sticking on etched nameplates, depot plaques, double arrows

Started by bluedepot, January 15, 2017, 09:12:00 PM

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bluedepot

what do people think is the best method for sticking on nameplates, depot plaques, double arrows etc?

i have been using tacky wax - because superglue would cause damage unless positioned it dead right first time, which isn't going to happen for me.

i do get a bit of tacky wax 'smudge' though where i don't want it, even though i use a very tiny amount. i try to clean this with a cocktail stick but inevitably end up knocking the sign out of alignment.

anyway is there a better way???

i'm not too bad at double arrows and nameplates now, but I was just adding crewe diesel depot plaques and that really was a complete pain!  took ages and i still am not sure it will stay attached to the loco for long...

any suggestions for a better method much appreciated!!


tim

robert shrives

Hi ,
try using a dot of varnish put on the pack with a cocktail stick- a series of small pin head drops down the centre and never less than a 1mm from end should ensure no splurges- but a damp brush should allow teasing of varnish if you did splodge!!

For getting alignment I use a piece of tamyia paper low tack masking tape with this set in place so bottom of plate sits against it and then after 30 minutes carefully pull back tape - not a a great angle upwards but by rolling it back on itself much less to zero chance of any paint pull - it is low tack but always best to be careful.

For diamond plates two pieces set as a V will allow location. or one on the angle and a pencil mark for lower point to ensure correct location.- It is at this point you find the model has an error and the plaque looks wrong or the plaque is fractionally  bigger than scale ..... the old 47 cab was short IIRC! or some early plaques a bit big. Recent shawplan and fox not a problem it has to be said.

You could of course see Steve at Railtec for his 3D print transfer nameplates- not used them but look very good on some pcs of a 37 I saw recently.
Certainly in  the odd larger scales that some folk use they do look the part!!

cheers and have fun !!
Robert       

Shiney Sheff

I found that Micro Kristal Clear that is used mainly for liquid glazing is excellent, water based, so any excess is easily cleaned off using a damp cotton bud, doesn't set instantly, so allowing for lining things up. It's also good for the construction of greenhouses as when dry it's totally clear.

B757-236GT

Another vote for varnish from me too. Gloss is best as its stickiest however unlike many glues it doesnt damage paintwork. I apply the nameplate and then use a steel rule and clamp to hold it in to position. Normally for around an hour as it will have begun to go tacky by that point but still has a tiny bit of give if i need to move. Then just leave to dry.

Richard
You want the truth, you cant handle the truth. Welcome to the Fox news channel. (Andy Parsons)

Karhedron

I actually prefer matt varnish as if there is any overspill, it is almost invisible when dry. Gloss creates a shiny patch when dry if any of it gets where it shouldn't.
Quote from: ScottyStitch on September 29, 2015, 11:28:46 AM
Well, that's just not good enough. Some fount of all knowledge you are!  :no:  ;)

Bob G

I use pva or crystal clear - same thing really, except one is far more expensive than the other.

bluedepot

cheers for all the replies!

so just to clarify the varnish will just wipe or brush off if over spill on the loco side?

cheers

Tim

robert shrives

Yes that is the idea - use the type of varnish that suits the loco finish, if a spirit based then a wipe with a just damp brush loaded with clean thinnersto lift/ wick off any excess.
If acrylic then a dampened in clean water to do same trick.

I would suggest plates fitted before any weathering used so save removal and the making good that would result.

Robert     

bluedepot

cheers for replies

varnish ordered so will arrive soon i hope

tacky wax has been pretty useful, but varnish will hopefully be a more permanent and clean fix!


best wishes


tim




xm607

I use a no-nails type of glue, this gives movement and can be cleaned off before it has gone off.
Steve.

robert shrives

Hi
The use of glues has always been an option but clean off and removal of plate in the future can then be a problem as a bent stainless steel plate will never be truly flat again - so it is scrap.

With a varnish fix the grab will hold plate and  blade introduced on edge of plate will allow it to be pinged off - do this  in alarge clear plastic bag as it will prevent the carpet or bench gremlin collecting another plate..

cheers
Robert   

Dr Al

One tip if you are concerned about not getting in the correct place is to use masking tape (Tamiya) on the side of the model to letterbox where the nameplate is to go. This can be put on and taken off repeatedly until straight and positioned correctly. Then the nameplate can be more easily located, and if there is any excess adhesive (of whatever flavour you choose) that squidges out when nameplate applied it'll go onto the tape rather than the bodyside.

Works well for rectuangular nameplates/numberplates, though probably won't be so much help for double arrows.

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

"We have also arranged things so that almost no one understands science and technology. This is a prescription for disaster. We might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later this combustible mixture of ignorance and power is going to blow up in our faces."Dr. Carl Sagan

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