New model room

[bbdave]

Fingers crossed next month we'll be moving into our own place and I'll be the owner of a single garage to convert to my model room it is single skin brick I am thinking of insulation all round and a skin of ply or plaster board but I just wandered if anyone had any other suggestions or ideas on what to do to prepare it.

Dave

[njee20]

I used insulation backed plasterboard in mine, bonded straight to the wall plasterboard ceiling with reasonable loft insulation.

It's good, never gets below freezing or very hot and I didn't lose as much depth as if you build a stud wall for the insulation, although I suspect that would be cheaper, and you could compensate for uneven walls and floors more easily!

[bbdave]

I used insulation backed plasterboard in mine, bonded straight to the wall plasterboard ceiling with reasonable loft insulation.

It's good, never gets below freezing or very hot and I didn't lose as much depth as if you build a stud wall for the insulation, although I suspect that would be cheaper, and you could compensate for uneven walls and floors more easily!

Did you do anything on the floor? I was thinking of insulation tiles with ply over the top.

Dave

[njee20]

I sealed the floor and put down some reclaimed carpet tiles. Didn't want to do anything too hard to reverse for when we sell the house. I'm sure a studwork floor with some polystyrene would be softer, but I actually find it fine.

[Carmont]

My garage has recently been converted. Our house was previously the show house for the development, and originally the garage was the sales office, so already had insulated and lined walls ("Glass" wool insulation and plasterboard), the same for the ceiling/loft,  and radiator from the gas fired central heating. It then reverted to a garage when the builders moved on, but the lining and insulation remained. I have now had the up-and-over door removed and a big window installed in its place. The floor was originally just the solid concrete floor so my builder put in 100ml joists to lift and level  it and filled the area with 100ml foam sheets (celotex type stuff).

Snug as a bug in a railway room sized rug!

Plasterboard will be quite a bit cheaper than ply, I would think.

You should find that the floor slopes towards the door (to prevent flooding, etc.) so you might want to level it. If it's concrete floor I'd suggest you do the same as the above.

[njee20]

Again, it depends if you ever want to be able to put it back to how it was. Also be wary of permitted development regulations if you're doing things like removing up and over doors and making it a 'proper' room. Best to check with your local building control planners.

[bbdave]

Again, it depends if you ever want to be able to put it back to how it was. Also be wary of permitted development regulations if you're doing things like removing up and over doors and making it a 'proper' room. Best to check with your local building control planners.

Converting garages are permitted development but as the door can remain it'll look no different.

Dave

[stevewalker]

For the floor in my shed, I used polystyrene backed chipboard sheets (4' x 2') IIRC. They have tongue and groove edges to interlock them.

[njee20]

Again, it depends if you ever want to be able to put it back to how it was. Also be wary of permitted development regulations if you're doing things like removing up and over doors and making it a 'proper' room. Best to check with your local building control planners.

Converting garages are permitted development but as the door can remain it'll look no different.

Dave

My comment was specifically in response to Carmont who said he's removed his up and over door, constituting a full conversion.

From Planning Portal:

Sometimes permitted development rights have been removed from some properties with regard to garage conversions and therefore you should contact your local planning authority before proceeding, particularly if you live on a new housing development or in a conservation area.

I'd ask the question first personally, it's unlikely to bite you, but a bit of a pain if you get caught out.

If you're leaving the door as is then I'd not bother. As I said.

[bbdave]

We'll be talking about migrating the PME earth next!!! 

Dave

[njee20]

Err. Ok. I have no idea what you're talking about

One thing I would say is sockets. Lots of sockets. How many do you think you need? Double that.

[Newportnobby]

One thing I would say is sockets. Lots of sockets. How many do you think you need? Double that.

It's like the definition of infinity. Think of the biggest number you can come up with and then add one

[stevewalker]

One thing I would say is sockets. Lots of sockets. How many do you think you need? Double that.

It's like the definition of infinity. Think of the biggest number you can come up with and then add one

Ah, but which infinity? https://math.stackexchange.com/questions/5378/types-of-infinity

[Snowwolflair]

One thing I would say is sockets. Lots of sockets. How many do you think you need? Double that.

It's like the definition of infinity. Think of the biggest number you can come up with and then add one

Ah, but which infinity? https://math.stackexchange.com/questions/5378/types-of-infinity

The first one you spot after your first pan galactic gargle-blaster. 

[Safety Engineer]

I had an insulated (42mm thick) sectional garage door installed, its draught proof with rubber seals all round. For the floor I laid Black plastic membrane overlaid with Celotex topped with chipboard flooring sheets. From the outside it looks like a normal garage and can be converted back when the time comes.

As ours is a new development, permitted development rights had been withdrawn and the local planning jobs worth put up so many objections it became uneconomic to do a full room conversion.

Martin