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Author Topic: D10000 /1  (Read 703 times)

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Offline Fredastaire

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D10000 /1
« on: April 01, 2018, 08:13:08 pm »
I'm currently looking on ebay at the Parkwood models resin body to fit a Farish 37 chassis. its only the body and tanks moulding.
Please may I ask if anybody else has done this model in recent years and for any advice they can give me?
I have a Farish Poole built 37 with only a few hours use from new. The resin body I know was made originally for the Poole chassis but has been modded to have the side ribs of later chassis which I can trim out easily.
Does Parkwood have a known address for buying from other than Ebay?
Comments appreciated..............
Kind regards

Offline ntpntpntp

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2018, 09:29:39 pm »
Nick.   2016 celebrating the 20th anniversary of "Königshafen" exhibition layout!

Offline Bob G

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2018, 10:15:57 pm »
I see that - although the resin version i have might have been a Heritage N model, possibly based on a cast of the Knightwing model, and sold to Andrew Evans Models - the guys that currently produce the baby Deltic, DP2, Kestrel, Class 89, prototype Warship, etc and sell them on EBay.

The Parkwood one has a different tank block - designed to fit the split chassis that i have. I have seperate bits to glue on for each side (or i did because i lost one).

Since it fits the split chassis 37/47 from the early Farish China era, you should be fine with the Poole 37.
i bought spare hymek buffers for the loco, as it doesn't come with buffers.

You might want to cut the windows out too, and use Glue n Glaze for clear windows.

HTH
Bob
« Last Edit: April 02, 2018, 09:35:33 am by Bob G, Reason: more info added »

Offline Snowwolflair

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2018, 10:27:02 pm »

Offline Fredastaire

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #4 on: April 02, 2018, 08:53:18 pm »
Thanks Snowwolflair, please may I ask which kit and chassis is your 10000 on the youtube video?
kind regards from Fred

Offline Snowwolflair

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #5 on: April 02, 2018, 08:59:43 pm »
Resin kit from eBay, not sure of origin but copy of no longer available Knoghtwing kit seem reasonable.  It has an old class 37 mechanism and a Zimo sound chip.  Transfers from Fox, they do one set for all the specials like Lion, Kestrel and Falcon etc.

Offline CarriageShed

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #6 on: April 03, 2018, 02:15:22 pm »
Don't worry at all about buying from Parkwood via his eBay site. He's a good chap, relatively easy to communicate with, and his resin kits are very good.

I've done the Diesel No 10800 model and it came out pretty well, despite too much gloss in the final varnish:
http://www.ngauge.historyfiles.co.uk/FeaturesNGauge/howto_Diesel10800_Kit.htm


Offline Snowwolflair

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #7 on: April 03, 2018, 02:31:14 pm »
Don't worry at all about buying from Parkwood via his eBay site. He's a good chap, relatively easy to communicate with, and his resin kits are very good.

I've done the Diesel No 10800 model and it came out pretty well, despite too much gloss in the final varnish:
http://www.ngauge.historyfiles.co.uk/FeaturesNGauge/howto_Diesel10800_Kit.htm




Nice model a light spray of Humbrol enamel Satin varnish would ease the shine a treat.

Offline CarriageShed

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #8 on: April 03, 2018, 03:41:45 pm »
Nice model a light spray of Humbrol enamel Satin varnish would ease the shine a treat.

Thanks. The painting and varnishing is all hand-done actually. I don't have an airbrush.

Offline Snowwolflair

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #9 on: April 03, 2018, 03:46:00 pm »
Nice model a light spray of Humbrol enamel Satin varnish would ease the shine a treat.

Thanks. The painting and varnishing is all hand-done actually. I don't have an airbrush.

Humbrol do a spray can, but make sure its the enamel one not the acrylic one.  With a bit of practice you can produce a very light coat.

My sequence is build, hand paint with enamel, gloss spray, transfers, then satin or mat spray

Offline Fredastaire

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #10 on: April 03, 2018, 06:12:19 pm »
Gentlemen, thanks for your input, i had my 37 in bits last night to check it thro as its noisey, the carbon brushes have only the tiniest line so it is as i thought effectivly brand new. Im now to buy the 10000 body and get started. Do please add sny other build info that may assist me.
Kind regards to all.

Offline Fredastaire

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #11 on: April 09, 2018, 06:49:09 pm »
Progress - ive received by post today the resin shell and undertank moulding from Parkwood, i'm now looking for the transfers, i'm looking at Fox and I wonder if anybody can comment, they have two listings for N gauge and i'm wondering what the difference is? also it suggests that they are in stainless; does this mean a transfer that looks like stainless or do they mean real stainless in which case how do you put on such tiny script? they werent available today by phone.....
Question please for Snowwolflair, how did you apply the waist band, is it just silver paint?
The shell has the vertical ribs as used on later Farish chassis, I have an almost unused Poole chassis; I'm wondering whether to scalpel the ribs from the shell or do I hacksaw slots in the Poole chassis? has anybody got a later chassis unwanted?
Kind regards from Fred and thanks all for your help so far.

Offline Snowwolflair

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #12 on: April 09, 2018, 06:55:27 pm »
Cut the resin not the chassis as the metal swarf will go into the motor.

the band is done with Tamya masking tape, as its very low tack.  black is a good undercoat with for silver.

Offline Fredastaire

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #13 on: April 09, 2018, 09:15:49 pm »
I'm not worried about metal swarf, the chassis would be just the casting and its top plate and would be well flushed before assembly. I am more worried about the strength of the resin casting

Offline Bob G

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Re: D10000 /1
« Reply #14 on: April 10, 2018, 11:14:19 am »
The ribs are not necessary for the body to retain its integrity, so they can be filed off.
Resin is very soft and you will find the ribs will reduce in thickness very quickly.
Resin is more forgiving of stress causing breakages than FUD 3D printed models, which I find brittle.

HTH
Bob

 

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