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Author Topic: DG Couplings Test Track  (Read 1551 times)

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Offline robert shrives

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #15 on: September 17, 2017, 07:33:43 pm »
Hi
I read a while back the idea of making the mount plate narrower and soldering a bit of round bar across it to make an NEM sort of mount.

Another tip is to ensure couplings always sit flat and avoid bending the working end as this will miss align the hook/latch and bang goes a working coupling. This might mean adding shims etc to get level.

I have a class 47 with DGs and the mount plate was glued on top of the bogie inner frame with evostick and despite the slippery plastic has stayed in place.

Robert     

Offline martyn

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #16 on: September 18, 2017, 12:14:57 am »
For Poole era locos, I used a razor saw at the correct height to cut a slot for the mount plate to slide into, and made doubly sure of securing it with a cut down track pin through the whole lot from the top of the bogie.
I use this method for both DG, which i used to use, and for B+B, which i have changed to-see PLD's post.
Martyn

Offline lil chris

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #17 on: September 22, 2017, 04:06:28 pm »
Great thread, I have D & G couplings plus some B & B coupling's bought from the n gauge society. I beleive both work in similar ways with the delayed un-coupling, I need to try them myself. Lots of information on this thread thanks guys, decisions decisions.....!!!!!
Lil Chris
My layout here East Lancashire Lines
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29492.0

Offline PLD

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #18 on: September 23, 2017, 12:01:10 am »
Great thread, I have D & G couplings plus some B & B coupling's bought from the n gauge society. I beleive both work in similar ways with the delayed un-coupling, I need to try them myself. Lots of information on this thread thanks guys, decisions decisions.....!!!!!
Yes - both work on exactly the same principle (and the two are to an extent compatible - coupling is usually OK, uncoupling can be iffy).
Basically it comes down to a choice between easier assembly (B&B) or finer appearance (DG).

Offline Ocean_Colliery

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #19 on: October 21, 2017, 06:19:42 pm »
I tried to fit a DG coupling to a Poole Class 20 using loctite but it kept coming off. What's the best adhesive to use for this? I want to join the mounting plate to the top of the bogie, above the rapido pocket.

Also I had an issue with the Seep magnet. I'm powering it from a Gaugemaster Combi from the '16/18v AC' output. I activated it for about 2 minutes after which it started smoking and burning. Am I better off rectifying the AC and giving it DC power?

Offline PLD

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #20 on: October 21, 2017, 06:50:44 pm »
Also I had an issue with the Seep magnet. I'm powering it from a Gaugemaster Combi from the '16/18v AC' output. I activated it for about 2 minutes after which it started smoking and burning. Am I better off rectifying the AC and giving it DC power?
The magnet should not be powered up for that long... 15-20 seconds should really be the maximum continuous. AC / DC shouldn't make much difference to heating, though you may find the magnets buzz if fed with AC...

I tried to fit a DG coupling to a Poole Class 20 using loctite but it kept coming off. What's the best adhesive to use for this? I want to join the mounting plate to the top of the bogie, above the rapido pocket.
I use a gell type superglue but rough up the surface you are sticking the coupling to. A couple of passes with a needle file will do.

Offline Izzy

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #21 on: October 21, 2017, 06:51:38 pm »
 I always use evostick. As it is a rubbery type of adhesive it is able to absorb the shocks of impact when the couplings bang against each other and seems more able to key to the various slippy plastics often used with these type of moulded parts.

I don't believe the seep magnets, like many other electro-magnets, are meant to be left on for any length of time, just a few seconds. You just need to energise them when the couplings of the two items of rolling stock you want to part run over them. Just use a non-latching push button switch.

Izzy

Offline bridgiesimon

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #22 on: October 21, 2017, 07:02:02 pm »
Just a quick addition to the discussion, there is another option here - MBD couplings, available form N Brass and previously NGS shop, possibly not any more though. These are very similar to DG but instead of bending the loop etc yourself, these have an etched brass loop - much easier to assemble.

https://thumbs.worthpoint.com/zoom/images1/360/0212/22/gauge-mbd-couplings_360_5517c1ae28782c8de7a62126b9763b95.jpg

I use these on my exhibition layout and love them. occasional issues with heights getting knocked but no major issues, uncoupling easy, delayed action awesome and when weathered/blackened they are almost invisible.
Best wishes
Simon

Offline Ocean_Colliery

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #23 on: October 21, 2017, 08:14:42 pm »
Many thanks for your replies, I'll take them all into consideration.

Josh

Offline Ocean_Colliery

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #24 on: November 29, 2017, 11:42:01 pm »
After a bit more messing about I'm having second thoughts about committing to DGs. I like the concept and I'm sure they could work well but at this time I'm very reluctant to carry out the necessary surgery on my models, particularly the engines. I think I may shelve the idea and keep them for a time when my skills have improved somewhat.

I guess this has been covered many times before but what are the views on the Peco standard couplings with electromagnets? The main problem I see is that the Farish sprung couplings can't be used with them as the spring tension prevents hands-free coupling, and also causes issues with using the electromagnets, is this right? If so is there a way to get around this? Adding a shim to the Farish pockets and removing the springs, perhaps?

