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Author Topic: Help with passing siding  (Read 2993 times)

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Offline ed goldman

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Help with passing siding
« on: February 13, 2015, 11:51:27 pm »
I am building my first Kato N gauge layout. I just made a passing siding. I have a feeder track on the main line. When the engine goes on the siding, it dies unless I turn the switch back to straight. When it gets to the other switch it dies again when it hits the main line.???????

Offline railsquid

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Re: Help with passing siding
« Reply #1 on: February 14, 2015, 03:34:21 am »
Can you post a diagram? Provided the feed isn't between the two points, it should be fine, unless I'm misunderstanding something.
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Offline Lawrence

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Re: Help with passing siding
« Reply #2 on: February 14, 2015, 08:53:53 am »
There are little screws on the under side of the points for setting the power routing, make sure you have them in the correct holes
this document will explain it http://tinyurl.com/mq8nuho

Offline ed goldman

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Re: Help with passing siding
« Reply #3 on: February 15, 2015, 12:55:52 am »
 don't think that I understand. I have a turnout on it backside and there is a silver plate. Do I have to take the plate off? also these are #6 turnouts,  Ed
« Last Edit: February 15, 2015, 01:05:07 am by ed goldman »

Offline DesertHound

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Re: Help with passing siding
« Reply #4 on: February 15, 2015, 07:21:16 am »
Hi Ed

What Lawrence says is correct. Before doing that, however, follow Railsquid's advice and make sure the feed to the track (the power feed) is not between the two sets of points. So, in simple terms, the power feed is fed in when it is still a single track, before the track splits for the siding / passing loop.

The reason I say this is that the points "should" come from the factory set to the power routing setting, so unless you bought them secondhand and they have been changed, they should be fine.

Just a thought before you open them up.

Dan
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Offline ChrisWV10

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Re: Help with passing siding
« Reply #5 on: February 15, 2015, 07:30:20 am »
#6 points don't have the power routing & insulating screw settings, only the shorter #4 points.

Your power feed should not be between the 2 points  in the section parallel to the passing loop but outside so that power feeds into the base of the point and can be 'directed' whichever way way you set the point.

C. :)

Offline Lawrence

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Re: Help with passing siding
« Reply #6 on: February 15, 2015, 09:38:06 am »
Ah!  you didn't say you were using #6 points initially hence my immediate thought it was a routing problem.  So your power feed needs to be on your mainline, you want to connect it just before one of the points leading to the passing loop, it doesn't matter which end, but it needs to be on the mainline not the passing loop.
What is also worth doing is connecting the two points to the same point switch so you operate both at the same time, this will guarantee that the power will flow either on the mainline or on the loop depending on how you have the points set.
If none of this works perhaps you have a duff point.  Perhaps a picture of what you have set up would help us diagnose the problem

Offline Bealman

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Re: Help with passing siding
« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2015, 09:46:30 am »
I know nowt about Kato stuff but it sounds Ok  to me..... harks back to me Triang Super 4 stuff. Power in the main circuit/ layout, switch points, and power goes into loop. 'Nuff said!
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Offline Railwaygun

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Re: Help with passing siding
« Reply #8 on: February 15, 2015, 11:28:36 am »
Kato do a splitter cable ( 1-3 way) so that one blue switch will switch both points simultaneously.

http://www.traintrax.co.uk/24827-3way-extension-cord-p-329.html


Power feed befor the points!

There is a Unitrack hints thread here - with links to useful manuals

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?board=131.0
« Last Edit: February 15, 2015, 11:31:27 am by Railwaygun, Reason: Urls added »
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Offline DesertHound

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Re: Help with passing siding
« Reply #9 on: February 15, 2015, 11:28:59 am »
I know nowt about Kato stuff but it sounds Ok  to me..... harks back to me Triang Super 4 stuff. Power in the main circuit/ layout, switch points, and power goes into loop. 'Nuff said!

Us simple folk like KISS Bealman  ;D

I didn't know that you couldn't fiddle with #6 points underneath. Thought I read something when I bought my M2 set (which came with #6 points) but in all honesty I can't remember if it was in that set or somewhere else, and perhaps it was relating to #4 points.

As an aside (very quickly and hoping it's not hijacking the thread - it is related and builds on what Lawrence said), if I want to be able to drive two locos into a passing loop, one at either end, could I use insulated rail joiners at the middle of the loop and just switch one set of points (to the loop) and power the respective train at said end of loop?

If I wanted to use it as a continuous passing loop then just switch both points. Think of it like two opposing individual sidings, which when both points are set to each siding, it becomes a passing loop.

Is that clear as mud? A quick reply would be appreciated (actually I will try it but it'll have to wait).

Let us know how you get on Ed - everyone's here to help - except Bealman, cause he knows nowt about Kato  :laugh:
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Offline Newportnobby

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Re: Help with passing siding
« Reply #10 on: February 15, 2015, 11:43:20 am »
Last time I tried passing a siding I ended up in hospital :laugh:



As an aside (very quickly and hoping it's not hijacking the thread - it is related and builds on what Lawrence said), if I want to be able to drive two locos into a passing loop, one at either end, could I use insulated rail joiners at the middle of the loop and just switch one set of points (to the loop) and power the respective train at said end of loop?


Dunno about Kato track, Dan, but many of us use that sort of system in fiddle yards where we want to hold multiple shorter trains. In such cases I split one rail with an insulated rail joiner and wire the separate bits of track through a simple push to make/break switch. I use Peco code 55.

Offline DesertHound

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Re: Help with passing siding
« Reply #11 on: February 15, 2015, 11:53:31 am »
Thanks Mick, I might do something like that on Ledgington in order to house multiple DMU's.

Sorry Ed, hope I didn't hijack the thread. As I said, do let us know how you got on and if you haven't found a fix them I'm sure we'll find a way in here!

Dan
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Offline ed goldman

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Re: Help with passing siding
« Reply #12 on: February 15, 2015, 04:19:13 pm »
First, thanks for all the help. I think I have it solved. I put feeder tracks at the beginning of each switch and it is working perfect now. I guess I just need more feeder tracks.

Offline Lawrence

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Re: Help with passing siding
« Reply #13 on: February 15, 2015, 07:24:11 pm »


As an aside (very quickly and hoping it's not hijacking the thread - it is related and builds on what Lawrence said), if I want to be able to drive two locos into a passing loop, one at either end, could I use insulated rail joiners at the middle of the loop and just switch one set of points (to the loop) and power the respective train at said end of loop?

If I wanted to use it as a continuous passing loop then just switch both points. Think of it like two opposing individual sidings, which when both points are set to each siding, it becomes a passing loop.

Is that clear as mud? A quick reply would be appreciated (actually I will try it but it'll have to wait).


I see no reason why not DH, although you would obviously need to wire across the isolated unijoiner through a switch so you can run it as a regular passing loop.  Best thing to do is to take a piece of track out of the middle of the passing loop and check you still have power at both unconnected ends when the points are set for the loop.

Offline DesertHound

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Re: Help with passing siding
« Reply #14 on: February 15, 2015, 07:42:43 pm »
Thanks Lawrence, I'll give it a go. The way I see it, provided your track is an oval (which mine is) then you wouldn't even need to bridge the isolated section with a switch. Whichever point you switched to the loop, that end would be live. If you switched both pints to the loop then the train would pass over the isolated joiner and continue. How does that sound?

As you and Mick said though, perhaps switches are the way to go, since I might put multiple sections on the loop, then you would definitely need the switches.

One of the basics of layout wiring, but an interesting one.

Dan
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