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Author Topic: W class tank  (Read 1783 times)

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Offline Dorsetmike

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #30 on: May 07, 2018, 04:30:57 pm »
Email says despatched via UPS 24 - 48 hour. Better set me alarm for a couple of days.

Has anyone yet tried one on an Nclass chassis?

Presume some weight will be needed, I would guess in the side tanks?
Cheers MIKE
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Offline thebrighton

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #31 on: May 07, 2018, 05:13:59 pm »
The body is described as available in WSF, FUD and FXD. Given there are no handrails on the print, what would you recommend as the best print medium?
Bob
WSF - rough surface that doesn't sand well and you won't get it smooth and doesn't like glues. Personally think it's ok for larger scales where other mediums work out very expensive due to size.
FUD - more brittle and may suffer from layering but can be sanded smooth. Much better detail.
FXD - I'm awaiting receipt of an item in this but similar to FUD but hopefully smoother as each layer much thinner.
As an example here is the same coach, one in WSF and one in FUD. No work has been carried out except a wash then a dusting of primer. It's not hard to see the difference. WSF is much cheaper but from my experience a waste of money. For not much more you have a starting point that is far superior.

Offline Southerngooner

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #32 on: May 08, 2018, 08:14:43 am »
I will be using the N chassis and hope to be able to make a rear bogie that will collect current so that the traction tyres can remain. I have some thoughts but need to get on the workbench and have a better look. Given that the Farish N body is very light I assume that the weight of the W will be similar, but I assume there will be spaces in the tanks for a bit of weight should it be needed. My N is a good hauler so hopefully it will remain so when added to the W body!

Offline Dorsetmike

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #33 on: May 08, 2018, 10:11:14 am »
UPS tracking tell me it'll be here tomorrow.
Cheers MIKE
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Offline Bob G

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #34 on: May 16, 2018, 06:44:50 pm »
Has anybody got their W body yet?
Mine arrived yesterday.

In terms of chassis the Standard 4MT and Fairburn 4MT are too wide to use without machining, and in any case the valve gear looks wrong and the cylinders are angled not straight.
The cylinders are not quite right on the N but it looks like it will fit nicely once there is space for the motor block to slot into the front of the boiler, as it needs about 6mm or 1/4" cut out of the FUD.
The valve gear doesn't sit happily behind the steps - but the steps could be mounted on a support going through the chassis beneath the existing boiler - not tried that yet, and not sure how far out the steps would sit.
I'm thinking of an M7 trailing bogie, if they are available from DCC supplies, or i could cannibalise the whole bogie and pick up unit from the Dapol chassis, perhaps?

Any other thoughts?
Bob

Offline Southerngooner

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #35 on: May 16, 2018, 07:24:55 pm »
Hi Bob

I am pleased to hear it looks good! Mine still hasnít reached deepest France....

I think the Farish 4MT or Fairburn rear bogie would be better than the M7, no solid wheels! I assumed I would have to thin or remake the big side steps, and had also thought that the cylinders might be able to be reshaped or replaced by a set from something else. Letís see.....

Dave

Offline Dorsetmike

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #36 on: May 26, 2018, 11:45:44 am »
This clumsy/heavy handed dumkopf has managed to loose the steps, now contemplating either oredering another or attempting a bodge job. I re-wrapped it in its bubble wrap to take to the local area group meet, got bback home and took it out - oops no steps. :censored: :censored: :censored:

If I do get another then I'll use the front end buffer beam to hack an N into an N1.

Is it necessary to remove the keeper plate from a Farish N to get the chassis out? Front end is clear after removing pony truck but the back end appears to be fastened somewhere.
Cheers MIKE
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Offline Dorsetmike

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #37 on: May 26, 2018, 12:20:23 pm »
Reordered, whilst so doing saw they also have the ex LSWR F9  "Drummonds Bug"  4-2-4 "inspection saloon" so ordered that as well.   (images linked from Google)





That could be fun to motorise, probably a Japanese motor bogie?
Cheers MIKE
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Offline Bob G

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #38 on: May 26, 2018, 03:33:10 pm »

Is it necessary to remove the keeper plate from a Farish N to get the chassis out? Front end is clear after removing pony truck but the back end appears to be fastened somewhere.

The N chassis is harder to get out than the 4F, but once the three or four screws are undone it does pull off. I think it seems to have nibs/latches/elves at the cab end as well as screws, that hang on like billio.
The bottom of the boiler is part of the chassis that supports the motor. The PCB is in the tender (thus making it easy to have sound in the tender).

HTH
Bob

Offline Dorsetmike

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #39 on: June 04, 2018, 10:58:04 pm »
Has anybody thought of using a Farish 4MT 2-6-4T chassis?, prototype drivers are 5'8" against W class 5'7" and overall length is not far out.

Same problem with both is the need to reshape the top of the cylinders to slope inwards.

I'm wondering if the W ckass body that  I've lost the front steps from could become a SECR K class?
Cheers MIKE
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Offline Dorsetmike

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #40 on: June 07, 2018, 01:17:13 pm »
Doom and gloom!!!!!!! the space between the  :censored: great steps at front end of tanks  is not wide enough to clear the valve gear on the N class nor the 4MT tank! Also the front end of the chassis block on the N class is a bit long at the front  meaning that a bit will need cutting out of the bottom of the boiler and saddle although this will not be visible when assembled. I'm wracking me brains to figure a way round the steps fouling the motion, trying to squeeze the motion inwards is likely to invite lock ups, the steps themselves have already proven a bit delicate so can't file them thinner; a more drastic measure might be to carefully remove the complete sides of tanks and cab complete with steps add a spacing piece and replace tank and cab sides, OK so it''ll be 1 or 2 mm extra width but surely easier than remaking the valve gear

I'm thinking that the one I have with broken off steps will definitely  get hacked into a K class, probably using the 4MT chassis; swap the front end of the footplate and buffer beam with that of the N class which is providing the chassis (for the W) so it can be used to make it into a U1 when I find a suitable chasis with 6' drivers.
Cheers MIKE
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Offline Bob G

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #41 on: June 07, 2018, 01:44:14 pm »
Hi Mike
Not doom and gloom.

Iím going to stick with the N chassis and maybe4MTbogie except the M7 is at least a current connecting bogie.

I was thinking of mounting the big steps on a brass bracket and having them stick out beyond the valve gear.

Wonít know until Iíve tried it.
Bob


Offline thebrighton

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #42 on: June 07, 2018, 01:52:03 pm »
The steps were always going to be a problem (see my post #14). It is the limitations of N. They are very prominent so omitting them isn't really an option but to get them to hang outside of the valve gear, have the recessess and still be securely attached you need to make the body overly wide and you will then encounter your platforms! It's a loco I've always wanted to build but always gave up on for this reason.

Offline Southerngooner

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #43 on: June 07, 2018, 06:38:34 pm »
Iím glad my layout doesnít have any platforms! I only got my model on Tuesday and am en route home to France where I shall make fiddling about with it a top priority. I assumed the steps might need to be replaced by ones fabricated from the the best brass/NS possible, but Iíll have to see. As this is my first 3D printed model Iím keen to see how things glue to it - do I need something like ABS or will Mekpak be any good?

The plastic also seems very brittle - I managed to break off a front step while trying to repack it to prevent damage to the other steps. Still, they would have had to come off anyway to let the front pony swing......

Offline thebrighton

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Re: W class tank
« Reply #44 on: June 07, 2018, 07:52:51 pm »
Which material did you opt for? FUD/FXD takes superglue but WSF doesn't particularly like any glue!

 

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