!!

Not Registered?

Welcome!  Please register to view all of the new posts and forum boards - some of which are hidden to guests.  After registering and gaining 10 posts you will be able to sell and buy items on our N'porium.

If you have any problems registering, then please check your spam filter before emailing us.  Hotmail users seem to find their emails in the Junk folder.


Thanks for reading,
The NGF Staff.

Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 ... 10
1
Layout Construction / Re: The Train Shed Project
« Last post by Innovationgame on Today at 05:56:22 pm »
Being Friday, I managed almost two hours in the Train Shed first thing this morning.  Today was a track cleaning day.  That means that every train ran at least twice, once to clear the loops and again to return it to its ‘home’ stable loop.  As usual, first I cleaned all the track between the storage loops.  I have really taken to the card and IPA method.  It deposits large amounts of black muck on the card, so I hope it makes the track a lot cleaner.  After cleaning all the ‘open’ track, I moved everything out of the UP loops and cleaned them.  Then I moved everything out of the DOWN loops ready to clean them.  6417 stalled again on the run from the DOWN loops.  I cleaned its wheels, but I was still not convinced about its performance.  I may try a little Dapol oil on its bearings.  After coffee, I had a number of garden jobs to do, so I returned to the Train Shed for a short period before dinner time (sorry, I think I’m supposed to call it lunch these days).  After cleaning the DOWN loops, I moved everything back to their home loops, starting with the trains temporarily held in the station.  Here’s a video of Cranmore Hall starting from Platform 4 and making its way round the layout, through the UP loops and eventually stopping in DOWN Loop 15.

 


I managed an hour in the Train Shed again this afternoon.  This time, I concentrated on the tunnels.  I have some ply panels that were not required for the backscene so I started cutting pieces to make a box to support the Shaper Sheet.  Here’s the first box, ready to insert into place behind the UP tunnel.



I fitted it into position and it fits quite well.



I now need to make a second box for the single-track tunnel.  This will join onto the first one behind the tunnel entrance, which I have put in place here to show the effect.



I will then have to add some vertical pieces to support the Shaper Sheet.  I may treat this as a prototype and then make another ‘finished’ product, but I’ll see how this one turns out when I try to fit the Shaper Sheet onto it.  When the UP tunnels are complete, I will then make another set of boxes to fit the tunnels at the DOWN end of the layout.
2
Coupling Reviews / Re: DG Couplings and Permanent Magnets
« Last post by Delboy on Today at 05:52:01 pm »
3
N Gauge Discussion / Re: Graham farish a3 372-378
« Last post by PennineWagons on Today at 05:49:50 pm »
Hi all. I have been offered a Graham farish a3 model number 372-378. Could you give me your general opinion of these? Also would like to know when they where made(think it's Bachman farish) and their suitability to convert to dcc as they don't say dcc ready.
 Many thanks.
David.
This particular model was made in 2005, and was marketed as part of a 'Heritage Range' produced by Bachmann/Farish in association with the NRM. It's actually a Poole-era design dating back to 1987, predating the Bachmann takeover of Farish in 2000, but was manufactured in China using the original UK tooling. Bachmann made six Chinese versions of the A3, of which this one is the next-to-last. (60065 'Knight of the Thistle' in BR late-crest green, catalogue number 372-380, was the final one.) They've never produced an updated version, probably because sales would have been adversely affected by Dapol already having one in their range.
They were decent enough models for their day, but seem a bit dated nowadays in comparison with modern offerings. Lots of people are perfectly happy with their old Poole-era stuff though (me for one). If it runs OK and you like it then that's all that matters really.
PW
4
Coupling Reviews / Re: DG Couplings and Permanent Magnets
« Last post by Dave Searle on Today at 05:31:42 pm »
No, we've not had any magnetic problems, just minor alignment issues if they get knocked when storing them.

Cheers,

Dave
5
On My Workbench / Re: Help with building a 323 and a 304 EMU
« Last post by Cooper on Today at 05:29:03 pm »
They’re looking good now they’ve had a bit of filler and a coat of paint!

The 304 also still needs Gresley bogies which are awaiting the NGS bogie hiatus to be resolved. It will also need the power bogies scratching up as they are plate frame bogies with a thousand rivets...
6
Layout Planning / Re: Broom Hill TMD
« Last post by bluedepot on Today at 05:14:24 pm »
nice pics!


tim
7
i've booked seats at the Science Museum IMAX for the 27th (2nd / largest screen in UK) so am avoiding spoilers!!
8
N Gauge Discussion / Re: Railtrack Auto-ballaster
« Last post by red_death on Today at 05:13:05 pm »
The Farish versions are JJAs which IIRC don't run in fixed sets (unlike the HQAs) though they still try to keep them in rakes of 5.  You get mixed sets of flat and curved top autoballasters - again IIRC there were only a minority (25 according to LTSV) of cut down flat top autoballasters.

Cheers, Mike
9
N Gauge Discussion / Re: Red Imp Railways
« Last post by Railwaygun on Today at 05:10:54 pm »

Had a look for zap a gap, never previously heard of it, there seems to be several variants, which one would you recommend for these kits

OK

ZAP-A-GAP is a gap filling Cyano (Superglue) it is slow curing up to 24hrs and you can slide it about a bit for good positioning.  There is also an accelerator called ZAP Kicker available in a spray that will cure the glue for an instant hold when positioned. As I had a gap on the stair platform between the side and end handrails this would have been the ideal glue, as I didn’t have any I resorted to a two part epoxy but that tends to slide about till it starts to set.

ZAP is a very thin superglue with great penetration so you can hold the parts together and run the glue along the edges to be joined much as you would with a liquid polystyrene cement on your plastic kits.

ZAP also market a debonder which is essential in your adhesive arsenal and it does what it says on the bottle.


‘Debonding agent for all super glues. Softens cured glue so it can be easily removed from fingers and other surfaces.’


I would keep in my adhesive kit:
ZAP CA super thin
ZAP-A-GAP gap filling
ZAP Kicker Accelerator
ZAP Debonder

A wealth of information and many more variants here:
http://www.supergluecorp.com/




Acetone ( nail varnish remover) is good for removing superglue ( may affect plastics though)

you can mix talc with superglue to make a filler or try tippex instead.
10
Coupling Reviews / Re: DG Couplings and Permanent Magnets
« Last post by Black Sheep on Today at 05:04:18 pm »
Thanks for showing that,

Have you had any issues with the wire becoming magnetic and stopping working correctly at all?
Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 ... 10
Please Support Us!
December Goal: £55.00
Due Date: Dec 31
Total Receipts: £55.00
Below Goal: £0.00
Site Currency: GBP
100% 
December Donations


Advertise Here