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Author Topic: Scalescene models  (Read 33391 times)

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Offline MinZaPint

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #105 on: December 08, 2014, 05:00:32 pm »
That's looking really good, the interior has come out very well but I think you'll want to straighten the corners on the office! Going to look great on the layout  :thumbsup:
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Offline GroupC

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #106 on: December 08, 2014, 06:19:10 pm »
straighten the corners

Straighten the corners?! You should see my house! I found a right-angle corner the other day and nearly called Reuters to get it on the world press feed. If you imagine the house in original version of "The Ladykillers" that'll give you an idea!

Offline cycletrak9

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #107 on: December 08, 2014, 10:40:16 pm »
I had a house like that once. Built in around 1760 there wasn't a straight wall in it. We got a decorator in to wallpaper one of the bedrooms. He took twice as long as he'd originally estimated [luckily we were on an agreed price] and when we asked him to do another room he seemed to be unexplainably busy.

Offline Chinahand

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #108 on: December 09, 2014, 09:35:25 am »
Just found this thread so thought I would pass on a couple of tips for building Scalescenes kits.

The first thing I do once the sheets are printed is to give them a good coat of matt polyurethane varnish from a spray can. This comes in very useful if you happen to get a bit of glue onto the printed paper as it will just wipe off with a damp cloth without damaging the print.

One thing I did not like about the kits was the way the glazed windows are just sandwiched between the inner and outer wall layers a it created a 'bulge' in the walls. To overcome this I now print another sheet of the inner wall templates, fix it to a sheet of thin card and then cut oversize window openings to match the actual size of the glazed windows. This is then glued to the inside face of the outer walls so that it forms a recess into which the glazed windows can be fitted. When the inner wall layer is then glued over the top the windows are held securely in place without bulging the walls.

Hope you can follow this and that someone finds it useful.
Regards,
Trevor (aka Chinahand)

Offline yorkian

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #109 on: December 19, 2014, 08:02:31 pm »
   Finding the Scalescenes ideas very interesting. I started using them in OO gauge a couple of years ago and still like them now I've switched to N, although they are a bit more fiddly (or is it just me getting older and clumsier!) I tend to use a mixture of Scalescene and Metcalfe now, depending on what I am modelling.  I also use  DeLuxe Materials Roket Card Glue quite a bit.  Just one warning however, it is virtually instant so be sure that things are all nicely lined up before sticking!! If you have a need for speed it is very good.
Hope this might be helpful.

Offline Bob Wild

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #110 on: December 20, 2014, 10:46:31 am »
  I also use  DeLuxe Materials Roket Card Glue quite a bit.

That's interesting. I prefer Anita's Tacky Glue however. It lets you move a piece around before it sets.

Bob

Offline Vonk

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #111 on: February 01, 2015, 06:12:07 pm »
Hi all

I do have a question re these does everyone give them a coat of spray varnish once completed as recommended in the instructions?

Thanks
My layout thread - Blackstone

Offline Mustermark

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #112 on: February 01, 2015, 06:17:58 pm »
I haven't bothered so far.

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Offline Chinahand

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #113 on: February 01, 2015, 06:18:35 pm »
Hi Vonk,

I actually give all of the print-outs a coat of matt varnish before I assemble the kit. That way, if you do happen to get a bit of glue onto the printed face, you can wipe it off with a damp cloth without causing any damage to the print. Also you don't have to mask off the windows when the kit is complete to avoid getting varnish onto the clear windows which would, otherwise, go milky if the spray varnish gets onto them.
« Last Edit: February 01, 2015, 06:19:53 pm by Chinahand »
Regards,
Trevor (aka Chinahand)

Offline Vonk

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #114 on: February 01, 2015, 06:25:13 pm »
Hi Vonk,

I actually give all of the print-outs a coat of matt varnish before I assemble the kit. That way, if you do happen to get a bit of glue onto the printed face, you can wipe it off with a damp cloth without causing any damage to the print. Also you don't have to mask off the windows when the kit is complete to avoid getting varnish onto the clear windows which would, otherwise, go milky if the spray varnish gets onto them.

I did spot this before unfortunately I am slightly past this stage on the model I am currently trying as my first go. How easy is it to touch up edges etc with marker/crayon to hide white lines or even weather? Sorry for all the questions  :-[  I have only ever done poor efforts at metcalfe kits before (Poor due to lack of patience and no actual layout to put them on previously)
My layout thread - Blackstone

Offline Chinahand

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #115 on: February 01, 2015, 06:42:47 pm »
With the Scalescenes kits there shouldn't be any exposed white edges. However, if you do end up with some I would suggest you get some watercolour or acrylic paints and mix up a colour to match rather than using crayons or felt tip pens.
Regards,
Trevor (aka Chinahand)

Offline Bob Wild

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #116 on: February 01, 2015, 10:41:00 pm »
Hi all

I do have a question re these does everyone give them a coat of spray varnish once completed as recommended in the instructions?

Thanks

I don't either. I have noticed on some of my original models that they have assumed a slight greenish tinge. But, quite frankly, that's all to the good, here up t'north all buildings have a coat of moss and algae. So I don't mind.

But it may be something to do with the printer. My original HP failed a couple of years ago, and I was never totally happy with the colour it produced. My latest is a Kodak and seems to be better.

Bob

Offline Jerry Howlett

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #117 on: February 02, 2015, 10:15:54 am »
I always intend to do what Chinahand suggests (spray the sheets before assembly) but then frequently forget in my haste to start. I have only had problems with a platform finish fading but this could have been a problem with the ink cartridge.  If you forget like me simply mask the windows with a piece of paper and spray the finished article. I use water colours (childrens paint set) to touch up any white bits. One tip is to paint around the window edges on the card base layers BEFORE you apply the cover layers, this prevents any white edges showing in the corners.

I have just bought the new low relief factory a nice little model.



Jerry
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Offline Dorsetmike

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #118 on: February 02, 2015, 10:29:35 am »
Quote
One tip is to paint around the window edges on the card base layers BEFORE you apply the cover layers, this prevents any white edges showing in the corners.

And do it from the back, then if your pen or brush slips you don't get a streak on the visible area. I always use felt tip or fine line paint markers, depends what I have that's the closest match, if nothing is a decent match then I resort to mixing acrylics and brushing.
Cheers MIKE


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Offline Chinahand

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Re: Scalescene models
« Reply #119 on: February 02, 2015, 10:53:43 am »
One tip is to paint around the window edges on the card base layers BEFORE you apply the cover layers, this prevents any white edges showing in the corners.

Jerry

I don't quite understand that Jerry as the way the Scalescens kits go together there is always a 'wrap' of either the external or internal finish which covers the window and door reveals.
Regards,
Trevor (aka Chinahand)

 

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