New to N base boards

Started by koimaster, July 22, 2017, 02:38:27 PM

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koimaster

Need advice on best base board, would like 900mm width thinking of 1200mm long adding sections as time allows.What is the best way to join sections together to ensure good alignment of track and electrics DCC

Newportnobby

I've used these guys and found their prices are reasonable and the service was great for the toggle latches and bullet dowels I bought (see baseboard fittings).
http://www.stationroadbaseboards.co.uk

For connections between boards I've used pluggable choc block............
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Way-Pluggable-Terminal-Strip-CN179/dp/B0071KZE30

ntpntpntp

Have always used these pattern maker's dowels for alignment, for the past 20+ years.   I've tried the "bullet" type of dowels but much prefer these.  They require a 25mm / 1 inch inset in the baseboard frame where edges meet.



Available from various sources, including
https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=3895&name=pattern-makers-dowels-1in-dia-2-pairs
Nick.   2021 celebrating the 25th anniversary of "Königshafen" exhibition layout!
https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=50050.0

Yet_Another

Yep, I've used pattern makers' dowels, and although a bit fiddly to set up, they are pretty much bomb proof. Brass ones are available from the company in NPN's link.
Tony

'...things are not done by those who sit down to count the cost of every thought and act.' - Sir Daniel Gooch of IKB

Portpatrick

I have used bullet style on Portpatrick Town.  After 10 years of home and show use, I have never had any problem with alignment.  Probably less fiddly and quicker to fit than pattern makers.  The boards are held together with toggle catches.  For Allanbrae, my new/second payout, I purchased the 2 boards from PSL.  These have pattern makers fitted.  Clearly they will be fine.  I was provided with bolts for holding them together though I have replaced ordinary nuts with wingnuts as the layout is portable (quicker to do up and undo).

ntpntpntp

#5
Quote from: Yet_Another on July 22, 2017, 04:41:25 PM
Yep, I've used pattern makers' dowels, and although a bit fiddly to set up, they are pretty much bomb proof. Brass ones are available from the company in NPN's link.

Noticed there are brass versions available never tried them, I'm guessing they'll be a bit softer than the cast steel. Fine for home use but for my exhibition layout modules I think I'll stick with steel.

I don't find them fiddly to set up.   

1) Clamp the ends together aligned as you want them (Usually I do this with just the end pieces BEFORE assembling the board)
2) Drill a pilot hole straight through both pieces, making sure it's perpendicular to the wood!
3) unclamp, and drill out the inserts using a 1" bit to a depth of 4mm ish (deep enough for the dowel plate)
4) for the female half, drill a deeper hole with an 8mm bit, deep enough to give clearance for the male dowel when inserted.
5) Tap in the male and female parts, and secure with screws (usually provided). Make sure the screws are flush.

In the example below, the dowels are probably a bit lower than I would normally mount them, it's because I always try and line up the dowels at the same height as the securing bolt holes. The bolts are lower on these boards due to the proximity of point motors etc. to the edge of the board.


Nick.   2021 celebrating the 25th anniversary of "Königshafen" exhibition layout!
https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=50050.0

colpatben

Brass pattern makers dowels for me. Do not forget that you will need to use a 1inch bit to make the location hole as a 25mm one will be too small!



Plug in choc block as NPN suggests and overcentre catches.


We never have problems, only solutions!

Current DCC Project

Involved in Bexhill West to Crowhurst

Now Sold Ensbourne

Colin

Yet_Another

The thing with a lot of this personal experience is 'it depends'.

I've used brass pattern makers' dowels from Station Road, and a 25mm drill bit was fine, but perhaps I was being too finicky about getting the depth right, and having to mess around with a chisel to make the inner surface flat - but then, I was doing it all freehand in the living room.

I bolt mine together with T nuts and wing bolts - one less thing to get lost.
Tony

'...things are not done by those who sit down to count the cost of every thought and act.' - Sir Daniel Gooch of IKB

stevewalker

#8
No need to chisel to get a flat bottom to the recess. You need a Forstner bit - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit#Forstner_bits - but need to drill the end pieces of your baseboard before assembly.

The Q


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