NMRA (7.6mm) wheel back to backs plus with the Farish wheels being 2.3mm wide the underframes are further out than I would have liked.

Made the toolboxes & coal out of lead, plus lined the inside of the body with it as well. Current weight is 39g (with another 3g to be added when I add the rear toolbox, axleboxes & other details) c.w 64g for the original tender.  It's comfortable hauling half a dozen wagons around, and can manage to pull a dozen wagons around a 9in curve though it doesn't sound that happy.





I replaced the pickups with lengths of phosphor bronze wire soldered to the tender body and which brush against the top of the wheels (just visible in the photo below). Found this gave a major improvement in slow running c.w. having the pickups brush against the wheel backs. It took quite some time to find the appropriate wire thickness (0.2mm) and pickup angles (c 20 deg). As can be seen in the photo the tyre pickups are prone to picking up dirt and need regular cleaning. The body is secured via a 10BA screw at the front with the sides of the motor mount being a snug fit with the lead lining the body sides




Another change was to remove the flanges on the middle wheels as these would sometimes foul the underside of the motor

The photo below shows the arrangement for transferring traction & current between loco & tender. Hollow brass tube was soldered to single sided PCB which was then glued to the tender frame. A length of phosphor bronze wire was soldered to the loco cab floor & bent through 90 degrees so as to slot inside the tube. Seems to work quite well

Richard


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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #47 on: March 25, 2017, 06:18:15 pm »
Looking great, Richard! You've got some neat ideas here for how to get things done. In particular I love your idea for transfering pickup from the loco to tender! Very neat little system :) and don't get too worried about .5mm. At the end of the day that's 3 scale inches. I doubt we would notice if someone shaved 3" off a full scale tender ;) Thanks for the update and keep up the good work!
Check out Avondale - My heritage railway themed layout :)

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29371.0

Offline Ricardus Harfelde

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #48 on: March 25, 2017, 10:27:08 pm »
Thanks Philip.

It took a while to get the loco/tender connection right, I found it only needs to be slightly out to get the tender pushed out of alignment so that you lose traction on the wheels or electrical connectivity from the track.

As you say the tender is only out by 3in or less horizontally and vertically which isn't a lot compared to the overall size of the thing and I had initially thought that it wouldn't matter, but it does seem to have a noticeable effect on the appearance so that if you look at a photo of the real thing there is a difference with the real thing looking sleeker


Richard

Offline Ricardus Harfelde

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Re: LSWR Adams 395
« Reply #49 on: June 30, 2017, 07:40:21 pm »
Some more progress ...





The decals are Fox LSWR Wagon ones, the cabside numerals are the correct size, but I think maybe the tender side lettering is a bit to big. It should also be a shade of green rather than white. Also I haven't attempted to do any lining.

The white metal axles boxes came from the 2mm Association and are for a Great Eastern Y14 / J15, I've modified them a bit to try to get them to look more like the Adams ones.

Hope to do some more work on the loco chassis sometime.

Richard

 

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