Class 20's old and new

[scottishlocos]

Guys

I recently bought an old tooling class 20 got it it for a good price and knew there was issues with it tried to fix it but think its on the way out how fo I make it a dummy loco and would it look daft next a newer 20 want to double head them has anybody done this

Dave

[PLD]

To convert to a dummy, the key is to make it as free-running as possible. Remove all the intermediate gears from the bogies and I'd remove the motor armature. Also consider whether you can cut away any of the metal chassis block to reduce weight (but this will be non-reversable)

Whether it will look daft double heading with the new model is a matter of opinion for the viewer. (if you don't make it free running and it acts as an anchor for the powered loco that will look daft!!)

In my opinion, the old 20 is not too bad a model, and the new one isn't radically different but there are a lot of small improvements that all add up to make a much better model.

[koyli55002]

I have made up a couple of dummy chassis ( much the same as the Ian Stoate ones but scratch built from plasticard).
These make quite free running "dummy" Class 20's.
Together with the Taylor detailing packs, the locos look quite the part - perhaps not QUITE up to the standard of the new tooling (and of course without lights).

[robert shrives]

Hi much the road intend for the LUL GBRF delivery train .

I was minded to use the new chassis in a parkwords class15 kit thus throwing up a body for the front pair and use two older ones for the rear . The waggons between  help mask the change.- well thats the plan!
Robert 

[Bealman]

I think it's a good idea. As PLD says, the old model isn't too bad.

[geoffc]

I bought two old second hand DRS 20's. One was stripped as suggested, remove all gears and the motor and drive. I couple them nose to nose with one flask wagon. I did not lighten the chassis as I thought it would ride better with the weight and it was only hauling one wagon.

Geoff

[scottishlocos]

Guys

Thanks for useful replies the 20's will be used or short freight trips so weight won't be an issue I will detail the old style 20 and eventually get a modern one

Dave

[Newportnobby]

Just caught this and am glad of the suggestion, Dave.
I'm tired of hearing my old 371-026 D 8134 roaring round with the motor echoing through the body so I might well 'gut' it and run it with the more modern release (weathered D8011).
As they are both green, does anyone know how they ran double headed in those days of yore please?
I know later trend was nose to nose so there was a cab at each end.

[koyli55002]

I believe that the 20's very rarely ran "elephant style" - although in early years they were more often found going solo...
Drivers hated going nose first - reminded them too much of steamers ?

[Newportnobby]

I remember that last bit so was thinking about running both cab first

[scottishlocos]

Guys

Can't remember seeing any pics of green 20's double heading I am sure it must have happened  Lots of good pics of single 20's nose first in green tho

[Newportnobby]

Ah - but there's always the 'send a good 'un out to bring back a failure and its train' excuse if all else fails

[scottishlocos]

Double 20's were used to bank heavy trains up Beattock and possibly Shap they took over from the class 17's

[DELETED]

Just a quick note of caution as I stripped out the drivetrain from an old class 20 to use as a dummy...

...Be weary if you have R1 or 2 curves (I have due to space).  I found the stripped out chassis very heavy to drag round R1 or R2 curves by my DCC China class 20, which has always has been one of my best runners -save for the usual DCC ready thing and the lights not working.  In my oppinion the Pool chassis is a bit to heavy to drag behind -but bear in mind I'm talking my experiences on tighter curves.  I made a plastic chassis for mine which helped -but since passed everything on as a favour on some loco servicing.

Rich

[Newportnobby]

Thanks for that, Rich.
Am now thinking balsa wood