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Author Topic: Tilbury Tanks and Midland Spinners  (Read 28078 times)

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Offline simon.bolton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #15 on: May 28, 2015, 10:01:02 am »
So here's the problem:
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Luckily a childhood of dismantling (besides many other things) my Triang-Hornby locomotives comes in handy here. I took the chassis apart and replaced the motor with a nice little can, temporarily held in place with magic tape. (It really is magic you know.) Gareth recommends superglue once everything is running well.

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Getting the crossheads into position is the fiddliest thing I've ever come across.

A bit more metal cleared from the underside.

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Ta da!

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Offline Newportnobby

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #16 on: May 28, 2015, 10:43:52 am »
Nice solution to the original problem, Simon.
Result!!

Offline simon.bolton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #17 on: June 01, 2015, 06:41:24 pm »
Thank-you everyone for your kind comments and thank-yous!

Here's some beading progress.

I like to use masking tape these days to hold fiddly soldering in place. It doesn't seem to be affected too badly by the heat from the iron unless in direct contact.

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And cocktail sticks to shape the corners.

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The beading is 0.25mm soft round brass wire from Eileen's which is given a light brush with a file to produce a slight flat when it's in place.

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Offline thebrighton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #18 on: June 01, 2015, 06:55:06 pm »
Hi Simon,
It's coming along nicely. I hate beading and often ignore it as once painted it can virtually disappear. N Brass offer 'D' shaped brass wire, part number 2283, which makes it a whole lot easier!
http://www.nbrasslocos.co.uk/fitbr.html
It's about a third of the way down.
Gareth

Offline Caz

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #19 on: June 01, 2015, 09:46:24 pm »
Nice modelling Simon, very impressed with your skills.   :thumbsup:

Offline simon.bolton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #20 on: June 13, 2015, 12:38:09 pm »
Hi:

I bought some lovely bits and pieces from N Brass including the suggested D section wire (thanks Gareth). An excellent firm with great service. Unfortunately, their beautiful LMS smokebox door casting was slightly too large for the Class 51 so I filed and soldered up my own. (I'm sure the spare will come in handy sometime soon...)

I now make small circular pieces by soldering sheet to the end of appropriate diameter brass tubing and trimming and filing. The somewhat precarious drill in the vice was used as a makeshift lathe, one day I'll get a proper one.
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The turned door front was soldered to a slightly larger circle and various bits and pieces added from D wire and NBrass's delightful handrail knobs.
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And Blu-tacked in place to check for a good fit. I'll epoxy it on later when all the soldering's over.
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Offline thebrighton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #21 on: June 13, 2015, 01:31:47 pm »
I've got a lathe just like that!
Gareth

Online Atso

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #22 on: June 13, 2015, 11:12:06 pm »
My, that's looking good Simon. I've envious of anyone who can build in brass/nickel silver. I'm worrying about trying to put some coupling rods onto wheels in the future without any of this soldering lark!

However, I too have used your type of 'lathe' setup in the past. However my was turning some engine nacelles and a secondary hull out of wood for an 1:2000 scale original series starship Enterprise! Never did finish it but I'm sure the various bits are still about somewhere...

Offline simon.bolton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #23 on: June 16, 2015, 02:42:49 pm »
Hi Steve:

Thankyou! I'd like to see your Enterprise if you get it finished. I must admit to a bit of space-ship modelling on the side. I've got an Airfix Saturn V awaiting painting...sometime.

Meanwhile, here's my Doctor Who/model railway mash-up...

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It's approx. 1/12 scale on 0 gauge track and ran around the window of my local bookshop for two weeks.

Online Atso

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #24 on: June 18, 2015, 01:58:46 pm »
Hi Steve:

Thankyou! I'd like to see your Enterprise if you get it finished. I must admit to a bit of space-ship modelling on the side. I've got an Airfix Saturn V awaiting painting...sometime.

Meanwhile, here's my Doctor Who/model railway mash-up...

I doubt the Enterprise will be finished, I started building it when I was 15 or 16. It was in pieces at the old house but I haven't come across it since I moved...  :( If I make another, it'll be a 3D print this time!

Love the Doctor Who Extermintrain! I showed this to my girlfriend and she thought it was rather cool too!  8)

Offline simon.bolton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #25 on: June 18, 2015, 02:44:51 pm »
Hi Steve:
Thanks for your kind reply. It's good that Dr Who is now cool with women. It wasn't like that before the new series started. And talking of new series, CLANGERS! A masterpiece in animated knitting.

On the infinitely more serious subject of N gauge modelling, I've been wondering if there is a good source of really nice N gauge driving wheels? Could they be 3D printed with some sort of fitted metal tyre? The only other source that occurs to me are the drawers of 2mm Association modellers...

Online msr

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #26 on: June 18, 2015, 04:18:49 pm »
It will be interesting to see how others respond to this query about sourcing fine-scale drivers. I suspect, for N Gauge, that there needs to be a pragmatic trade-off between appearance and reliability. Flange depth is important, to retain the loco on the track, and will almost certainly need to be overscale. Equally important is motion quality, which will depend more on correct back-to-back and quartering dimensions than on scale profiles. A bit of a minefield, I suspect.

The wheels used for recent releases of Bachmann-Farish locos appear to fit the bill, but I don't know if they are available separately.
« Last Edit: June 19, 2015, 03:43:38 pm by msr »

Offline simon.bolton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #27 on: June 21, 2015, 10:08:38 pm »
Interesting reply about wheels, thanks msr. I'll try out some more research on the subject.

I've added some front frame extensions to the Tilbury by soldering on some fret strip. I use the smokebox saddle as a jig to position them, with Rizla paper stopping solder from going where it shouldn't.

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Then the smokebox/boiler is removed.

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And the strips filed to shape.

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Before re-fitting the smokebox.

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Offline Dr Al

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #28 on: June 21, 2015, 10:38:27 pm »
This is beautiful modelling - a dying art as most just want perfect RTR.

What's Rizla paper? I've used ordinary paper as a barrier in the past, but it has limited use.

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

Online Atso

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #29 on: June 21, 2015, 10:56:04 pm »
This is beautiful modelling - a dying art as most just want perfect RTR.

What's Rizla paper? I've used ordinary paper as a barrier in the past, but it has limited use.

Agreed. Rizal paper is roll up cigaret paper.

 

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