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Author Topic: Ensbourne  (Read 23621 times)

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Offline colpatben

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #15 on: February 26, 2015, 05:14:46 pm »
Modified the track plan 'cos I realised that there was no access  to the sidings and depot except by reversing back from the station roads!
Now added a third track up the incline
Also shifted the reversing loop slightly
We never have problems, only solutions!
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Offline colpatben

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #16 on: March 02, 2015, 07:40:59 am »
Lightweight layout update 2nd March 2015

I have revised and probably settled on the Track Plan shown here:



As you can see I have added some Road, Structure and Water to the plan which will develop along with the build.

The water feature is to basically use a Liddle End canal lock that I bought several years ago.

You will see that I have two borders around the perimeter of the base board (two tone blue) this represents the actual thickness of the 1in (25mm) ‘Profile Boards’ that are necessary to make the structure ridged plus a further ¾ in (20mm) that gives clearance to the  track from the outside profile edge.

I have bought a Mod-U-Rail 3ft x 3ft (900mm x 900 mm) kit and have assembled the basic box. This is how I discovered the need to subtract the 1¾ inches (45mm) from the outside dimension on my track plan before drawing the track.

I won’t go into the basic construction as there are various articles and videos on the Woodland Scenics website, but if I do come across a specific problem and more importantly a solution I will highlight it.

With the Main track plan for R/H Side printed and laid into the basic box I can now see where I am going!



I will give my insight as to the suitability of the Mod-u-Rail system as we progress. For now I will say that it is aimed more towards a simple one or two track plan set in rocky terrain, as there are lots of rocks and gravel in the kit and not much to allow larger Flat areas to be constructed without the purchase of additional construction items.
On the plus side from a construction and scenic point of view everything is in the kit (except the track).
Several adhesives, grass in various colours (colors!), trees kit, rocks, ballast, paint literally everything, so if I were a complete beginner I could produce something very striking without constant trips to the shops (both those on-line and real).

I will write about tools etc in a few days.

Rule 1 does apply!
We never have problems, only solutions!
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Colin

Offline colpatben

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #17 on: March 09, 2015, 03:17:13 am »
As I am V slowly getting on with track laying on the Main (Lower) level for the R/H baseboard (Spring in the Garden).
I thought I would publish the wiring diagram for the Main (Lower) level, both Left and Right



The upper level is somewhat more complex

It seems to me that there are modellers who do not bother with a wiring diagram and then two years later have a problem which they cannot solve for the lack of one. When asking advice on short circuits, overloads, and just 'It Stopped Working'  a lack of an accurate record will result in lot of head scratching!

 
We never have problems, only solutions!
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Colin

Online Bealman

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #18 on: March 09, 2015, 03:26:49 am »
Tell me about it. I'm currently attempting to restore my ancient layout, and although I started documenting everything when I commenced in 1987, extra circuitry crept in, and it's well, let's say, a challenge.
Vision over visibility. Bono, U2.

Offline colpatben

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #19 on: March 11, 2015, 04:10:45 am »
One of the prime reasons for choosing polystyrene foam as construction material was to make it as clean as possible; therefore use of all tools should result in little or no residue during construction.

Here are some pictures of suitable tools. (I have just found a new use for that redundant card table!)
Note: No sawing tools.

Hot wire foam cutter with a wide/deep throat and a cutting guide.
Foam knife for those smaller cuts.
7inch kitchen knife, for those larger straight cuts, along with a steel or sharpening stone to keep it sharp because you want to cut not crush.
Straight edge, this boxwood rule has a brass insert along its full length as a cutting guide.
Low melting point hot glue gun and low melting point glue sticks. This speeds construction, if one uses liquid glue (PVA) you will need to leave each join for 24 hours to set.
If using a dual temperature gun always check the temperature setting is on LOW at the start of each session because the high setting will melt the polystyrene foam, trust me on this!
Soft pencils, I have both a 2B and 5B these will draw on the foam easily without leaving an indentation.
Foam nails for holding and positioning foam parts before gluing (when I was a lad these were called modelling or T pins!)
Pointed kebab sticks for boring small holes.

       

We never have problems, only solutions!
My Layout Link
Colin

Offline silly moo

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #20 on: March 11, 2015, 05:29:26 am »
I am also using polystryrene extensively for my layout. I make use of most of the tools you have mentioned with one extra. A Stanley surform shaver, which is a small surform, I use this to smooth off and sculpt the surface of the polystryrene once it has been glued in place. It makes rather a mess with polystryrene beads going everywhere but you can get nice curved shapes to your landforms.

After the sculpting process a thin layer of Polyfilla can be added to the surface but it's not always necessary, PVA paint is often enough.

Offline colpatben

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #21 on: March 11, 2015, 09:14:40 am »
The first stage of Woodland Scenics module construction will produce a basic open fronted box 36in x 36in x 8in high on the back and sides (900mm x 900mmx 200mm).

With the Main track plan for R/H Side Lower Level printed and laid into the basic box I can now see where I am going!

