Coreless motors v open frame.

Started by Old Crow, July 18, 2018, 12:21:10 AM

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Bramshot


Dr Al

Quote from: Bramshot on August 03, 2018, 05:20:49 PM
Where do you get yours from? £19 from Bachmann, but I didn't find any alternative source on line.

There were some on eBay a year or more ago - nothing identical currently or for a while - but they were 10 for about £15 delivered IIRC.

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

"We have also arranged things so that almost no one understands science and technology. This is a prescription for disaster. We might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later this combustible mixture of ignorance and power is going to blow up in our faces."Dr. Carl Sagan

Izzy

 
I know you are well up with the DCC decoder settings to use for coreless ( I presume the sound install settings motor control was checked - I have found they sometimes use basic settings I wouldn't if they are tuned for particular loco make/motor installs - since they aren't usually scale specific), but one issue I have had, which might just be the problem here, is that the motor leads can break/fracture internally, and give this kind of on/off power supply. Not easy to replace since they are wired into the end casing, which aren't meant to be removed.

It's just a thought,

Izzy

Bramshot

#49
Yes, it is also a Zimo sound decoder, and I had set the coreless settings in it.  It ran happily for several hours with the new decoder, then was shelved to make way for a different era. When brought back, it ran ok on day one, but the fault appeared on day two at startup.  I had been fiddling with CVs so assumed at first that I had mucked something up, but the problem persisted after reset, for which I needed some assistance from You Choos, as it doesn't appear to reset using POM and I had to use the programming track. However, the fault persisted and I have today replaced the motor with a new one (thanks Bachmann for a two day turn around) and the replacement thankfully did have a worm fitted. Fault cleared.

I had noticed that the wire insulation was frayed to expose the conductors where it enters the motor end cap. This was a loco where the torque restraint was not engaging properly in the mounting bracket, and the wires were doing the restraining, so maybe it fatigued then.

Pity the loco was just out of warranty, though they may not have accepted it after sound had been fitted.

I only noticed the longish delivery on the puller I ordered aftre having ordered it ( a month or so estimated), so I am glad the replacement had a worm already fitted!

Bramshot

Update

Well the puller arrived, it works after a fashion, except the pushing pin isn't long enough to push the shaft right through the worm. It needed a tapping with a small screwdriver shaft to get it right off.

Just to see if it would work, using the busted motor, I tried replacing the worm, just by tapping it on again, with the none-drive end of the motor resting on a table. It worked, did not have to tap too hard and the bearing seems no worse for wear afterwards. So there must be something internal for the shaft to press up against.

So there is hope, if you can find a cheap replacement motor.

I guess Dr Al must already have done something similar?

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