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Author Topic: The shed  (Read 1428 times)

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Online Webbo

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Re: The shed
« Reply #30 on: October 21, 2017, 10:58:42 am »
Les,

Seems to me that if you're going to build a hingeable board then it is going to have to have some sort of frame. In principle you could get away with two hinges on a 7' 4" long board particularly if it is structurally stiff. However, the more hinges the better (4 or even more) as these would help to minimise the distortion of the board when it is lifted. If you fasten a piece of timber horizontally along the vertical battens in your shed and attach the hinges to this beam, then this will help to stiffen the layout board.

I agree wholeheartedly with the comments about the need to take account of inflexible old backs when constructing a layout.

Webbo
« Last Edit: October 21, 2017, 11:31:48 am by Webbo »

Online Lawrence

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Re: The shed
« Reply #31 on: October 21, 2017, 11:06:22 am »
Hi Les

sorry to have caused you all these problems but I hope it will benefit you in the long run.

I would suggest you fit a beam, horizontally, to the wall where your layout will be attached.  To that beam, fix a couple of long piano style continuous hinges then fit your frame to the hinge, this 'step out' from the wall will allow the frame to move up without catching on the wall.
You can also attach a couple of hinged legs to the inside of the frame that will drop in place when the layout is down, but automatically fold back when you raise it.

Just make sure that when you fit your layout/beam to the wall that is going to be at a comfortable height for working at long term!

Offline first timer

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Re: The shed
« Reply #32 on: October 21, 2017, 11:48:21 am »
I,ve drawn a bit of a plan using 75mm x 75mm timber along the back wall and part the way down each side wall do I need to use such a big piece could I get away with 38 x 63mm and fit the T hinge on the front of the 63mm side and on the underneath of my base board? or shell I just build it high enough so I can sit on a small stool underneath it.

Les  :headbutt:

Offline daveg

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Re: The shed
« Reply #33 on: October 21, 2017, 05:32:11 pm »
I think deciding on a hinged board or not will very much depend on if you think you can spend, say 15-ish minutes under the board, working pretty much upside down!

I'm an 'agile' 70 year old (well, I will be on Sunday if all goes to plan!) and I find that 15 minutes is the max I can work that way under my L shaped layout.

If my plan was to be a single straight board, not an L or other shape, I would certainly go with a hinged option.

Good luck with whatever you decide and please keep us posted.

Dave G
« Last Edit: October 21, 2017, 06:07:36 pm by daveg, Reason: typo corrected »

Offline first timer

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Re: The shed
« Reply #34 on: October 21, 2017, 06:42:03 pm »
My layout is going to be simple, nothing fancy with loads of wire running everywhere it will be just 4 sets of wires connected to 2 twin controllers a double oval and a couple of sidings. I am going to run a part raised oval around the outside wired up indipendantly  so I can have two trains running at the same time. so hopefully will not spend too much time under layout. The points will be operated manuly.

Offline first timer

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Re: The shed
« Reply #35 on: October 29, 2017, 02:33:33 pm »
The shed is built, extra batons have been added and silver insulation has been fitted and sealed. Next is the hardboard then painted a light colour and then the frame along back and sides at 42ins high for the 9mm plywood base board to sit on. Still thinking about hinging the top but like I said before points will be manual and only 4 sets of wires will need to be fitted on the underside of the layout. Will keep you posted.

Les

Offline newportnobby

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Re: The shed
« Reply #36 on: October 29, 2017, 02:48:25 pm »
A couple of suggestions:-

Try and make curved or diagonal corners of the backscene as it looks far better than 90 degree scenery.

Make sure you drill holes in the battens under the baseboard to carry wiring before you fit the battens.

Offline The Q

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Re: The shed
« Reply #37 on: October 30, 2017, 09:58:08 am »
In fitting the hinges you need to allow for scenery on top of the layout so they need to be stepped out from the wall so when you lift the layout it doesn't hit anything.

Did I mention remembering to insulate the windows? using a second sheet of Plastic screwed to the inside or outside makes an amazing difference...
Allow larger holes for the screws than the screw body, plastic expands and contracts at a different rate than a wooden shed... or do a wooden frame to hold the plastic in place that allows for expansion.

Offline first timer

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Re: The shed
« Reply #38 on: October 30, 2017, 01:22:55 pm »
Thanks for the reminder Q already got an extra piece of Perspex to do the job but I,m a bit reluctant to how to cut it to size, so if anyone has any ideas please let me have them. Ive fitted the insulation but a lot of it is fitted to the batons on the shed plus the extra ones I fitted so when I fit the hardboard on top theres not going to be much of a gap but theres a good gap between the shed walls and the insulation. Should this still  do the trick?

Les.


Online dannyboy

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Re: The shed
« Reply #39 on: October 30, 2017, 08:11:02 pm »
Re the perspex. I have seen it cut with an electric jigsaw, I suppose any fine toothed saw would do. I have also seen it cut like you would a piece of glass - score a line against a straight edge and the put matchsticks or similar under the score line and apply a bit of pressure.
David.
I used to be indecisive - now I'm not - I don't think.

Offline The Q

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Re: The shed
« Reply #40 on: October 31, 2017, 07:32:53 am »
Cutting perspex with a jig saw you have to be careful.
 There are proper perspex blades available, normal blades that have teeth that stick out each side of the centreline make the perspex vibrate then Split (guess how I know). If you are going to cut perspex, clamp it both sides along the cut line with wood Above and below). So the pespex cuts but doesn't vibrate. Or better still sacrifice some plywood, completely cover the perspex in ply top and bottom and cut through the three layers.
 I would advise looking at a few perspex cutting videos on the net.

 Similarly there are perspex /plastic drills if you wish to make a hole or two, standard drills are too aggressive, they pull the drill bit through the plastic, forcing it apart and causing splits...

The insulation seems to be the best you can do, all you can to is cover it and try it...

 I got both my perspex / acrylic drill bits and jig saw blades via the house of the strong ladies...

Offline newportnobby

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Re: The shed
« Reply #41 on: October 31, 2017, 09:30:13 am »

 I got both my perspex / acrylic drill bits and jig saw blades via the house of the strong ladies...

I just know I'm going to kick myself for asking but.......... ???

Online BlythPower

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Re: The shed
« Reply #42 on: October 31, 2017, 10:23:50 am »

 I got both my perspex / acrylic drill bits and jig saw blades via the house of the strong ladies...

I just know I'm going to kick myself for asking but.......... ???

It took me a while... They're legendary Greek ladies with a sideline in large South American rivers.  ;)

Offline tutenkhamunsleeping

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Re: The shed
« Reply #43 on: October 31, 2017, 10:25:39 am »

 I got both my perspex / acrylic drill bits and jig saw blades via the house of the strong ladies...

I just know I'm going to kick myself for asking but.......... ???

Have you asked Alexa? :D

Offline first timer

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Re: The shed
« Reply #44 on: October 31, 2017, 12:06:39 pm »
I,ve got a strong lady thanks, perhaps she could cut my Perspex !!!!!!!!!!

 

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