D10000 /1

[CarriageShed]

Is it resin dust that you're not supposed to breathe in? I know it's one of them, but be careful not to anyway.

[Fredastaire]

Well , ive made a start, here is the Parkwood body on my low hours Farish Poole 38 chassis. the fun bit was radiussing the ends of the chassis, the armature and output shafts refused to be pulled up and out, the white bearing plates are jammed hard in so I fully masked up the chassis before grinding off. ive trimmed the Parkwood internal ribs on the sides to fit the Poole chassis and had to trim some of the roof cross ribs to get the height correct.
As this is my first resin kit please may I ask for your further help and comments. I am wondering about trimming out the windows and glazing both for the cabs and the engine side windows; is this reccomended with the soft resin body? As a past hobbyist on Corgi model car restorations I have Humbrol aerosol paints and are well used to using them finding the nozzle mist very good for small models. Am I up at any risks with using Humbrol?
lastly ive put a wanted on the forum for a non runner 37 chassis as i'm wondering about making an unpowered BR10001 version to work in tandem with the LMS 10000. I'm thinking about removing all in the bogies except for the main axlesets.

[Bob G]

Congratulations on your first resin kit.

Depending on the thickness of the resin, you can either carefully cut out the windows (if the resin is thin this is the preferred option) or (as on the Parkwood shunter kits and classes 15/17/Ivatt prototype which i have built), after i had painted the final livery, i painted the windows gloss black and then fitted acetate sheet on top, stuck on with PVA, so that they catch the light like ordinary models do.

On this model i'd be tempted to cut out the cab windows but not the side ones (rembering its only the upper five panels that are windows).
I think it all depends on the thickness of the resin body in the window areas, and how fiddly you want to get.

Scrub the resin body with CIF on a toothbrush when you are done, to degrease it, then spray with Halfords grey primer, and then halfords satin black. Cheaper than anyone elses aerosol black!

HTH
Bob

[Fredastaire]

As outshopped at Derby works initially, what colour should the roof be? the only photos I can see on google are black and white , although at first sight I was going for silver, a colleague says it should be white. Can anyone confirm?
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PS I'm looking for a dead Farish 37 or 47 chassis to build 10001 as an unpowered rolling version to run with my 10000.
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Kind regards from Fred

[Bob G]

If you are modelling the early black liveries, it is silver, same as the waistband colour and the bogies.
If you are modelling the later green versions, it is "roof grey" like other green diesels.

HTH
Bob