BHE DMU Kits

[kaiwhara]

Evening All

Has anyone here had much experience with any of the BHE kits, powered or unpowered, and how they all go together? I'm thinking about several non-RTR DMU's that I could potentially introduce onto the proposed layout, but having never done anything like this before, I am wondering what it takes to put these together?

Cheers

Andrew

[H]

Has anyone here had much experience with any of the BHE kits, powered or unpowered, and how they all go together? I'm thinking about several non-RTR DMU's that I could potentially introduce onto the proposed layout, but having never done anything like this before, I am wondering what it takes to put these together?

Steve Farmer is your man. He's made a few. Unfortunately he's been ill lately and I don't think he's on this forum.

I've used the BHE class 205 DEMU etches but mounted them on Farish Mk1 coaches (the old but solid ones) rather than their own plastic profile extrusions;



H.

[EtchedPixels]

Has anyone here had much experience with any of the BHE kits, powered or unpowered, and how they all go together? I'm thinking about several non-RTR DMU's that I could potentially introduce onto the proposed layout, but having never done anything like this before, I am wondering what it takes to put these together?

The basic construction is a plastic floor, two pieces of clearish plastic side, a plastic roof profile and some white metal ends (generic inners,  reasonably correct noses). plus etches. Some of the etches are old and not stunningly accurate however there are alternatives there.

Building the body shell you basically square off the ends of the floor, roof etc and then adjust them to the length of the etches allowing for the ends. For that you want a small engineers set square of similar, saw and assorted files. Bluetack and about 6 hands helps.

The instructions come with a diagram of where the roof vents go and the next step is to drill all the roof vents out and fit the little vents provided (or if you want more accuracy buy some non-generic ones for the vehicle type).

(at this point before assembling if you want an interior you'll need to scratch build it)

With that assembled you can clean up the white metal ends and glue the sides/roof/floor together with the ends to form a box. Copious amounts of fine filler and some filing later you'll have a DMU shell with clear sides, roughly the right ends. When tidying up remember to allow for the thickness of the etches.

Bogie mounts glue on, although the type now being supplied are the wrong height so you'll need to pack them with plasticard. Bogies fit onto that,  underframe bits glue onto the bottom, drill holes in the ends for buffers,

At minimum you need some good photo references because some of the instructions are iffy, and the kits sometimes come with very misleading parts (eg trusses for the 123 kit) or generic round buffers for units with ovals.

The etched sides can then be curved to shape, primed, painted and finally attached to the shell using a suitable glue (not superglue). The etched sides are not great and very old designs. They also vary a little in length between coaches, so be careful when building and measuring!

The alternative for that is to flog the etches on ebay and use vinyls for the sides. Certainly a good plan if doing complex liveries.

You can make a really nice model from them, but you need to see it as a pile of generic components that will help you build it and be prepared to fiddle/tinker, get other details etc to get the best results.

What may be a good idea is to start with something like the class 128 parcels DMU as its a single car and thus cheaper intro.

For the EMU stock Bernard TPM's ends and some vinyl sides are IMHO not only easier but better looking. Again you need to spend the time fitting extra bits like BHE underframe castings to get the best result.

Alan

[H]

Alan makes them sound dreadful; they're not quite as bad as that, but the standard of finish does depend on the level of your skill. I've seen some superby built examples by the likes of Dicky Dockerill - but he's a pro. The class 117 below is a finished example (apologies for the old poor photo). However, they're not really ideal for novices and I do agree that for EMUs the TPM cast cab ends are far superior to the BHE ones (but they are a lot more limited in range).

Also if you're going to use vinyls then don't bother with a kit. However, I prefer properly painted etched sides; IMO they look far better. Worsley Works and TPM do etched MU sides of decent quality - the BHE ones can be variable.



H.

[kaiwhara]

Thanks. That has given me a clearer picture.

