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Author Topic: DG Couplings Test Track  (Read 1532 times)

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Offline Ocean_Colliery

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DG Couplings Test Track
« on: September 16, 2017, 05:51:39 pm »
 :helpneededsign:

These are so fiddly!




Online lil chris

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #1 on: September 16, 2017, 07:32:47 pm »
It will be interesting to see how you get on with this, I have some of these couplings to fit myself sometime in the future. I would have thought two wagons would be better for testing though.
Lil Chris
My layout here East Lancashire Lines
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29492.0

Offline Ocean_Colliery

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2017, 07:38:01 pm »
Hi Chris, I'm just testing to see how one coupling reacts to the electromagnet first, the hardest parts I find are securing the latch in place by opening up the two pins, and forming the loop as even with the jig, the wire seems to want to form more of a circle than a rectangle.

Offline JBQFC

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2017, 08:21:33 pm »
i find when using DG couplings i just use a loop only at one end and a latch at the other end and they work a lot better and lot less fiddly to build
you then just have to make sure you put your stock on all the same way round

Offline Graham63

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2017, 09:18:19 pm »
To fit the latch to the coupling I have a thing called a toolmakers clamp, I hold the latch with the two prongs just sticking out of the top, put the coupling slot over the top and prise the prongs apart with a craft knife or similar. Hope this helps!

Offline PLD

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #5 on: September 17, 2017, 08:33:32 am »
It was because they are so fiddly to accurately form the loop and assemble that I chose B&B couplings over DGs... The B&Bs work on exactly the same principle but the loops are a pre-formed etch, and the latch has proper pivots.

One thing I would recommend with either is to make yourself a gauging block so you get the height consistent to avoid coupling/uncoupling issues.

Offline tunneroner61

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2017, 11:06:31 am »
To make the loops 'squarer' after you have wound them round the loop forming jig and before you remove them from the jig squeeze the whole lot in a vice (with smooth jaws), turn 90 degrees and repeat. Final tweaks can be done with small pliers.

I don't use the dropper wire supplied, replacing it with soft iron florists wire. Try to get the dropper length consistent too.

HTH Norman

Offline robert shrives

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #7 on: September 17, 2017, 04:50:50 pm »
2mmfs association now do a natty DG setting jig  2-112  4 to members. 2mmfsa etch is slightly thicker and more robust per the experts comments.

Robert 

Offline Ocean_Colliery

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #8 on: September 17, 2017, 05:53:45 pm »
Thanks for the replies.

I'm also a little unsure of how the delay latch actually works. And if you only use a latch and loop at one end, should this be the end closest to the buffer stop, being pushed into the siding, or should it be the end of the pulling wagon?

Offline Ocean_Colliery

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #9 on: September 17, 2017, 06:08:42 pm »



This is what I have at the moment, with the scenario being the wagon on the left coupling to the wagon on the right, and then both being pushed towards the right.

Offline tunneroner61

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #10 on: September 17, 2017, 06:14:29 pm »
The loop on the first wagon sits under the latch engaged with the 'peg' (sorry can't think of a better description) on the second wagon. When the dropper on the loop is attracted downwards by the (electro)magnet the loop moves up and lifts the latch up. The loop keeps moving out of contact with the latch and the latch drops down back onto the little 'peg' . Now when you switch off the magnet the loop drops down and rests on top of the latch. So you can either draw away leaving the uncoupled wagon where it is, or push the uncoupled wagon to it's new resting place and then draw away leaving it behind.

It doesn't matter which way round you fit the loop and latch  - as has been previously said by JBQFC just make sure all the stock you convert including locos is on the layout the same way round.

Another useful tip is to have a couple of converter wagons - rapido one end , DG the other, so you can couple up to non converted stock.  Also if you have fixed rakes you only need DGs at the ends.

Norman


Offline robert shrives

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #11 on: September 17, 2017, 06:23:31 pm »
Hi, Nice work but the latch needs to be on the  non loop wagon as it does nothing mounted as shown.
Also a little bending of the buffing face "ears" might help with curving as well.
For close coupling you can get down to having buffing face within 0.5mm of the buffers but does depend on curves.
But I guess you have found that out by now !
Robert 

Offline Ocean_Colliery

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #12 on: September 17, 2017, 06:25:51 pm »
 :thankyousign: Norman. Got it now!

Offline Ocean_Colliery

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #13 on: September 17, 2017, 06:40:17 pm »
Thank you all for the help. Now I need to practice some more on assembling them and then of course fitting them at the right height etc. Hopefully then I can put all this into practice with the micro layout I have planned. One last thing though, if fitting them to a Poole-era diesel, what is the best way to go about this?

Offline tunneroner61

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Re: DG Couplings Test Track
« Reply #14 on: September 17, 2017, 07:02:35 pm »
First of all as Robert has observed the latch needs to be on the non loop end - just caught up with your photo.

Where possible I've fitted the DGs with the coupling face just in front of the buffers. This is generally OK on wagons but on locos, especially NEM socketed ones, isn't always possible. I don't want to cut the NEM socket off a loco so I live with the DG sitting proud. All the wagons I've converted were pre NEM so I accepted the need to remove the Rapido box.

I've only done one Poole era loco a class 25. In simple terms remove the Rapido and spring. For the 25 this means unclipping the bogie side frames. The mounting plate of the DG will have to be cut down a little to fit in the coupling box. Use plasticard shims to get the DG to the right height (another reason to make a height jig) and glue it together with a contact adhesive. Replace side frames.

Norman

 

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