 :helpneededsign:

Josh

Offline Dr Al

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #25 on: November 30, 2017, 12:20:45 am »
Adding a shim to the Farish pockets and removing the springs, perhaps?

The spring is needed to keep the coupling horizontal - the risk of removing it is you end up with floppy couplers that won't then work well, and likely catch on pointwork.

You can lessen the effect of the spring by cutting it down in length, though again care is needed as this reduces its stiffness, and therefore propelling vehicles (particularly long rakes with some weight) may result in problems. It's easy to try though and you can always bung a fresh spring in if it's not working out. In terms of other couplers, the lift arms also would encounter problems with some of the NEM rapidos, as the sockets and coupler heads can be pretty variable between the manufacturers, some being very stiff, Dapol's have a non-standard bump on top that makes them stiffer to lift (can be taken off with a scalpel), so it's likely you'd also need to go over all these and fettle them to make sure all freely lift.

I agree personally on not destructively modifying stock - particularly if you are the kind of person who occasionally (or frequently) changes, sells or swaps stock - there's no doubt that it's a lot harder to sell without rapidos.

It may have been suggested already, but have you looked at Dapol's easy shunts? I haven't used these in anger so am no fan-boy, but they do seem a credible option to easily fit to NEM mounted locos and coach rake ends for coupling up easily. Most stock can remain otherwise unaltered with original rapidos - at least for rakes that won't be split or uncoupled.

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

Offline danmk1

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #26 on: November 30, 2017, 08:11:41 pm »
After a bit more messing about I'm having second thoughts about committing to DGs. I like the concept and I'm sure they could work well but at this time I'm very reluctant to carry out the necessary surgery on my models, particularly the engines. I think I may shelve the idea and keep them for a time when my skills have improved somewhat.

I guess this has been covered many times before but what are the views on the Peco standard couplings with electromagnets? The main problem I see is that the Farish sprung couplings can't be used with them as the spring tension prevents hands-free coupling, and also causes issues with using the electromagnets, is this right? If so is there a way to get around this? Adding a shim to the Farish pockets and removing the springs, perhaps?

 :helpneededsign:

Josh
Hi Josh.
I too am considering going down the route of using DG's and hope my own experiences might help, please note though that this is my first ever layout and I can't vouch for the longevity of the modifications  :).

Concerning making the loop I have been making them one piece from a length of .3mm wire.
 
For the bending I have brought the jig that has been mentikoned but in the end I have marked up a set of long nosed pliers and have been using the to bend the wire to the required size.


Like yourself I was concerned about cutting up the Loco's and rolling stock and found a guide on another site of use so after a bit of trimming to the coupling I have been soldering a short length of .81mm brass rod which allows fitment to a Nem socket.


These have been, so far, fitted to my N class and Maunsell coaches.




I have also fitted them to a couple of my Union Mills locos. This time using some 1.59mm brass tube to sit in the existing recess and packing out the gap with plasticard.
 

As far as other rolling stock I have had to butcher the underframes, which will effect the resale, but as I am planing to keep them in rakes I have only had to do the end wagons.



Over the last weekend I started to install some Electromagnets and was able to do my first run around of some coaches.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vg0zchTlSZc&t=15s

Hope some of my ramblings might have been useful.
Dan
My layout build: Bordon Light Railway http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=39031.0

Offline lil chris

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #27 on: December 02, 2017, 12:21:41 am »
Thanks for this post Danmk1, like the video too. I was thinking of trying the MBD Simon mentioned  but after looking on N-Brass I do not think they are available. I too do not want to canabilse new stock or locos, not bothered about some of the old wagons and that. I have bought some of the D & G couplings and electric magnets, I have fitted a couple of magnets in place but not wired them up yet, what did you use for a height guide and did you use the wire supplied or something else. I really need to start on a couple of loco's and some wagons etc.
Lil Chris
My layout here East Lancashire Lines
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29492.0

Offline Southerngooner

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #28 on: December 02, 2017, 08:08:33 am »
I went down the B&B route a long while ago as in my opinion they are a lot easier to make than DG's and crucially for me are supplied chemically blackened so they are a lot less obtrusive than the DGs in their bare brass state. There's also no soldering, and the base is smaller, allowing fitting in smaller recesses. The same problems apply for coupling height and location though. I have found it easy to fit them to goods stock with plain underframes, but coaching stock and locos are a different matter. We use them on James Street, and all three of us that supply stock have tried many solutions to get totally reliable coupling but it is difficult, but not impossible. On locos with tenders I have removed the coupling box and fitted the B &B on plasticard packed to the level of the underside of the buffer beam. If you check the coupling height as suggested by B&B and no doubt DG, it is just under the buffer beam. Sitting the coupling on top of the NEM pocket seems to work, particularly if you leave a stub of the old NEM copying in place and pack between the B&B and that with plasticard.
Which ever coupling you use of the two, they are way more attractive and usable than the standard Rapido!

Offline paulprice

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #29 on: December 02, 2017, 09:41:10 am »
Interesting, I bought some D&G's at York but have not looked at them yet, but the B&B couplings sound easier, who supplies them?


 

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