To give a clearer picture of what I intend to do, I will eventually aim to have a collection of the usual Corridor Slammers available (CEP's, CIG's, VEP's) - being whatever are best ends with Electra Vinyls, eventually a 442 or two once my skill base improves (remembering I have no skill whatsoever in this area currently), but I would also like to try a 119 (not available from BHE by the looks) but to do that may involve pulling some strings (Adam???...) and determining if feasable, what the best base model would be and how to alter it. If it will prove to be a mission - no big deal, Ill just continue with a myriad of 101's, 108's and a couple of 121's, and maybe a couple of 142's when they come out, but it is a nice to have if it can be done.

Also, now we are starting to get some Single Bogie drive units coming through from Grafar, would these be easier than trying to shorten a 158/170 chassis to fit a 20 meter body?

Cheers

Andrew

[H]

Also, now we are starting to get some Single Bogie drive units coming through from Grafar, would these be easier than trying to shorten a 158/170 chassis to fit a 20 meter body?

That's probably an expensive option, but probably a simple drop in job if taken as a complete chassis (with both bogies) from an appropriate unit. However, the class 158/170 chassis' are designed to be adjustable, and can easily and quickly be converted in to an accurate Mk1 46' 6" bogie centres motor chasis (or any other size for that matter). They're good performers with all wheel pick up and all axle drive - I use them on all my EMUs - and can be picked up quite cheaply these days.

H.

[EtchedPixels]

The 150 chassis will fit the BHE units but needs fairly major surgery. I'm currently putting together a 123 that way.

I would have thought for a 119 the best chassis may be the Dapol 121, although I'm guessing Dapol will tackle some of the longer units now they've done the 121.

The kits are not dreadful, but they are of a time and need a fair bit of work to produce a good result. It's not just the sides which are sometimes a bit out either - the underframe detail varies between generic and slightly fictional.

As to vinyls - I agree in part - without doubt a well painted and finished etched side is better (and Worsley Works do rather more accurate scratch aid kits for some of the units). However a good vinyl is far better than a bad paintjob, and a good deal less scary for a less experienced modeller when tackling liveries like NSE.

Rail blue DMU is a bit easier of course.

[kaiwhara]

I take it the 119 is a longer chassis than the likes of a 101 or 108??

[NTrain]

20m as opposed to 18m

[kaiwhara]

Right. I see Worsley Works does a 119, however I was really after NSE which is going to be a pain to paint (never done any painting, don't own an airbrush either). Could be interesting...

[EtchedPixels]

Right. I see Worsley Works does a 119, however I was really after NSE which is going to be a pain to paint (never done any painting, don't own an airbrush either). Could be interesting...

BHE with vinyl sides might be a good way to do it in that case.

[H]

Right. I see Worsley Works does a 119, however I was really after NSE which is going to be a pain to paint (never done any painting, don't own an airbrush either). Could be interesting...

Worsley Works etches aren't exactly kits; they are considered 'scratch building aids' and don't include everything you'll need like roof, bogies, internal seating, etc. They're high quality but probably not best for a first time build.

You can get transfers for the NSE stripes and swoops so just need to paint the base colour which is probably best done with an aerosol spray can. Don't forget to clean the etch and prime first - Halfords aerosol primer is highly recommended - and finally seal the transfers with varnish (Humbrol hobby aerosol in satin or matt to choice). It can look better than vinyls but won't beat them for ease and speed of application.

I did the class 47 below with aerosols and transfers. Tank has also used them a lot for NSE.



H.

[Newportnobby]

Very classy 47 there, H.

(Yes - I do have 34 diesels )

[H]

Very classy 47 there, H.

Thanks.

(Yes - I do have 34 diesels )

Crumbs, more than me.

Oh yeah, I prefer electrics. The power of the future. 

H.

[dodger]

Quite agree with EP that the dapol 121 chassis is suitable for class 119 power cars as the chassis of both classes, excepting 40 years loss of memory, were vitually identical.

In fact except for different engines originally it is also suitable for class 117 & 118. If you can accept minor differences in electrical boxes it is also suitable for class 116 and 120 power cars.