Housing a Model Railway

Started by first timer, May 11, 2017, 05:04:30 PM

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The Q

#15
If you ae going round the shed with the layout, I'd go for a lift up / or swing away section by your door.

If you build it on a permanent frame work but with the boards removable like a show layout. you can have it any height you like because you can always lift the board up or away, to work on it  No more crawling around, no soldering upside down with hot solder dropping on you. It also means you can use all the space beneath the layout for storage. And possibly a nice seated work area.... a bit like a teenagers bunk bed with a desk for school work beneath..

cohort

Not at all convinced by the idea of eye level layouts. Surely it would pretty much spoil the view you would get when it comes to loco operation? I would be much more in favour of individuals devising their own comfortable supports when working underneath the layout

Bealman

I'm not convinced about eye level layouts either, especially in N.

For a starters, building up plaster scenery, etc. must be difficult. The electrical work underneath will be easier to get to, but you're still working upside down.

Q,s idea is good to an extent, but to an older bloke like me, it's still a lot of work.

That's why I am thinking of trashing my walk around garage layout and starting a smaller, simpler layout.
Vision over visibility. Bono, U2.

Delboy

#18
For me, there is something quite special about the eye level view and this is very much borne out by the amount of folk you see at shows stooping to achieve that viewpoint. Naturally it depends on your layout depth for reach, but I find, to sort the scenery at eye level all you need is a small 2 step platform and you are at an OK level for working and painting. These steps would also be available should you want to achieve a raised viewpoint during operation.
In my opinion, it is far easier to be wiring/fault finding underneath in a chair at eye level than crawling underneath, then laying on you back with arms outstretched. Another added bonus is that it keeps it out of the reach of the younger grandchildren with their grabbing hands.  :) Each to their own at the end of the day.
She who must be obeyed says I am spending too much time on this forum. I love her dearly but what does she know?

Newportnobby

Although my layout is set at 44" height, I was lucky enough to find a cheapo gas damped chair which means I can instantly drop down to eye level if I want to view from that perspective.
(Sadly I need to consume a few cans of baked beans to rise again)

ntpntpntp

Quote from: The Q on May 17, 2017, 12:55:53 PM
If you build it on a permanent frame work but with the boards removable like a show layout. you can have it any height you like because you can always lift the board up or away, to work on it

Agreed, I would definitely construct the layout as manageable and easily removable sections with properly aligned joins and wiring connectors as I would for for an exhibition layout.  It's so much easier to be able to put a board up on its side to work on the wiring. 

Also remember that at some point in the future the layout WILL need to be dismantled, either to move it to a new location, to sort out a problem with the shed, maybe sold on once you've departed to the great train set in the sky, or whatever.   

If it were me I'd be really sad to think all that work might be destroyed if it can't easily be moved.  Heartbreaking for relatives as well I would imagine.  I've seen layouts up for sale at general auctions, where they've basically been ripped apart.

I know this is orders of magnitude larger, but there was a huge N gauge layout of Stuttgart station built by one man in a large room under the station complex itself.  Over 30 years' work, but sadly he passed away as we all do.  A group have set about rescuing it but it's been a nightmare, they've basically had to saw straight through boards, track and everything to extract it piece by piece.

http://www.stellwerk-s.de/#anlage
Nick.   2021 celebrating the 25th anniversary of "Königshafen" exhibition layout!
https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=50050.0

first timer

My mate is a retired carpenter so I,m going to ask him to make me 6 tresalls to lay the layout on, 2 across the end of the shed and two down each side to make an L shape down one side and a work bench down the other. My wife wants to know when I,m going to set it all up ( I think she wants me to move in ) There will be 2 windows in the shed so I may run it just under the bottom of the frame which in my old shed is 42 inches. that looks about right for under wiring and being able to reach to the back without to much difficulty. Next is lighting and heat for the winter, putting in mains electric is going to be to expencive for me I think so I am going to run an extension cable from the utility room to the shed which is only across the foot path (mains socket to shed is about 12 foot ) Summer 3 sockets and winter 4 so which sort of lead would be best?

themadhippy

#22
Quoteso which sort of lead would be best
for an extension lead being used outside a minimum of 1.5mm 3 core  ho5 cable such as http://www.screwfix.com/p/time-tough-flexible-cable-3183trs-3-core-1-5mm-x-25m-black/55534
One issue to be aware of is earthing,the safest option maybe not to use the earth from the house,but use an earth spike next to the shed,it all depends on the type of earthing arangement used on the incoming supply.
freedom of speech is but a  fallacy.it dosnt exist here

first timer

Is there a ready made up extention lead I can buy?

Waz

I'd seriously consider not running an extension lead and biting the bullet and paying to have a proper electrical supply installed if you wish to run a heater in there. Because the last thing you want to do is overload the extension lead and cause a fire. It is likely that the plug and socket will be the bit that gets too hot and you will be in your shed and the first you'll know of a problem is when you loose power which may be too late

It would become very easy to over load an extension lead in a shed if you plug in a 3kw heater, some lights, controller, radio, and small power tools like solderi iron.

Attached is a link to work out volt drop down a cable so you can work out what size cable you will need.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html


daveg

Sensible advice there!

Perhaps you can find a local sparks who can advise you and offer a solution that is safe and within budget.

As an idea, if you could get a list of the *safe* materials needed you could then buy these in stages so spreading the costs over a period while the basic shed and trestles are being sorted.

Good luck and please don't take risks. Better a bit of a delay than a frizzled first timer!

Look forward to seeing how you get on.

Dave G


Malc

Whichever system you use, make sure you have a RCB or ELCB (circuit breakers) so that you won't get any fatal shocks.
The years have been good to me, it was the weekends that did the damage.

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