UV curing / activated adhesives, resins etc.

Started by Malcolm Hunt, July 13, 2017, 07:37:45 PM

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Malcolm Hunt

I was shown some amazing stuff at my club some weeks back. It's by JML, and seems to be the most expensive of its type. It's a tube of stuff that looks like clear glue, but when it comes out it's very manageable like quality model lube oil or perhaps super glue gel. The other end of its applicator though, has a small UV LED and when you shine this on the applied glue / resin that's what cures it. No solvent or odour, just very strong bonding that is benign on nearly all substances you want to stick. The mate who showed it to me first used it in a fashion college where he works (you should see his scratch built O gauge US trains though - superb doesn't cover it!)
Ok, preamble over. Who has tried this stuff? There's a few different ones out there and the JML seems the dearest, c£12.99, as opposed to £6.99 for another brand, all seem to be in 5ml tubes with the UV torch at the other end.
Any clues please?

The JML one:
https://www.jmldirect.com/at-home/home-accessories/lazer-bond-uv-activated-liquid-plastic-adhesive-and-filler/

The Visbella one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Visbella-5-Second-Fix-Liquid-Plastic-Welding-UV-Light-Cuting-Glue-Pen-Kit-Repair-and-Seal/817157_32695970012.html
How ironic that I choose N gauge after I start using reading glasses.
- Progression to prescription glasses has not dissuaded me either.

jrb

We use UV-curing adhesive at work for bonding glass-to-glass, and steel-to-glass. It's extremely strong stuff!

I can see some uses for it in modelmaking, but they're limited. Unless the item you're bonding is either really small, or transparent, then it's never going to cure properly as the UV light can't get to it. It'll only cure around the edge, the bit in the middle will never cure.

BobB

Is it strong enough and compatible with the plastic that Farish and Dapol use ?

Malcolm Hunt

Quote from: jrb on July 14, 2017, 10:48:15 AM
We use UV-curing adhesive at work for bonding glass-to-glass, and steel-to-glass. It's extremely strong stuff!

I can see some uses for it in modelmaking, but they're limited. Unless the item you're bonding is either really small, or transparent, then it's never going to cure properly as the UV light can't get to it. It'll only cure around the edge, the bit in the middle will never cure.
From what I can gather I make you right. I have a Minitrix 2-6-2T with a broken chassis base plate, and I hope it might be fixed by offering the parts together and putting a layer of UV glue on top then zapping it.
Also, where phospor-bronze wheel pickups have come away from another model's gear tower, hopefully the same could be done with a layer around where the drillings in the contacts are that locate on the raised plastic. It seems they are secured in the factory by melting some of the plastic moulding to larger than the hole in the pickup sheet.
How ironic that I choose N gauge after I start using reading glasses.
- Progression to prescription glasses has not dissuaded me either.

Malcolm Hunt

Thanks, @Only Me. That says I don't need to pay the JML price for some then. That's great.
How ironic that I choose N gauge after I start using reading glasses.
- Progression to prescription glasses has not dissuaded me either.

Malcolm Hunt

Quote from: LostBoy30A on July 14, 2017, 07:22:14 PM
Thanks, @Only Me. That says I don't need to pay the JML price for some then. That's great.
Btw, forgot to ask. Do you favour any particular brand, @Only Me?
How ironic that I choose N gauge after I start using reading glasses.
- Progression to prescription glasses has not dissuaded me either.

Safety Engineer

I bought mine off HOCHADA the TV channel, it's called Bondic. Mine came as two tubes with like oversize hypodermic needle ends plus a small UV LED button cell lamp. Trouble is I bought it a couple of years ago so can't say how much. The only thing I've used it for is repairing a small puncture in a stainless steel sink, which lasted as a temporary repair for at least two years until sink replaced. I applied several layers top and bottom and hardened each layer, seemed to work!

Note: Dentists use a similar product for some fillings.

Martin

Malcolm Hunt

Quote from: Safety Engineer on July 14, 2017, 09:04:31 PM
I bought mine off HOCHADA the TV channel, it's called Bondic. Mine came as two tubes with like oversize hypodermic needle ends plus a small UV LED button cell lamp. Trouble is I bought it a couple of years ago so can't say how much. The only thing I've used it for is repairing a small puncture in a stainless steel sink, which lasted as a temporary repair for at least two years until sink replaced. I applied several layers top and bottom and hardened each layer, seemed to work!

Note: Dentists use a similar product for some fillings.

Martin
It's about £12 these days, not the cheapest.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l2632.R3.TR4.TRC2.A0.H1.TRS0&_nkw=bondic&_sacat=3187
How ironic that I choose N gauge after I start using reading glasses.
- Progression to prescription glasses has not dissuaded me either.

Malcolm Hunt

So far so good so thanks all. Loctite also do a version for about a five - six quid.
How ironic that I choose N gauge after I start using reading glasses.
- Progression to prescription glasses has not dissuaded me either.

Malcolm Hunt

How ironic that I choose N gauge after I start using reading glasses.
- Progression to prescription glasses has not dissuaded me either.

dannyboy

David.
I used to be indecisive - now I'm not - I don't think.
If a friend seems distant, catch up with them.

RailGooner


dannyboy

I do not know how long a tube will last, but I have just ordered three more from the supplier in China, (with free postage!). I used the stuff the other night to glue some grain of wheat bulbs into a Metcalfe kit. The bulbs have almost clear sheathing on the wires - a couple of drops of glue followed by a few seconds of UV light and they are stuck fast to the 'ceiling'. I did not try too hard, but felt that if I pulled any harder, the cardboard would tear! As I said, good stuff.  :thumbsup:
David.
I used to be indecisive - now I'm not - I don't think.
If a friend seems distant, catch up with them.

Malcolm Hunt

Quote from: LostBoy30A on July 14, 2017, 01:06:14 PM
Quote from: jrb on July 14, 2017, 10:48:15 AM
We use UV-curing adhesive at work for bonding glass-to-glass, and steel-to-glass. It's extremely strong stuff!

I can see some uses for it in modelmaking, but they're limited. Unless the item you're bonding is either really small, or transparent, then it's never going to cure properly as the UV light can't get to it. It'll only cure around the edge, the bit in the middle will never cure.
From what I can gather I make you right. I have a Minitrix 2-6-2T with a broken chassis base plate, and I hope it might be fixed by offering the parts together and putting a layer of UV glue on top then zapping it.
Also, where phospor-bronze wheel pickups have come away from another model's gear tower, hopefully the same could be done with a layer around where the drillings in the contacts are that locate on the raised plastic. It seems they are secured in the factory by melting some of the plastic moulding to larger than the hole in the pickup sheet.
I have managed to achieve what I set out to do (See quote above), and the mend seems strong enough. I just have to put the rest back together and see if she'll run. I also had to file one of the end screw holes in towards the other end a tad, as it seemed tight and wanted to bend the plate back down again as it created compression inwards from the ends. This made me wonder if the plate was in fact a dodgy moulding from the factory which might have caused the problems in the first place.
How ironic that I choose N gauge after I start using reading glasses.
- Progression to prescription glasses has not dissuaded me either.

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