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Author Topic: Tilbury Tanks and Midland Spinners  (Read 27391 times)

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Offline Ricardus Harfelde

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #45 on: July 15, 2015, 09:21:20 pm »
Hi Simon

Very impressive. I was wondering what material you used for the coal rails and the piston steam pipe?

Richard

Offline simon.bolton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #46 on: July 17, 2015, 06:05:13 pm »
Thankyou everyone:

Richard, I used rectangular brass rod for the steam pipes and 0.5mm brass wire for the coal rails, filing the outside surfaces flat once everything was soldered up. By far the fiddliest job yet was fitting the rails to the bunker.

I've had another go at the chassis to enable me to attach it securely to the body and removed the original pick-ups which I think are a little intrusive.

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The new boiler fittings, still waiting to be araldited on, are all beautiful castings from NBrass.

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Offline danny little

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #47 on: July 23, 2015, 08:20:33 am »
Hi lovely  loco br lines  do a blackend set got a set a few months a go for my 4p but thay got the old stiyle flange but tuned  it down a bit on my lathe love ot see more        danny

Offline simon.bolton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #48 on: July 23, 2015, 09:36:33 am »
Hi Danny, thanks very much. BR Lines is a little treasure trove of bits and pieces, thankyou for pointing it out to me. Do you have some photos and/or could you describe your method of turning the wheels on your lathe? I'd be very interested in how you do it!

More Tilbury chassis modifications coming soon...

Cheers
Simon

Offline Dr Al

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #49 on: July 23, 2015, 09:41:41 am »
If you can get some A3/A4 wheels (Bachmann Spares?) then these will fit the 4P too - I've fitted one of my 4Ps with newer Bachmann A4 wheels with finer profile and blackened. You need to remove the coupling rod pins and drill out for accepting the 4P's original valve gear, otherwise they are a straight swap.

HTH,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

Offline simon.bolton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #50 on: July 23, 2015, 03:00:31 pm »
Thanks Dr Al:
Very interesting, I'll be having some more thoughts about N Gauge wheels...in the meantime:

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A question: I know the thing on the right is a motor 'cos I've seen those before. I'm pretty sure the little blue thingy on the left is the "dropper resistor" because it was in the packet. The instructions say "the resistor must be connected in series to the motor and away from direct contact with the motor".

Could anyone tell me in very simple words and or pictures, how to connect the two without the sudden explosion of either?

Cheers

Simon

Offline Dr Al

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #51 on: July 23, 2015, 03:06:22 pm »
Connect one terminal of the power supply to one lead of the motor, connect the other terminal of the power supply to one lead of the resistor, and then connect the remaining lead of the resistor to the remaining  unconnected lead of the motor.

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

Offline simon.bolton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #52 on: July 23, 2015, 04:34:31 pm »
Cheers Alan, does it matter which way around the resistor is? It all sounds alarmingly simple...

Simon

Offline Dr Al

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #53 on: July 23, 2015, 05:01:25 pm »
does it matter which way around the resistor is?

No.

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

Offline simon.bolton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #54 on: July 23, 2015, 06:02:09 pm »
Yay! Thanks Alan. My O level Physics is sluggishly resurfacing. I remember that "in series" means in line and I think I was confusing resistors and capacitors which I have a feeling you do need to get the right way around. I shall have a go tomorrow.

Cheers
Simon

Offline Dr Al

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #55 on: July 23, 2015, 06:07:52 pm »
If at all in doubt, try first with a 9V battery as your source - then you'll see the effect with no risk of damaging the motor (as 9V is lower than the motor is specced to anyway).

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

Offline keithfre

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #56 on: July 23, 2015, 06:34:05 pm »
capacitors which I have a feeling you do need to get the right way around.
Only electrolytic capacitors, Simon. With other capacitors it doesn't matter which way round.

Offline simon.bolton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #57 on: July 23, 2015, 07:24:09 pm »
Thanks Keith; a bit like life really! Alan, I'll try the battery. Will the resistor help with slow running at all?

Meanwhile, here's some pictures:

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Offline simon.bolton

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #58 on: July 24, 2015, 06:05:10 pm »
Woo hoo! Resistor in series, wires on, motor in place, it works! Soon it will be finished! Hurrah!

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(Obviously a wee bit of tidying up to do...)

Offline Dr Al

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Re: Tilbury Tanks
« Reply #59 on: July 24, 2015, 06:18:30 pm »
Is the motor shaft a suitable diameter to fit the Farish worm? Or is there an adaptor piece?

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

 

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