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Recent Posts

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1
As others have said, look to the loco pickups.

"Brand new" in my experience can mean badly set pickups at the factory.   I had a period where I was dismantling every 0-6-0 diesel which everyone I knew had recently bought, adjusting the pickups so they actually touched the wheels, and re-assembling.    I've seen similarly bad pickups on bogie diesels.    It was amazing that the locos actually ran at all from the factory.

Every wheel should pickup at all times.  If it doesn't something is out of adjustment.   As to who makes the adjustments, well, if you have the skill and confidence then adjust.  Otherwise, return to retailer as faulty, seeking a replacement which does pickup correctly. 


- Nigel
They probably did work fine when tested before leaving the factory, however the 'special quality' brass used for Bachmann pickups is lacking in elasticity and if the loco is left laying on it's side for a prolonged time (6 weeks in an inter-continental shipping container for example!) it does distort resulting in bias to the side that is taking all the weight... The 03 & 04 diesels do seem to be particularly prone to this...

Noted from experience that locos stored upright are less prone to pickup issues than those stored on their side.
2
Track, Points and Underlay / Re: Now electro frog wiring help newbie
« Last post by Railwaygun on Today at 10:48:48 am »
The Gaugemaster dcc80 auto frog, is efectively a frog juicer. Works in much the same way as a hex frog juicer in pound for pound is about half the price per frog. We have both types on Northallerton.

Cheers
Kirky


http://www.gaugemaster.com/news/NEW-DCC-Autofrog-from-Gaugemaster

5.50 0r 3 for 14.50

http://www.gaugemaster.com/instructions/prodigy/DCC80.pdf

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/117230-gaugemaster-dcc80-frog-juicer/

Double slip solution
http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/124172-gaugemaster-dcc80-autofrog-double-slip/
3
I dont know if this helps, in Colin Judges' book on GWR Railcars there is a drawing of No4 a streamlined one and it is marked No1 end saloon which is the luggage end and No2 end which is the buffet end. Interestingly the drawing for No 20-33 show the luggage end as Bristol end and the other end London end.

Geoff
4
Layout Construction / Re: Longframlington (Northumbrian branch line)
« Last post by Black Sheep on Today at 09:57:38 am »



I can now get back to adding details. The station finally has a nameboard but I'm still not happy with the lettering - it looked OK on the computer screen but a bit weedy and widely spaced once I had printed it out. 

Richard

I like the name board, was about to ask where you got it from as I'll be needing some for mine - most commercial suppliers won't do a name as long as I require
5
It may not be prototypically correct, but with something like the GW railcar I used to consider the end with the guard/luggage compartment as the front.
6
Train Surgery / Re: Farish railcar
« Last post by ntpntpntp on Today at 09:50:12 am »
I don't know the rail car specifically, but often you unclip the bogie sideframes then gently lever out the axles with a jeweller's screwdriver or similar tool.   As Paul says you can probably leave the bogies in place, though I prefer to remove them from the chassis as it's then easier to hold and work on them.
7
DCC / Re: Hornby select flashing 8 times
« Last post by ntpntpntp on Today at 09:38:42 am »
As you say, the guide isn't very helpful and just says try reprogramming.

To be honest I'm not fond of trying to use basic DCC systems to program locos with their limited capabilities and often cryptic indications. I much prefer my SPROG unit and PC software, where you have full control and a proper user interface to make it clear what you're doing.  Best 40 I ever spent, I've had it for many years and use to program all my decoders in N, HOe and G scales.
8
Track, Points and Underlay / Re: Sleeper thickness
« Last post by njee20 on Today at 09:12:51 am »
Hadn't thought of that, but a lot of people advocate printing Templot templates onto card and gluing that to the board to build on.
9
Train Surgery / Re: Farish railcar
« Last post by Paul-H on Today at 09:05:34 am »
Normally the outer frame just unclips from one end and the wheels then just unclip, the bogies stay in place.

Paul
10
As others have said, look to the loco pickups.

"Brand new" in my experience can mean badly set pickups at the factory.   I had a period where I was dismantling every 0-6-0 diesel which everyone I knew had recently bought, adjusting the pickups so they actually touched the wheels, and re-assembling.    I've seen similarly bad pickups on bogie diesels.    It was amazing that the locos actually ran at all from the factory.

Every wheel should pickup at all times.  If it doesn't something is out of adjustment.   As to who makes the adjustments, well, if you have the skill and confidence then adjust.  Otherwise, return to retailer as faulty, seeking a replacement which does pickup correctly. 


- Nigel


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