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Author Topic: Starting out in N Gauge  (Read 210 times)

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Offline Takamine

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Starting out in N Gauge
« on: December 06, 2017, 02:50:07 pm »
Hi

After months of research, reading and then ending up this great forum, am about to take the plunge as it were. At the recent Warley show I (hopefully wisely) invested in the Flying Scotsman pack with coaches, an assortment of Peco code 80 flex track and setback curves to mess around with and a Zephyr 51 (decided on after lengthy review of whats available) and DCC decoder.

First eye site test was fitting said DCC decoder and then trying to recouple drive shaft between tender and loco - thankfully all done with no issues.

I have spent many hours on RailModeller Pro (for Mac) and have finally come out with a layout that I am comfortable with (borrowed from the Peco 60 plans Book with some changes). Went through all the standard pitfalls like too much, then too little, then unsure etc. Have looked at all the great advise re circular vs end to end I feel this provides a bit of both in a sense. Keep it simple (ish), keep it flat, keep it interesting to a point and most of all enjoy.

As I am fairly technical and have no issue with electrics, design etc, I have elected to use up to date tech  - DCC, DCC CD for points, eloectrofrog etc. Will be using Peco code 55.


I would really appreciate views on layout and comment before diving in with my first build. I hope the attachment is there - new to this forum and its technology.


Offline RailGooner

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Re: Starting out in N Gauge
« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2017, 03:21:48 pm »
Hi Takamine and welcome aboard! :wave:

Afraid I can't comment on your track plan as local (work) policies prevent me from downloading.
Per Ardua ad Astra | Mens Agitat Molem | Victoria Concordia Crescit

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Offline Takamine

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Re: Starting out in N Gauge
« Reply #2 on: December 06, 2017, 03:27:58 pm »
Thank you for the welcome!!

Should have also mentioned space constraints so have fitted into 1600 x 800 cm (Im decimal) and it should be rotated clockwise when downloaded i.e. turntable on the right. Hopefully portable enough too!!

Offline newportnobby

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Re: Starting out in N Gauge
« Reply #3 on: December 06, 2017, 03:34:49 pm »
Hi Takamine, and welcome to the forum :wave:
The main thing to remember with UK outline stuff is we drive on the left. Therefore of the two main ovals the outer travels in a clockwise direction. It is worth running an imaginary train round the plan to see if you have sited points where they are best needed. Usually goods sheds/yards have trains reversed into them so a headshunt may be required to do this. It is unusual to have a situation where a loco is 'locked' against the buffers (except in station termini).
Personally I would say 1600mm x 800mm is a bit unwieldy and, dependent on the baseboard construction, may prove very heavy too.

Offline Ditape

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Re: Starting out in N Gauge
« Reply #4 on: December 06, 2017, 03:45:03 pm »
 :hellosign: :welcomesign:

Your plan looks OK, but it is to crammed with track for my taste.
Diane Tape



Online port perran

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Re: Starting out in N Gauge
« Reply #5 on: December 06, 2017, 03:51:16 pm »
Welcome to the forum.
Overall, yes, I agree with NNís comments. The baseboard size is ok as long as you arenít moving it very often. If itís relatively permanent you should be ok. Remember though that if itís against a wall 800mm is a long way to reach over.
Also, you mention Code 80 at the start then Code 55 in the last paragraph, might be worth mentioning that whilst it is ok to join the two, you will notice a small height difference.
It's you railway so build it as you want and run whatever you like. The only rule is - ENJOY :
My Layouts -
Port Perran:- Trepol Bay:-

Offline Takamine

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Re: Starting out in N Gauge
« Reply #6 on: December 06, 2017, 04:18:22 pm »
Many thanks for the welcome and feedback!!

A couple points that I may not have been clear on!!

1. Will be using code 55 through out - stuff I bought was just to fiddle with (but thanks for the heads up!!)
2. Layout may be a bit busy but want to have opportunity to work on scenery and it gives (I feel) a bit of everything? Its my first so will learn the hard way  :worried: There is quite a lot of space to fill (each square is 10cm for reference) - I added the long siding simply as a place to put store a rake of coaches - they get rather long
3. Will be largely in one place with all round access but needs to be relatively portable - will be 9mm ply with cork layer (I think). I have considered making base into sections - may still consider this. I have tried to go smaller but with point dimensions almost impossible but for the most basic layout - maybe being over ambitious. Movement will be storage (vertical against a wall) to flat for use.
4. Not having much experience, I have taken note of clockwise movement etc and (in my opinion) am ok with this for the moment - but noted

I have to say that using design software (once mastered) has been a he help in getting to where I am now.

Thanks again for all the feedback!!

Offline newportnobby

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Re: Starting out in N Gauge
« Reply #7 on: December 06, 2017, 04:35:19 pm »
Sadly lack of space tends to push people into using set track points which many small and large steam locos (regardless of Farish or Dapol) won't like for differing reasons. Purists would say to use the large code 55 points in all scenic areas but you can get away with code 55 small points which, being 12" radius curve, will cause no problems at all.
The only other thing I'd mention is that, and here I'm calling the kettle black, is try not to slavishly follow the baseboard edges with straight track. Things will look a lot less like a 'train set' if you can put even the shallowest of curves into the long straights.

Offline Takamine

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Re: Starting out in N Gauge
« Reply #8 on: December 06, 2017, 04:45:11 pm »
Thanks NN

I am hoping that the point-work along the front will detract from the long straight syndrome. The back section has a proposed station and I have tried to keep curve radius as big as possible given the size:

Inner 263.5mm
Middle 306.4mm
Outer 333.4mm

Most pints are small code 55 with a few large - good to hear that these should all be OK

But noted with thanks  :)

Offline Train Waiting

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Re: Starting out in N Gauge
« Reply #9 on: December 06, 2017, 04:57:30 pm »
Welcome Aboard!

Your 'flat, simple and fun' design philosophy sounds good to me.

This might help you (it was written by a very experienced and helpful member of the Forum - who has already replied on your thread).

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=35556.msg416493#msg416493

As 'Flying Scotsman' is a big engine, you might like to give a bit of thought to the radii of your curves.  Bigger radii tend to make trains run better and look more realistic.

With all best wishes.

John
'Why does the Disney Castle work so well?  Because it borrows from reality without ever slipping into it.'

(Acknowledgement: John Goodall Esq, Architectural Editor, 'Country Life'.)

Offline Takamine

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Re: Starting out in N Gauge
« Reply #10 on: December 06, 2017, 05:30:54 pm »
Thank you John

I have indeed read the beginners section but thank you for pointing this out!

The Scotsman was bought on the spur of the moment at Warley (as was everything else)! A very nice Dapol with lit carriages - have tested on no 2 radius (minimum recommended) and all good. One day when I have space for a permanent layout where I can hopefully go a lot bigger but space does not allow at the moment.

If necessary I could always downscale on loco size and store or sell the Scotsman but have become rather attached so am likely to keep. At this point I have an affinity to steam locos.

I have read so much good information and have literally spent months getting this far! I am at the point where I need to start somewhere as one can overthink this and end up going nowhere at all! Time to take the plunge and worst case scenario is build something that I may need to dismantle and start again  :confused2: I guess we all started somewhere and learn.......

There is one finite and that is space.....

Fortunately once track layout is done it can be used and satisfaction rating established before moving on - the more expensive bits can be reused if treated with care.

Many thanks for the input

BR
Chris

 

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