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Author Topic: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated  (Read 19879 times)

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Offline dats475

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #150 on: April 03, 2017, 12:42:37 pm »
Yum yum, DQ!

It looks great!
Very nice paint job, Webbo.
How did you get the effect on bathroom bricks?
(You know I'm going to look at bathroom first!)
It looks like the DQ is ready for business!!

Dats
Best regards with my annoying moving signature.
  :drool: Dats  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxMwG2GNX3Va9AFLRaNH5xw

Offline Sprintex

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #151 on: April 03, 2017, 01:23:52 pm »
Very cool!  :thumbsup:

It should be or the ice cream will melt :D


Paul

Steamie+

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #152 on: April 03, 2017, 01:57:28 pm »
Hello folks

Another little update from me in the form of another completed building kit. This time it is a Dairy Queen which was a large chain of outlets mainly dispensing soft ice cream (mainly sugar + emulsifiers) and soft drinks. When I was a kid, having a cone from the Dairy Queen was a real treat so the presence of this building on my layout will be totally down to nostalgia. A special treat from the Dairy Queen was the banana split costing 75 cents which consisted of three dollops of 'ice cream' each covered with a strawberry, pineapple, and chocolate syrup with a split banana down each side. Yummy! Nowadays, it has morphed into DQ and extended the "food" range to hamburgers and wraps etc. as well as retaining the original soft ice cream products.



The kit I have built is a newly released Walthers kit. It is a bit sparse with no decal sheets so I had to take Women and Men washroom signs from the Woodland Scenics D's Diner kit I've just completed and apply them to the toilet doors so the right gender goes into the right room. In contrast to the WS kit there are no details such as people, trash cans, or flower pots. However, the kit is straight and goes together really nicely with very tight tolerances. The picture above is shows my model Dairy Queen in its bare bones state, but I'm intending to add details such as at least 1 person inside the building and trash cans with some customers as well.

Next project is a gas (petrol) stations. Pretty soon though once I get these buildings complete, I'm going to have to confront the issue of streets and exactly where all these buildings go.

Webbo



Thats another nice looking building Ian, they sure are nice and bright. I am sure you will have half an idea were to put them on your layout Ian.         :thumbsup:

Offline Webbo

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #153 on: April 04, 2017, 01:36:56 am »
Dats

I highlighted the brick with a wash made of 1 part Woodland Scenics slate grey to  20 parts water. Any blackish looking water based paint would do I expect. The wash tended to bead up to begin with so I added a little bit of detergent which fixed this problem. The dried WS wash can be rubbed off with the fingers if you don't want the bricks quite so dark, but this still leaves darkened mortar so the bricks remain highlighted. I've painted the rest of the building with the wash as well to tone down the whiteness and to give it a bit of a dirty look. May be not so evident in he photo.

When I get to finally placing my buildings I'll think about whether they need more weathering or not. As they are, they make the commercial strip look a bit less dreary during winter.

Webbo

Offline Milton Rail

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #154 on: April 04, 2017, 02:55:23 pm »
The buildings look great Webbo, despite the frustration you had with it, you made a great job of the diner.  I have a few Walthers kits, they are nice to work with, but as you have pointed out, shy on extra detail.  I have a couple of German Piko ones on the go, they are excellent to work with.

Look forward to see how you set them all down in the town

Online Chris in Prague

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #155 on: April 09, 2017, 10:30:23 am »
If you want to use acrylic paints on anything plastic, really thorough cleaning then a high-quality undercoat helps. I first, hand wash all parts in a bowl of warm, soapy water, then clean them thoroughly with an old, soft toothbrush and CIF before a thorough rinse then drying on an old tea towel. For undercoat, I use Tamiya aerosol undercoat, grey or white (very expensive but worth it). Halford's (alas not available here) grey undercoat is a cheaper and just as good alternative.

