Ebay Farish B1 Saga

[Razzmataz]

In 2015 I purchased a Farish Class B1, Springbok, from the well known online auction site. I ran it in on my test track under DC and it seemed to be a smooth runner. I did not at that time try pulling anything and just put it away until I could get around to putting in a DCC chip. The tender body is fixed by screws and I did not at that time have the correct screwdriver.

I now have some coaches on my test track and have raised one end to give a 1 in 60 slope (approx.) just to see what incline I could get away with. Tested most of my locos with various degrees of success.    

I decided this weekend to convert the B1 to DCC but since it had not run for a couple of years I tried running it DC before I started. It could not even get itself up the slope, just massive wheel spin. Close inspection showed that the set of wheels driven by the motor should have had tyres on. Fortunately there were some tyres included with the loco. Got one on, very difficult to slide down behind the fake axle boxes. Second one though was a very loose fit. Tried another, same thing. The groove seems to be too deep. Check the packaging again and there is a spare wheel set complete with tyres. I just had to dismantle the complete tender and rebuild it to replace the wheel set.

After hours of struggling with minute screws and fiddly bits I eventually reassembled it and she now runs very well pulling 7 coaches up the 1 in 60 both DC and subsequently DCC.

The other result of this exercise is that I am now making a Jewellers apron to wear at my desk when doing this sort of work. I lost count of the number of times I had to scrabble about under the desk for dropped screws.

[longbow]

I have found that a set of magnetic screwdrivers is indispensable for N gauge loco maintenance.

[martyn]

Unfortunately, the Farish traction tyres for the B1/A1/A2/J39 (at least) are not a very good design, and do need frequent checking to see if they have perished or, more usual, dropped off.

I also use a magnetic screwdriver (well, a jeweller's screwdriver with a magnet on it) to deal with the tiny Farish screws. It is easier to change the tyres if you take the keeper plate off and remove each individual wheel set for access; if you have a traction tyre fitted set of wheels at the back and a second set in the middle seems to give best haulage for me, and still reliable electrical pickup.

Martyn

[Razzmataz]

I also use a magnetic screwdriver (well, a jeweller's screwdriver with a magnet on it) to deal with the tiny Farish screws. It is easier to change the tyres if you take the keeper plate off and remove each individual wheel set for access; if you have a traction tyre fitted set of wheels at the back and a second set in the middle seems to give best haulage for me, and still reliable electrical pickup.

Martyn, that is what I did. I completely dismantled the whole tender using a jewelers screwdriver and replaced the traction tyre driver set. Put it back together and tightened all the screws up to find everything binding. Loosened off the screws tried it and then trial and error until it started to bind again, then backed off a smidgen. With just the one set the tender was quite happy with 7 coaches and will probably haul more. Weird seeing all that stock behind just a tender!

Hooked back up to the loco and I'm really happy with the result.
Paul

[martyn]

Paul;

Good to know it went well.

I have also often found that the screws need to be backed off a smidgin, otherwise binding may occur; it is the same for Farish Poole-era chassis, especially steam locos.

i don't have much of a gradient, but my B1s take eight coaches around James St inclines (1;150, I think, but I'm not sure) with no problems.

Good result.

Martyn