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Author Topic: Wood for baseboard  (Read 1604 times)

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Offline funnysunny365

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Wood for baseboard
« on: March 01, 2017, 01:28:40 pm »
 :hellosign:
I am starting a model railway and I need a baseboard for it. What wood is the best wood to make a medium-sized model railway?
 :helpneededsign:
Thanks.
HO is too big, and Z is too small.

-funnysunny365

Online njee20

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Re: Wood for baseboard
« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2017, 01:33:10 pm »
Another question you'll never get consensus on. Exterior/marine/WBP plywood is my preference for the tops, using softwood timber frame. All purchased from a timber merchant (if you're in the Home Counties then Champion Timber is excellent), not a DIY chain.

Offline Claude Dreyfus

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Re: Wood for baseboard
« Reply #2 on: March 01, 2017, 01:34:02 pm »
I use plywood (4mm to 6mm depending on the size of the board), reinforced with 2x1 battens.
« Last Edit: March 01, 2017, 02:03:00 pm by Claude Dreyfus, Reason: Predictive text! »

Online ntpntpntp

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Re: Wood for baseboard
« Reply #3 on: March 01, 2017, 01:49:17 pm »
I use 9mm exterior grade ply to create the sides and ends of a box, with occasional softwood cross-bracing  as required. Height of the sides enough to allow for scenic features which rise above the track datum, and enough space below for point motors etc.   

Same 9mm ply used horizontally on top of the cross-bracing to support the track and structures and roads etc., but leaving as much as possible open framed to allow for scenery to drop below the track datum.  Sides of the box then cut away to create scenic contours. 
Nick.   2016 celebrating the 20th anniversary of "Königshafen" exhibition layout!

Online austinbob

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Re: Wood for baseboard
« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2017, 01:57:03 pm »
9 mm ply with softwood frame and bracing is my choice also. Produces very flat an sturdy surface for track and resultant structure not too heavy. Slight disadvantage if you want to pin track - best to drill pilot holes for pins and put pins in with small punch.
 :beers:
Size matters - especially if you don't have a lot of space - and N gauge is the answer!

Bob Austin

Online ntpntpntp

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Re: Wood for baseboard
« Reply #5 on: March 01, 2017, 02:14:00 pm »
[9mm ply] Slight disadvantage if you want to pin track - best to drill pilot holes for pins and put pins in with small punch.

Not normally a problem for me as I glue track (on cork sheet on top of the ply) rather than pin it. 

If I do pin track (eg in hidden areas or fiddle yard) I use Hornby track pins and a punch, having pre-drilled the sleepers.
Nick.   2016 celebrating the 20th anniversary of "Königshafen" exhibition layout!

Online njee20

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Re: Wood for baseboard
« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2017, 02:38:06 pm »
Which is exactly what Bob said...

+1 for gluing, mind. 

Online ntpntpntp

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Re: Wood for baseboard
« Reply #7 on: March 01, 2017, 03:06:32 pm »
Which is exactly what Bob said...
I read bob's comment as pre-drilling pilot holes in the plywood rather than the sleepers, but anyway...
Nick.   2016 celebrating the 20th anniversary of "Königshafen" exhibition layout!

Offline thetigers123

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Re: Wood for baseboard
« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2017, 03:07:01 pm »
Daft question but im building a baseboard soon and was wondering do you need to plan for points etc before you put the brace bars in as you cant put points through the thickness of the wood?

Offline Sprintex

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Re: Wood for baseboard
« Reply #9 on: March 01, 2017, 03:20:34 pm »
Not daft at all, and yes if you're using under-board motors then plan your track first just in case you have to rethink where the bracing will go :thumbsup:


Paul

Offline Carmont

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Re: Wood for baseboard
« Reply #10 on: March 01, 2017, 03:21:25 pm »
6 or 9mm top here, and 5 or 6mm for the supporting box (no softwood battens)

Cross bracing is 5 or 6mm ply again.

Track is helb with copydex and then when ballasted......it won't move!

Offline Carmont

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Re: Wood for baseboard
« Reply #11 on: March 01, 2017, 03:22:40 pm »
Daft question but im building a baseboard soon and was wondering do you need to plan for points etc before you put the brace bars in as you cant put points through the thickness of the wood?

If you are going to use under board turnout control, then yes you will need to take that into account when designing the board, or the layout, whichever way round you work....

Offline DCCDave

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Re: Wood for baseboard
« Reply #12 on: March 01, 2017, 03:28:51 pm »
Another vote for 9mm marine ply for the surface of the board. I use 9 mm MDF for the frame, about 100 mm deep to accommodate point motors an other electrical gubbins. I'd also recommended Champion Timber, I've used their Guildford branch for supply and cutting and the service was excellent.

Pictures of my assembled boards:







Cheers
Dave
« Last Edit: March 01, 2017, 03:31:09 pm by DCCDave, Reason: Missed a link »

Offline Nick

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Re: Wood for baseboard
« Reply #13 on: March 01, 2017, 05:19:51 pm »
Daft question but im building a baseboard soon and was wondering do you need to plan for points etc before you put the brace bars in as you cant put points through the thickness of the wood?
Not just points. Anything that will penetrate the surface - track feeds, signals, lighting, etc. Plus room for any underboard electronics and connections. CDUs, DCC accessory decoders, lighting controllers, etc. They don't get smaller because you're modelling in N not OO. Particularly relevant if you're planning a small layout, where things will be close together.

I only really  planned properly for points in the layout I'm building , so other things have got through on  a wing and a prayer :-[ . The wings are starting to look moth-eaten now, and I need a new string of rosary beads or a prayer wheel, I think.

No need to obsess, just think things through in outline. What you're definitely doing, and what be on the "might be nice later" list.
« Last Edit: March 01, 2017, 05:21:37 pm by Nick »
Nick

The perfect is the enemy of the good - Voltaire

Online newportnobby

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Re: Wood for baseboard
« Reply #14 on: March 01, 2017, 08:22:17 pm »
@funnysunny365
@thetigers123

Have a read of this as there is a section on baseboard construction which may help............
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=35556.msg416494#msg416494

I'd avoid buying softwood timber from DIY sheds as it is very rarely straight. Not only do you need to locate where your points go before siting the cross braces, but you need to drill holes in the cross braces before fitting them as this allows you to thread the wiring through them.

 

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