Offline Webbo

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #156 on: April 09, 2017, 11:38:53 am »
Thanks Chris

The plastic kits I've built lately all recommend soaking in soapy water, but I take it that brushing is necessary as well. I too have been using high quality undercoat in the form of auto spray primer, but it seems that unless the surface underneath is clean, the paint won't stick as well as it should. The primer and the overcoat peel off together. I've heard that Windex is really good at cleaning surfaces and I wonder if spraying this on to begin with would be a good idea?

When I was young I made and painted lots of ship and aeroplane kits made by Airfix and Revell. I don't remember the enamel paints I used then ever flaking off. Apparently, the coatings that are causing the painting problems nowadays are used for better separation of plastic from the moulds. Have things changed in the moulding process over the last (quite a few) decades?

Webbo

Online Chris in Prague

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #157 on: April 09, 2017, 11:49:37 am »
My pleasure, Webbo. I found out the necessity of thorough cleaning of plastic surfaces with the Peco wagon kits. It's well worth taking the time to give all surfaces a really thorough clean (and dry) before spraypainting the undercoat. I have not heard about Windex but it might be worth a try with a test piece. I would guess that a thorough wash with clean water and dry afterwards though would be required, too.

Offline Webbo

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #158 on: April 09, 2017, 09:20:17 pm »
Windex is an ammonia based window cleaner. I just learned from a model railway website that it is excellent stuff for cleaning acrylic paint brushes.

Webbo

Online Newportnobby

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #159 on: April 09, 2017, 09:23:56 pm »
There is just something about Peco plastic that makes paint just drop off it if the item is not primed first. I was gobsmacked when all the paint fell off the Peco railside fencing I'd done in a lovely shade of brown :doh:

Offline Malc

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #160 on: April 10, 2017, 11:07:36 am »
Part of the trouble is that modern paints don't have the same solvents as the ones we used to use on Airfix kits. Most of them use water instead of spirit based solvents.
I'm not sure if life is passing me by, or trying to run me over.

Offline Webbo

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #161 on: August 08, 2017, 09:30:06 am »
I've had a mental blockage of late in the construction of Deadwood. I have two decisions to make; one is the trackplan and scenery layout of my industrial area on the right side of my layout and the second is deciding how I was going to construct the back drop to this area which hides my fiddle yard. Having two problems simulataneously has caused my brain to seize up. I have now solved the back drop problem. For this, I had been thinking various arrangements of drop down doors or even cloth curtains that could be lifted to allow ready access to my fiddle yard. No plan sprung out at me that would look fairly reasonable and not be too difficult to build.

However, one day ago a plan occurred to me for how I might do this back drop and I have since made it up. When I originally cut the baseboards for this section of the layout, I cut a 9 mm wide groove (plywood width) for where the back drop was going to go. (lucky foresight!). The back drop now is comprised of three sections. At each end, I have two plywood boards that are connected together by brackets and which rest within the base board slots. In the middle I have a section of 3mm thick fibreboard that has a former glued across the top which slots into the sections at either end. This back section can be lifted and hooked onto my upper level railway circuit supports. If needed it can be folded back to provide 100% access to the fiddle yard. The two plywood end sections can be lifted out as well so the back board can be removed completely. For me, the nice thing about it all is that I can access my fiddle yard in its entirety within 20 seconds or so.   







This probably all sounds pretty boring, but achieving this system is a big deal to me and is finally allowing me to move forward. Painting up the back drop to look like an extension of my scenery awaits another day.

Webbo

Offline Bealman

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #162 on: August 08, 2017, 09:46:10 am »
Mate, your plan is falling into place nicely.

Still reckon you need to power a few points, though  :P

George
Vision over visibility. Bono, U2.

Online Newportnobby

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #163 on: August 08, 2017, 09:47:22 am »
Neat idea well executed. :thumbsup:

Offline Webbo

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Re: Deadwood layout - unabridged and illustrated
« Reply #164 on: August 08, 2017, 10:08:19 am »
Mate, your plan is falling into place nicely.

Still reckon you need to power a few points, though  :P

George

Thanks George and NPN,

George, I have remembered your recommendation regarding the points in my fiddle yard, but I'm also thinking about the condition of my back and knee joints that would need to be considered if I were to implement your suggested strategy.

Webbo

 

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