What is immediately obvious is that the method suggested for joining tracks between modules is similar to that adopted by most clubs that build Modular Layouts to use short pieces of track to bridge the join. As the upper level of my layout has several tracks crossing between modules at an angle, and I intend to build using Code 55 track then this will not provide a suitable solution.

To that end my initial thoughts are to fit alignment dowels on the joining faces and then fit some form of ‘Hard Edge’ to support copper clad strips to which the crossing rails can be soldered in the classic exhibition layout format.

   
We never have problems, only solutions!
My Layout Link
Colin

Offline colpatben

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #22 on: March 11, 2015, 06:14:06 pm »
Shown here is the Woodland Scenics method of joining two modules together which basically consists of a strip of Masonite (Hardboard) with a series of holes through which a bolts are pushed to align with and fix to the next module.

This will not suit my needs so I have purchased two pairs of Pattern Makers dowels and attached them to blocks of wood which are then recessed in cut-outs in the box side and glued to the Masonite. The two modules will be fixed together using over centre toggles instead of the bolts supplied by Woodland Scenics.
   
You will also see that I have reduced the height of the side of this box to allow the lower level tracks to pass to the L/H Module.

We never have problems, only solutions!
My Layout Link
Colin

Offline newportnobby

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #23 on: March 11, 2015, 08:34:45 pm »
It certainly looks a neat, lightweight construction method, Colin. I'll be following this with interest especially regarding durability (knocks, bumps etc) :hmmm:

Offline colpatben

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #24 on: March 12, 2015, 07:15:31 am »
I'll be following this with interest especially regarding durability (knocks, bumps etc) :hmmm:
It seems robust at the current stage of construction which seems well within its capability to withstand twisting and handling generally.
The final finish is to cover all sides with plaster cloth which will tucked under the base by an inch or two so a hard shell is produced.
We shall see if it will survive long term. Keeping the weight as low as practical will be the key.
I haven't settled on a base/frame construction yet but it should ultimately provide some additional support.
Currently it sits perfectly on a dining room table!
We never have problems, only solutions!
My Layout Link
Colin

Offline silly moo

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #25 on: March 12, 2015, 07:39:26 am »
I think that a lot of layouts are over engineered and too heavy but it does depend on how they are going to be used. There's a tradition of building wooden baseboards that was started when polystyrene wasn't available.

If they are going to be chucked into the back of a van and taken to an exhibition they need to be robust.

If they are going to stay at home and not moved around much then light weight materials work well.

There's no reason why a polystryrene layout couldn't be exhibited it would just need to be transported with care.

 :pmsign:

Online Bealman

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #26 on: March 12, 2015, 07:44:24 am »
Most intriguing. My old layout is most certainly over-engineered and I too, am following along with interest.  :thumbsup:

George
Vision over visibility. Bono, U2.

Offline silly moo

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #27 on: March 12, 2015, 07:52:08 am »
I have two polystyrene layouts, one in 00 which is nearly complete and rests on the top of a pool table and the latest in N which is in the process of being built.

The N layout has a rigid styrene base that rests on a small table and scenery and trackbeds which are being formed out of the lighter type of polystyrene. I don't envisage there being any problems with damage as the layouts aren't moved around much.

The fact that they are both so lightweight is an advantage if they do need moving. I can even turn them upside down to shake off excess scatter material!

Offline colpatben

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #28 on: March 15, 2015, 09:29:07 am »
I spent a few hours yesterday considering the possible methods to providing a stable cross module track support and have mocked up what would seem to be a viable solution.

The standard construction to support the track is to fix a 2inch (50mm) riser into the base box, top this with plaster cloth, then glue down a foam track bed (underlay) and finally lay and ballast track. Note everything you need is in the kit with the exception of the track.



For anyone interested, the Mod-U-Rail construction booklet can be downloaded from the Woodland Scenics website and the product code is ST4802.

The cross module support utilises the additional height that the foam track bed 1/8 inch (3mm) is above the riser and module edge, which is cut short from the edge and replaced by a strip of 1/8 inch (3mm) ply then on top of this is glued and screwed a similar sized strip of copper clad fibreglass board onto which the track ends can be soldered (having first removed the sleepers). I am hoping that this will provide enough insulated barrier to prevent the action of soldering from destroying the underlying foam.



We never have problems, only solutions!
My Layout Link
Colin

Offline colpatben

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Re: A New Start
« Reply #29 on: March 16, 2015, 08:25:14 am »
Yesterday fitted all risers into box for R/H side module. We can now see how the track will be laid following the curves of the risers.
     
The next stage will be to ‘Loose Fit’ the track work and assemble the Slope/Upper level turnouts and crossing to the front RH side of the box.
Turnouts will be fitted with Peco PL-10 motors and PL-15 Twin Microswitches (one switch for Frog polarity and the second for local signal if required.

Note: for the Turnout that switches through to the Crossover then I will use a relay to also change its polarity.
We never have problems, only solutions!
My Layout Link
Colin

 

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